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Old 07-28-2007, 06:57 AM   #706
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Originally Posted by sir miles View Post
Does the CNC knuckles comes standard with the TR FTE?
No.

Has anyone put the buggy servo tray on the TR? Or the braces?
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Old 07-28-2007, 10:09 AM   #707
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I have been having trouble with bubbles in my fuel line. I just did a rebuild and put in a brand new tank and new fuel line and still have air in the line. The bubbles are in the line before and after the fuel filter. Any ideas?
Anybody have any experience with this?
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Old 07-29-2007, 02:59 PM   #708
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Slay:
If all is replaced and the tubing is new.. not just some stuff you had laying around.. The only thing I can think of at this time would be to try Zip tying all your connections... If that doesnt solve the problem. I am not sure where to point you...

If the tubing was older but not used it may have dry rotted..... o9r been punctured somehow..
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Old 07-29-2007, 05:14 PM   #709
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Thanks for the advice. I am anal about fuel lines and change it pretty much every time I clean up the truck. I think I'll swap out the fuel filter at this point. It's the only thing I havnt changed yet. I heard some of the tanks had bad lids. Maybe I got 2 in a row? It really is making it impossible to keep a good tune.
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Old 07-30-2007, 01:10 PM   #710
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Take out the fuel filter and recheck. Filters cause air bubbles in the lines.
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Old 07-30-2007, 03:15 PM   #711
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Slaytanic, I'm in the ame boat, I'm on my second tank too, still air bubbles. Tried it without the filter, no luck. I have zip tied all fuel lines, no luck.
Personally, I believe it's the tank, where the fuel inlet goes into the tank, it turns and runs down to the bottom where the stone filter is. Somewhere in that line is a ho
le or something, maybe a seam not sealing.
Only cure I've found is using the tank off my st-r, no air bubbles with that. It's almost a drop in switch, only the overflow drain is on the other end of tank. I modified the st-r mount so I could use tubing to run the overflow off the chassis.
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Old 07-30-2007, 07:13 PM   #712
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it could be 1 of the o-rings on the lid also. I have had a few that start leaking. Plug the hose to the carb and blow into the pressure hose. If you hear or feel air going through the top of the lid, then that is the problem.
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Old 07-30-2007, 07:28 PM   #713
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Originally Posted by Machine's R/C H View Post
it could be 1 of the o-rings on the lid also. I have had a few that start leaking. Plug the hose to the carb and blow into the pressure hose. If you hear or feel air going through the top of the lid, then that is the problem.
Gene I put a spring off a Jammin fuel tank on my Cen tank an the Cen tank is the shit now. The Cen spring is like a .90 clutch spring an the Jammin is like a 1.1 clutch spring. The tank seals off perfect now an I don't have to push the lid close any more.

Guys if ya have any old tank laying around switch out the springs with the Cen tank, you will be happy
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Old 07-30-2007, 11:36 PM   #714
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Default RC bodyworks lid

Few pics of the new lid (well not quite new anymore since I raced last weekend and finished 8th cuz my receiver battery went flat)

I can also tell RB 928 pulls really hard with 14T bell

http://www.snrt.net/ARENA/bodyworks1.jpg

http://www.snrt.net/ARENA/bodyworks2.jpg

Also found out that when shifting from .21 to .28 the blue springs at rear were too soft. I should have changed them for the A-final but but was too lazy I guess to do it since I raced also Matrix buggy on the same day. Blue springs worked well with RB .21 and jumped nicely a bit nose up. With RB 928 front wheels were off the ground too much.
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Old 07-31-2007, 07:40 AM   #715
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Thanks for the tips guys. I'm gonna try taking out the filter and see if thats the issue. If that dont do it than I'll take a closer look at the tank.
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Old 07-31-2007, 08:36 AM   #716
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8 Cen trucks and buggys make the pro A-mains at round 2 of the RC Pro East Series and take TQ and 1st.

http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/news...p?storyid=2623
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Old 07-31-2007, 03:25 PM   #717
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The CNC Servo Saver arm is back in stock.

MXS41
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Old 08-07-2007, 03:41 PM   #718
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Right now I`m running Gene`s set up amost to the T but I dont run the front sway bar. I`m thinking of trying the 2 deg. rear toe plate to help it rotate. Not that it needs to rotate more but always looking at making it better. I think I may need to put the front bar back on to keep the front from being too agressive. Just wondering who as tried it and how did it work for you?

Thanks
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Old 08-08-2007, 05:54 AM   #719
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If I use the Cen diff cross-pin conversion, do I have to use the plastic diff case??

Rreg posted this earlier...is this a good place to start? What is everyone running with the pins?
80wght up front (lsd), 7-10 center, and 2-3 rear

Thanks
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Old 08-08-2007, 06:37 AM   #720
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ildvr.
If you use the cen kit you will need the plastic diff cups.. Genes kit will work with either cup..

I ran the lsd up front.. the numbers gene recommended where
80wght up front lsd
10,000 to 15,000 when using front lsd. ,, in the center..
3-5000 in the rear..

with out the front lsd..it was
7, 20, and 3

hope this helps..

The truck is way more stable on loose stuff...
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