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Old 05-24-2008, 09:42 PM   #1426
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Josh, I will see you at the Pro Series race tomorrow. A group of us from Monroe have decided to drive up in the morning. Do you have any CEN shirts laying around in a XXL??? I can't seem to get my hands on one.

Thanks and see you soon
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Old 05-25-2008, 06:55 AM   #1427
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Clean the screws and threads with denatured alcohol or regular rubbing alcohol then use red loctite. After you get them as tight as you can with a hex driver take and align wrench and tighten them about 1/8 more if you can. When you want to get them out heat the aluminum with a heat gun and they will come loose pretty easy. Just be careful not to melt the plastic. We had the same problem at first but haven’t since. Also be careful not to get any of the loctite in the CVD’s. We clean it all up with Q-tips.
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Old 05-25-2008, 02:46 PM   #1428
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Thanks Mcran, the blue loctite does not work for me on those screws. The bottum ones are fine with the blue IDK. I have another question I have been using the 2t 3s rear block and I think that another 1 may be better on my track. It is I would say medium traction bumpy and gets watered down between heats. I only have that block f I were to buy 1 what should I get. And does anybody have an extra they would be willing to sell?
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Old 05-25-2008, 10:10 PM   #1429
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Yea I don’t like using red loctite on anything but the blue didn’t work for us either on those screws. We also use the red loctite on the throttle linkage set screws and that is it as far as I can remember. Every where else is blue if we need it. Just don’t forget to heat up the aluminum or you may strip or break something trying to get those screws loose with the red lock tight.

The 2t3s should make the truck rotate better on throttle but if the track is really bumpy you may want and try less anti-squat. That will allow the truck to go through the bumps better on throttle but it may also give too much rear traction on throttle and cause the truck to start pushing. Setup can get tricky so it’s hard to say. Try the 2t2s.
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Last edited by Mcran; 05-26-2008 at 07:26 AM.
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Old 05-25-2008, 10:33 PM   #1430
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What about the 3t2s? Or the I guess the stock rtr plastic one. Oh yeah I am using the bumpy set up sheet that came with it.
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Old 05-26-2008, 08:17 AM   #1431
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3T2S will greatly stabilize the TR and make the rear stick but more toe-in also makes the difference between sticking and breaking loose bigger.

More anti-squat: Will give the car more steering while braking, and also a little more powering out of corners. On high-traction tracks, it may feel as if the car momentarily has more rear traction accelerating out of corners. A car with more anti-squat can also jump a little higher and further, and it will soak up bumps a little better, “off-power”. A lot of anti-squat (4° or more) can make the car spin out in turns, and make the rear end break loose when accelerating.

Less anti-squat: Will gives more rear traction while accelerating on a slippery or dusty track. It also gives more side-bite. Less anti-squat will make the car accelerate better and faster through bumpy sections. Very little anti-squat (0° or 1°) makes the rear end feel very stable. It also makes power sliding a lot easier.

The stock RTR plastic brace is 3.2T-2.7S I believe.


http://www.cenracing.com/race/setup.html
Click on setup guide at the bottom of the page.



http://www.cenracing.com/race/pic/genesetup07.pdf

This setup from Gene works well every where. We run the stock front sway-bar and run the front shocks in the center hole on the front arms. You can use Losi 60wt in the front shocks and Losi 40wt in the rear and this will equal what’s listed. Stock chassis braces without cutting them down. We also use the stock plastic caster blocks with the aluminum spindles. 13T clutch bell if you use a .21. Pro-line LPR Crime Fighters front and Bowtie rear or Holeshots F/R 0 off-set. This should give you a really good starting setup on the TR.
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Old 05-26-2008, 08:58 AM   #1432
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I run that same set up except I run AE 60wt fr and AE 35wt rear. Same holes on the shocks I never cut my chasis braces, but I am currently running crimefighter mtr's on 1/2 offsets. I am going to be getting a set of 0 offsets in the near future. Overall I am very happy with my set up I am working on buying some parts to lighten up a bit. Because I am going to a .21 soon. Like I have most of Genes parts, advantage brakes, plastic diffcases are on the way. Just going to the advantage discs I have noticed that it spools up a bit quicker, and the plastic diffcases will ad to that. Just doing those 2 things lightens up the TR around 6 ounces thats alot. So I will be I guess putting the 2t 2s block on my wish list. Whats the name of that othe company who makes I belive the carbon fiber parts for the TR?
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Old 05-26-2008, 10:08 AM   #1433
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The first round of the WI Pro Series race was yesterday at Northern Hobbies (Greenbay area). Aric Seffrood from Monticello WI finished 4th with his TR and I finished 7th in the Truggy "A" main.

Josh: Your new ride looks sweet. I can't believe how light it is with the BCE chasis and aluminum upgrades. Mine feels like a brick with four wheels compared to yours.
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Old 05-26-2008, 08:35 PM   #1434
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Hey anyone ever use those Dynamite max life alum shoes? With the stock flywheel and clutchbell.
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Old 05-27-2008, 04:23 AM   #1435
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Thanks Nino. It is amazing what the BCE chassis does for the CEN TR. I would suggest it to anyone who wants to take their racing to the next level.

Malik - I never ran the Dynamite shoes put I know a couple people who have and they didnt have very good luck with them. I guess they are brittle. So if you do use them be careful putting them on and taking them off.
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Old 05-27-2008, 05:09 AM   #1436
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TripleX-JT +1 on the BCE Chassis.

I've never used the Dynamite shoes but from what I've heard they last a very long time. Sound's like they may be so hard that it makes them brittle. Probably don't grab the clutch bell as good either.
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Old 05-27-2008, 07:01 AM   #1437
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I want to try some different shoes but I am happy with the stock flywheel and bell. What shoes have you guys run without incident? I haveheard that people had some compatability issues with some. How about the mugen shoes? I use Mugen springs now.
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Old 05-27-2008, 07:17 AM   #1438
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try m2c long lasting and they are super smooth
m2cracing.com
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Old 05-27-2008, 08:09 AM   #1439
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Malik,

The mugen shoes and springs work great. Perfect fit.
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Old 05-27-2008, 06:46 PM   #1440
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Try using M2C Racing shoes, if you use a .21 on your truggy the m2c 3 shoes are very good, but if you are racing .25+ engine size i found the 4 shoe system from m2c being better and taking advantage better of the extra torque of big engines ...

cya,
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