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Old 05-01-2007, 02:16 AM   #406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rregl0612
If you went from running carbons to aluminum shoes on the same bell that could very well be the problem...
No, everything used on the TR Arena was brand new.

Thanks though.
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Old 05-01-2007, 05:32 AM   #407
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Originally Posted by Machine's R/C H
Justin, Don is the one of the ones having a problem. I think his spur gear is worn out and that is why his gear mesh sounded like a coffe maker even with a new bell. He nosed dived on throttle on the 40 foot double in Alabama the 1st 6 laps in a row during the A-main event.


The CEN bell has long teeth so that the gear mesh will line up with any engine and still make contact even with chassis flex. Why does having the bearing inset bother you lockmouth?
And what problem was your friend having? I have been using only Cen bells since August of last year with no problems until the Alabama race. If there is a problem, I want to know about it so that it can be fixed. I don't think there is one, but I just want to make sure since 2 guys in the last week have complained to me.

Last year I found the Hardened CB's to wear out on the fast side, but I've never stripped one,
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Old 05-01-2007, 06:13 AM   #408
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There is no need to shim the bearings. Just put the regular shims in front of the bearings as with any other clutch bell. I usually use 1 thin shim against the nut and 2-3 against the screw washer on my Mega's. The upper shock mount washer fits perfect for the end of the crank screw also.


I talked to one of the guys having the problem with breaking teeth off his truck and found out he was using Kyosho and RMV bells when it happened, not CEN bells. I have not had any problems with bells in my truck, and on the buggy, they wear fast but have never stripped out or broken except that 1 time last week. So I guess this is not a common problem, more of a fluke.

One thing that is a problem on the truck is the servo saver. I asked CEN to make the lower arm alum also last year, but they have not done it yet. So, there is 2 fixes for it.

1. Make an alum ring that slides over the lower saver arm. That holds it together and keeps it from cracking. Kyle Sokol made one and has been using it for the last 6 months with no problems.

2. Use the Jammin CRT servo saver post and plastics. It fits perfect after grinding off the nob on the lower arm and will never break. It's a cheap fix, about $25. I have been using the same one for a year now.
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Old 05-01-2007, 07:09 AM   #409
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I would love to see an aluminum lower servo saver arm, thats got a bend in it similar to the way the MBX5T arms are, to let us get even more steering throw without binding on the steering link, I'm in the process of modeling some parts up in solid works, to try some ideas, the only problem is I dont have any way of making them currently, I also have to do it at night after work,
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Old 05-01-2007, 07:33 PM   #410
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I have broke the upper servo saver arm. Once I upgrade the upper to aluminum, is the lower arm likely to break?
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Old 05-02-2007, 07:57 AM   #411
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It can on the truck. It works perfect for the buggy, but the extra weight of the truck causes the lower to break. I've been waiting for the alum since Sept of last year, right after the alum upper came out.
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Old 05-02-2007, 11:18 AM   #412
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The only time I stipped the gears off one of the hardened clutchbells is when I used a Kingheadz EZ Change engine mount(not the extended one).

What happened was the kingheadz mount uses a 4mm screw and a 4mm nut to hold the engine mount in place, but the only thing really holding the engine mount is the compression between the screw and the nut.

So at a recent demo event I launched my TR repeatedly over some huge 8ft ramp that launched my truck 20 ft in the air. And it was after a few landings the gear mesh worked loose and killed my clutch bell.

Love the kingheadz mount cuz its so beefy, but I went back to the stock engine mounts for now.

As for clutch, I am using the 1.0 springs with the blue shoes. Gold springs don't suit my driving. A majority of the people prefer the gold springs and blue shoes with the trucks though.
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Old 05-02-2007, 03:15 PM   #413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s5lin
As for clutch, I am using the 1.0 springs with the blue shoes. Gold springs don't suit my driving. A majority of the people prefer the gold springs and blue shoes with the trucks though.
Your using the 1.0 spring on the TR Arena?

Just asking because I think that maybe this would be better for me as well.
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Old 05-02-2007, 03:32 PM   #414
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im using the 1.0 springs and they work fine
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Old 05-02-2007, 04:22 PM   #415
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It's only because I'm a crappy driver I use the 1.0.

I have a bad habit of grabbing too much throttle sometimes so the 1.0 springs save me from looking too bad. Just about every other person I know with the TR uses the 1.1 springs and prefer it. Just experiment and see which one you like more.
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Old 05-02-2007, 09:24 PM   #416
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i run the 1.0 cuase it seems they last longer for me then then gold ones (1.1) but they feel really nice running them i put them on for big weekend events
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Old 05-03-2007, 07:04 AM   #417
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a little off topic but I just painted a new shell for my tr
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Old 05-03-2007, 07:07 AM   #418
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the body looks nice but the truck dont look like a tr
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Old 05-03-2007, 07:08 AM   #419
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its a frankentr
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Old 05-03-2007, 08:01 AM   #420
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That TR looks pretty cool actually.

I see it has an front upper arms the Hong Nor truck, but the shocks and springs I can't tell.

But the truck definitely looks good. Nice TR!!
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