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Old 11-12-2007, 03:44 PM   #931
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CEN makes the A-main at the RC Pro International Finals.

http://www.rclive.com
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Old 11-12-2007, 06:34 PM   #932
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That a boy Gene

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Old 11-18-2007, 04:25 PM   #933
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Default Stripped My nuts!

I have just stripped the 1.5mm nut that locks the pin on the 23mm hexes. Any idea how to get this out?

If I kill the cvd in the process of trying to get the nut out, drilling, do you know if the front cvds will work in the back? I have an extra set of front cvds.
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Old 11-18-2007, 04:26 PM   #934
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a drill and a small ez out.. .. IE screw extractor..
also if the allen key still grabs a little.. clean the the set screw well.. with a pic or something.. then heat with a pen torch.. Heat gun .. or lighter.. then try to remove .... ....

if its totally blown out the extractor is your only way...
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Old 11-19-2007, 08:10 AM   #935
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what kind of tool are you using on it? if your using a good high end hex driver (not a ball driver either), then you are going to have to get creative, but if you using an allen key or a ball driver, its more than likely just the allen key isn't perfectly sized, or is rounded a bit, and I would be willing to bet a good square faced hex driver would take it out no problem,

also if you are using a good hex driver, make sure the tip isn't rounded a bit, if it is you can use a dremel tool to square the end up again, and just be really careful not to totally fubar the screw, using heat is also a good tip because I assume you stripped it because its got a pound of loctite on it holding it in, so if you melt that and then try and take it out it will make it alot easier,
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Old 11-19-2007, 10:12 AM   #936
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Put a longer grub screw back in, it will not strip and hold much better. I do that with my EDS/Hudy tools also.
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Old 11-22-2007, 02:57 AM   #937
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Default Steering rod & other Questions

Guys.

First of all, I'd like to give an advance thanks to everyone for all the little bits that they've talked about. I've finally, after weeks of waiting, got my FRE built and running with an OS 30VG. I'm running Sanwa MX3 radio gear with a hitec steel servo for the steering.

I have a couple questions though.

First of all, when I was running the engine in, I managed to errr... "rub" the shed and broke the steering servo arm and bent the 3x40 steering rod. Is there an upgrade for this part, Gene maybe you are the best one to answer that? I've replaced the servo arm with another plastic one, but I've noticed that a number of people have red aluminium parts instead. Are these CEN parts or just Al parts from other brands.

The other one is I noticed some mentions about the fact that on the rear, when using the smaller rod end that the dogbone pops out. I played around with it and found that on the suggested settings for the FRE that it did indeed fall out, so I replaced them with the longer rod ends. What sort of impact does this have on handling?

A friend of mine has the Losi 8ight-T and I've had a play with that. I've noticed that it turns on a dime, and my FRE doesn't seem to turn as quickly. I am using 4x1.2V NiMH batteries and someone suggested to me that because its 4.8 rather than 6, that it will slow the response down. Is there any way, with my radio, or with the truggy itself, to increase the rate of steering so it steers much faster?

Thanks again for your help, and hopefully someone can help me with these ones.
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Old 11-22-2007, 08:54 AM   #938
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thorin View Post
Guys.

First of all, I'd like to give an advance thanks to everyone for all the little bits that they've talked about. I've finally, after weeks of waiting, got my FRE built and running with an OS 30VG. I'm running Sanwa MX3 radio gear with a hitec steel servo for the steering.

I have a couple questions though.

First of all, when I was running the engine in, I managed to errr... "rub" the shed and broke the steering servo arm and bent the 3x40 steering rod. Is there an upgrade for this part, Gene maybe you are the best one to answer that? I've replaced the servo arm with another plastic one, but I've noticed that a number of people have red aluminium parts instead. Are these CEN parts or just Al parts from other brands.

The other one is I noticed some mentions about the fact that on the rear, when using the smaller rod end that the dogbone pops out. I played around with it and found that on the suggested settings for the FRE that it did indeed fall out, so I replaced them with the longer rod ends. What sort of impact does this have on handling?

A friend of mine has the Losi 8ight-T and I've had a play with that. I've noticed that it turns on a dime, and my FRE doesn't seem to turn as quickly. I am using 4x1.2V NiMH batteries and someone suggested to me that because its 4.8 rather than 6, that it will slow the response down. Is there any way, with my radio, or with the truggy itself, to increase the rate of steering so it steers much faster?

Thanks again for your help, and hopefully someone can help me with these ones.
CEN sells the hop-up part and Gene has stronger turnbuckles.

I'm not 100% percent sure on this.

You need to use a 6v, 5 cell RX pack to get the full benefit from your servos.
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Old 11-22-2007, 11:37 AM   #939
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CENs complete line of hop-ups
http://headrushhobbies.com/estore.as...pgrade%20Parts
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Old 11-25-2007, 11:25 PM   #940
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Thanks for the advice. I went out and got a hump pack, as the call them here, and it has increased the servo response and speed. Unfortunately i stripped about 10 teeth from one of the metal gears on my hitech 645 metal servo. No biggy, i'll get some replacements.

I've been having huge issues with the LHS and getting a straight answer on wheels and tyres. I bought what I believe were proline 40 series wheels and they were hitting on the lower control arm when i was steering. I've since put the matrix rims on the front with some proline crimefighters, but something is still really wrong.

Someone suggested Proline Maxx 23mm 1/2 offset rims, but I am not certain on tires.

Can someone give me the skinny on exactly what wheels and tyre combo I should be using. I want to make sure I have max steering too, not limited like the old prolines i had.

Thanks for the help guys. I managed to pop the wrong dogbone out when using the short shock ends with the upper outter on the top, and the middle setting on the bottom. Was this just a freak thing to happen? I have used the long shock ends on the back and changed the settings after reading some people were having issues, but I haven't seen anyone mention the front popping out?

Regards,
Jase

Oh one last thing. I can get fuel from the LHS, but I have been told about someone that offers a special fuel down at the local track. I've been told its still 25% nitromethane, which is what I am using now, but they rekon its got extra additives for better engine longevity and protection. Good idea or not. Is there something I should be looking for when I look at this fuel to know if its good or bad? A number of guys use it at the track and they say its great, but I am weary not knowing exactly what is in it.
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Old 11-26-2007, 07:45 AM   #941
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Until the new shorter arms come out, always use the outer lower hole in the tower and the inner hole on the arm.

I run pro-line 1/2" offset wheels. If you want to use non offset, I recommend using the STR steering rod ends with washers on top because they always pop off.
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Old 11-26-2007, 10:57 AM   #942
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the 23mm 40 serires wheels are offered in a few offsets... You are really better off without the 40 series as they really add alot of unsprung wieght..
if you are adament on running them you need the rims that the hub is centered in the wheel I believe proline calls these zero offset..... the Revo offset wheels will not work and will rub severely!!. that may be what you have they look like they are about 3/8 of an inch offset from the outside of the wheel.....

I run pro line 1/2 and 0 offset standard 23mm wheels and get some rub with the Hiem joint. the kyosho or mugen offset hiems would fix this..same ones Gene has mentioned.. however I havent had breakage been running since april of this year on a heavy race schedule... I dremeled away a bit.. until wheel was free I have the Mugen offsets.. incase of failure but havent had to use them yet... The 0 offsets are the only wheels to rub...and I rarely run them but one track around here is really tight..

As far as blowing out the servo this may have been due to the tires .. but it is of utmost importance to have your EPA ( end point or Travel ) adjustments set... I was tought to do it this way:
Turn on your radio.. adjust EPA to 50% on both R and L.. Turn on car on bench so tires are off the ground and at full down travel.. adjust R epa until full steering is acheived.. once acheived full steering. go 2 clicks in the opposite direction to relieve the servo.. ... Do the same for the L side and you are ready to roll...
Also and related the servo saver becomes worthless if its too tight.. you want it to relieve stress but not be week.. this is best adjusted at the track setting it loose and making it tighter until you have the steering you desire... !!!
Hope some of this is Usefull..
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Old 11-26-2007, 11:38 AM   #943
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I dont know if the 40 series are different, but I know standard size you want 1/2 offset, this puts the hex in the middle of the wheel, zero offset puts the hex basically flush with the outside face of the rim,
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Old 11-26-2007, 01:12 PM   #944
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I'm not really adament about using the 40 series, if thats actually what I have. As I said I am new to this, and unfortunately went on the advice of my LHS guy, although he wasn't the normal car fellow, so maybe he was just confused.

The rims I have just seem far too wide, or dont have the correct offset. Thats why the steering was limited. At any rate, these are the tyres and rims I have been looking at. Can someone please confirm that this is what I need to get?

Wheels:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/3264

Tires:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/3261

I just don't want to get the wrong ones again.

The other thing is, and again it's probably related to my tire/wheel combo. When under throttle, the tire really suffers from centrifugal force; it gets to be more narrow in width and much much higher profile in the center of the tire. Someone mentioned that I can increase the stiffness by putting duct tape or material tape (100 mile hour tape) on the inside of the tire before I glue it. True?

How do I stop this from happening. I know its normal, but I don't think the amount of bulge that I am getting is quite right.

Robert: the EPA is one of the first things I adjusted. I did have a bit of a stack that bent one of the front shock shafts, I am thinking that impact had a considerable effect on the servo. But both the throttle and steering EPA has been adjusted, and when testing on the bench, the servo saver doesn't seem to be working overtime.

Thanks, Jase
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Old 11-26-2007, 01:54 PM   #945
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Those are the rims you want, but get these tires:

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