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Old 05-13-2008, 01:32 PM   #1381
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Iíve never used an aluminum servo horn with a plastic adaptor. I would get an all aluminum when you can and just make sure the servo saver is set correct. Not saying that the plastic would fail but I wouldn't chance it. Justin has had some really hard crashes and never had any servo problems yet, knock on wood.

What temp gauge, engine, head? And who modded the engine? Is 140 Fahrenheit or Celsius? Normally when the engine starts to run on itís because the engine is getting a little to hot or the idle needs to be set a little lower. We start by richening up the HNS & LNS a couple hours.
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Old 05-13-2008, 03:07 PM   #1382
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Mcran I am sorry I didnt notice I wrote 140 I meant 240. The mill is a SH 6 port prospec .28 I had a stage 1 from AB mods done on it. Like I said never noticed it before. I was reading earlier and noticed that alot of pro's use slower transit time servos and or analog servos for the throttle. I am using a Kopropo PDS-2343 which is digital 111 oz torque and .8 transit. Could that be a bad set up? I will try to get outside tomorrow and start it up, how will I know richening both needles alittle and lowering the idle worked without hitting jumps? And you said richen 2 hours each both high and low? And I use the Duratrax blue temp guage.
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Old 05-13-2008, 08:58 PM   #1383
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Default engine mounts

I read that the stock engine mounts can crack the engine case of some big block motors such as the novarossi. Has anybody had this problem. As I'm running a novarossi N528X do I need to get some new mounts or has Cen fixed this problem. Thanks for your input.
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Old 05-14-2008, 09:44 AM   #1384
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Default Shock resivor

I asked this question already, but did'nt get info on them. Are the Cen shock resivor somethung I should do.

http://www.cenracing.com/newproduct/newshock.html
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Old 05-14-2008, 09:50 AM   #1385
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Originally Posted by Stimey131 View Post
I asked this question already, but did'nt get info on them. Are the Cen shock resivor somethung I should do.

http://www.cenracing.com/newproduct/newshock.html
yes i would it will make it alot better on big jumps all in all better in everything

get them!
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Old 05-14-2008, 09:52 AM   #1386
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I asked this question already, but did'nt get info on them. Are the Cen shock resivor somethung I should do.

http://www.cenracing.com/newproduct/newshock.html
I would say its more beneficial on the buggy. In the truggy i would run the stock shocks IMO.
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Old 05-14-2008, 09:57 AM   #1387
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I asked this question already, but did'nt get info on them. Are the Cen shock resivor somethung I should do.

http://www.cenracing.com/newproduct/newshock.html
If you run at bumpy tracks with big jumps then I think it is worth the upgrade.

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Old 05-14-2008, 02:35 PM   #1388
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I just put my new hobbico CS-170 and re adjusted the servo saver. Anybody ever had problems with it loosening up by itself? Any fixes?
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Old 05-14-2008, 02:45 PM   #1389
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I just put my new hobbico CS-170 and re adjusted the servo saver. Anybody ever had problems with it loosening up by itself? Any fixes?
That used to happen to me all the time with my CEN. I put a small wire-tie under the servo saver so that it couldn't back out.
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Old 05-14-2008, 03:05 PM   #1390
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drop of super glue will do the trick as well.
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Old 05-14-2008, 03:11 PM   #1391
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Old 05-14-2008, 04:34 PM   #1392
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A wire tie, thats a good idea thanks everybody. Mcran still could use some words of wisdom on my other issues couldnt take it outside today its raining.
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Old 05-15-2008, 11:43 AM   #1393
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Iíve noticed on some modded engines that they like to run on more than the stock version. Itís hard to say without tuning the engine myself because there are so many variables. I would start with richening the bottom up and see how it does once itís up to temp. Iíve also seen some engine mods that were not so good and caused these type problems. Not saying itís the engine mod because I donít know anything about AB Mods. 90% of all the engine issues Iíve had ended up being a bad front bearing sucking air. The bearing will look fine but that doesnít mean itís not sucking air. Go to your local track and find someone that really knows engine tuning and see if they will help you out. I had a stock V-Spec doing the same thing and once I changed the front bearing the engine run great.

For the stock engine mounts you can use a grinder and shave about 2mm off the inside of both mounts or get Geneís Blue engine mounts. Just make sure on the stock mounts that when you tighten them up everything is squared up with the engine and chassis and not in a bind.
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Old 05-15-2008, 05:39 PM   #1394
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After further investigation I noticed that my bearings were blown in the clutch. I never blew them before what symptoms will that give me.
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Old 05-15-2008, 06:23 PM   #1395
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If your truggy is on the starter box then you crank the engine the tire will drive as well. ALso when on the track if evry time you hit the brakes it stalls thats a tell tail sign,
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