R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-24-2007, 09:04 PM   #181
Tech Elite
 
MadHacker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Grande Prairie, Alberta
Posts: 3,462
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to MadHacker
Default

I haven't tried it yet, but apparently they fit with NO mods.
__________________
Gregg "MadHacker" Messenger
RC Pro - 37G
MadHacker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2007, 09:08 PM   #182
Tech Elite
 
MadHacker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Grande Prairie, Alberta
Posts: 3,462
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to MadHacker
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by soup54
NEED to use m10x16x5 bearing on alum cup output shaft instead of stock hellfire bearing m8x16x5

was in a hurry last night so I left the savage out drive cup on alum case side, funny it still fit...maybe we can use the HD diff outdrives from the savage too?
This is what was noted by "Soup54" when he installed the Savage aluminum diff cups...

I guess a guy could use shims if the stock m8 bearing is a bit too narrow (instead of using an m10 bearing).
__________________
Gregg "MadHacker" Messenger
RC Pro - 37G

Last edited by MadHacker; 05-24-2007 at 09:31 PM.
MadHacker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2007, 01:21 PM   #183
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 34
Default

The o-rings in question earlier in the thread for the diffs are Kyosho P6 orange o-rings I believe. Here is a link to them.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/4016

The m10x16x5 bearing measurements are 10= inside diameter of bearing, 16= outside diameter of bearing, 5= thickness of bearing.
The hellfire plastic diff cup uses a m8x16x5 bearing so you will need to get m10x16x5 bearings to fit the HPI Savage X SS alum. diff case output shaft, the stock hellfire bearings will not fit as they have a smaller inside diameter that fits the plastic diff cup of the hellfire. No shimming of the bearings is necessary unless there is gear slop/play back and forth after the diff is assembled, it really is pretty easy to do the HPI X SS alum. diffs. They come with great directions and pictures to help you out and the shimming in the directions takes a heck of alot of the play out. It shure is a improvemnt over stock.

If that is not strong enough for you I have read that you can upgrade to the LSP-R diffs that are hardend and heli cut ring and pinion gears, but this mod is some what expensive (kyosho P6 o-rings, 3 sets of spider gears, 2 pinion gears, 2 ring gears, 3 sets of Savage X SS alum. diff houseing = $124.95+ shipping). Now that would be a good investment in my opinion if you keep blowing the diffs and are a serious racer.
p-gears--- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJBM4&P=M
r-gear--- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJBM3&P=M
spider gears--- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLGV5&P=M
X SS alum. diff houseing---
http://www.smfstore.com/product_info...oducts_id=1372

Here is the set up without alum case ready to go out of the box for f/r
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJBF6&P=V
you should be able to just drop this right in and go to the races.
NOTE it will lower your gear ratio for less top end--more low end punch.(hellfire gears are 42 and 10t and the lsp-r are 43 and 10t)

I found the steering problem, my servo saver was extremely loose. I reset the tension on the spring higher and it seems to fix my problem.

On the issue of the carbon fiber parts I am just going to leave it alone since I really don't need to loose the wieght for racing and I mainly bash my trucks, what can I say...I just love playing in rough stuff!!

Last edited by soup54; 05-27-2007 at 05:43 PM.
soup54 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2007, 08:47 PM   #184
Tech Elite
 
MadHacker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Grande Prairie, Alberta
Posts: 3,462
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to MadHacker
Default

Thanks for all the info Soup!
__________________
Gregg "MadHacker" Messenger
RC Pro - 37G
MadHacker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2007, 08:54 PM   #185
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 34
Default

no prob! thought I'd clear up some of my late night gibberish!!
soup54 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2007, 09:03 PM   #186
Tech Elite
 
MadHacker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Grande Prairie, Alberta
Posts: 3,462
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to MadHacker
Default

I switched to Werks 30% race blend fuel today. I really had to lean out the B7 Pro (both high and low needles) to get it to run, but it still runs cool! This is very different fuel than what I'm used to (for tuning)! Will try a jug and will let you all know if it's worth the extra cost. I used to run Sidewinder Race (30% Nitro 12% oil), just for reference.
__________________
Gregg "MadHacker" Messenger
RC Pro - 37G
MadHacker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2007, 09:33 PM   #187
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 34
Default

Down here in Texas I'm useing 20% (axial) 30% (sts d30m) Rocket Science Race Fuel...it's a local Texas brew, it runs pretty cool but I hear so many good things about O'Donnels that I think I'm gonna have to check it out.
Oh-yeah changeing fuels really sucks some times, the differences in the contents (oil %) can play havoc on needle settings. That is what I experienced on the sts d30m, but then again it has a really picky carb (really small sweet spot)!!

I haven't run any really top end motors before so any suggestions for a good strong motor for the hf? Not really into the raceing scene yet so I'm open to .21's or up that can make my truggy scoot and jump, that is not going to be totally uncontrolable.

Thanks for the input in advance!
soup54 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2007, 01:08 PM   #188
Tech Elite
 
MadHacker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Grande Prairie, Alberta
Posts: 3,462
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to MadHacker
Default

If you're not highly competetive in racing, the Axial .28 would be a very good choice for the Hellfire. The only reason it wouldn't be good for competetive racing is due to the increased fuel consumption compared to a .21.

If you want a good racing engine, the Werks .21 B7 Pro is excellent. I've been very impressed with mine thus far. The only thing I've noticed is that this engine doesn't like oil content higher than 12% (in other words, it seems to be built for "race" blend fuel).
__________________
Gregg "MadHacker" Messenger
RC Pro - 37G

Last edited by MadHacker; 05-31-2007 at 10:19 PM.
MadHacker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2007, 06:48 PM   #189
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Hartland Wi
Posts: 141
Default

Gregg...speaking of fuel consumption...how much run time are you getting out of a tank. Im running a OS 21RG...13t clutch bell...and running on fumes after 5 minutes.
Fast Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2007, 10:07 PM   #190
Tech Elite
 
MadHacker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Grande Prairie, Alberta
Posts: 3,462
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to MadHacker
Default

I'm running the Werks .21 B7 Pro, using a 14t CB. I haven't actually gotten out a stop watch and timed it yet, but I know that I'm in the 9 minutes per tank range. I'll try and remember to time it next time I take it out for a burn.
__________________
Gregg "MadHacker" Messenger
RC Pro - 37G

Last edited by MadHacker; 06-01-2007 at 10:21 PM.
MadHacker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2007, 08:12 PM   #191
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 34
Default

Yeah your right, I think I'll just pick up another Axial 28, but try the rr version in a few months when the price comes down.
soup54 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2007, 03:01 PM   #192
Tech Apprentice
 
MikeWz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Wenham, Mass/Hauppauge, NY
Posts: 88
Send a message via AIM to MikeWz
Default

Soup - Make sure both your front toe linkeages are the same length. If one is longer than the other, you're going to have more turn-in one way than the other.

As for the diffs blowing out, are you guys running the SS or the RTR (if there's even a difference in the diffs at all)? I just picked up an SS kit and have an Axial .28 and JP-3. Looking to race it soon, and I really don't want to have to deal with diffs blowing out. Rather not get aluminum cases either as that's a lot of extra weight, and this truck is Heavy
MikeWz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2007, 11:32 AM   #193
Tech Elite
 
MadHacker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Grande Prairie, Alberta
Posts: 3,462
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to MadHacker
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MadHacker View Post
After I assembled the diff inside the case... I noticed the pinion and ring gear mesh are a little rough because they're meshed slightly tight. There really isn't any room for adjustment with these diff cases, they're designed to not allow any slop... I hope the pinion and ring break in and run smoother than they do now.
Update... the pinion and ring in the diffs broke in nicely, and run very smooth now. No issues here.
MadHacker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2007, 11:34 AM   #194
Tech Elite
 
MadHacker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Grande Prairie, Alberta
Posts: 3,462
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to MadHacker
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeWz View Post
Soup - Make sure both your front toe linkeages are the same length. If one is longer than the other, you're going to have more turn-in one way than the other.

As for the diffs blowing out, are you guys running the SS or the RTR (if there's even a difference in the diffs at all)? I just picked up an SS kit and have an Axial .28 and JP-3. Looking to race it soon, and I really don't want to have to deal with diffs blowing out. Rather not get aluminum cases either as that's a lot of extra weight, and this truck is Heavy
I'm running the SS kit. I haven't blown a diff yet, but I noticed with the guys who did... there's a common point with each blown diff... they wiped out hard prior to the diff cratering.
MadHacker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2007, 11:49 AM   #195
Tech Elite
 
MadHacker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Grande Prairie, Alberta
Posts: 3,462
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to MadHacker
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by WheelNut View Post
MadHacker also mentioned that most the parts on the truck didn't like up with the holes in the chassis!
Yes, I had to do a little bit of "part flexing" to get the parts mounted to the upper deck to meet up with the holes in the lower deck. The steering servo mount was the worst. It really wasn't a big deal, but I think HPI could have done a wee bit more refining so that these things lined up perfectly.

Did anyone else who built the Hellfire kit notice this?
MadHacker is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
How long do you take to build your kits... or8ital Electric On-Road 30 06-12-2008 07:16 AM
Hellfire pinion gear 10t how long it last? xxx123 Nitro Off-Road 1 05-05-2008 11:34 PM
Thunder Tiger ST-1 long term test... Sylvain Nitro Off-Road 3 03-11-2008 04:28 AM
Monster GT Long Term Test Sylvain Monster Trucks 0 03-07-2008 03:37 AM
Long term engine storage Xero Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 6 01-28-2005 03:39 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:51 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net