outtafocus

iTrader: (12)

Does any one have a measurement from hinge pin to hinge pin on the new shorter rear arms?

I just installed a set of rear arms I picked up from CENDirect, and my rear drive shafts are barely sitting inside the diff out drives.If my arms moves upward even 1/2 an inch the bone pops out.

This is also with very severe negative camber, just to get the bone inside.

Doesnt make much sense because even if this is the old style rear arm, the bone should still be deep enough in the outdrive to stay in there at ride height.

The bones i picked up from ebay but were from a parted out RTR truck. I am using the buggy rear axles but they dont change the position of the bone. The diff is stock plastic diff with cross pins and CEN outdrives.

Any suggestions?

Robert.Hull

iTrader: (11)

on the hub carrier there are 3 holes one side has 2 and one said has one make sure you have it on the lower hole on the side that has two

outtafocus

iTrader: (12)

Yep thats where it is, lower hole outside.
If it were on the inside hole I would need a 1 inch longer drive shaft.

Also, stock CEN moulded rear carrier.

Tabushi

iTrader: (1)

Race Report : August 23th and 24th - 2008

Event : 8th Stage of the 2008 Chilean Offroad National Championship

Classes : 1/8th IFMAR Buggy and 1/8th Truggy

Track : XRC Racing Hobby - Chile

Practice Session : During the practices i managed to setup my buggy and truggy very good giving me a good amount of confidence over the race. This is my first race in my country after a couple of years and the hobby has evolved in a good way, so the competition its very fierce with a lot of fast drivers. The track its very technical with just a few spots to do passing moves.

Qualifying and Semifinals : I ended on the slowest group of the event in buggy and truggy, due to the fact that the qualy groups are pre-assigned based on your last stage result, and this was my first event in Chile this year so i ended on the last/slowest group. Being such a technical track with no wide sections, this became a problem due to the slow traffic so i did my best to qualify the best i could. In Buggy, ended the qualification process in 6th position overall, thats mean 3rd place on the B-Semifinal (IFMAR Tree system, same as used in worlds). And in Truggy on 4th place overall. In Buggy, during the semifinals i had some mechanical problems and when i was in 3rd position (only the first 5 go to the finals) i had to call the day, very sad. In truggy i managed to go to finals, starting in 2nd position.

Finals : Truggy class its something new for me, and i was amazed about how good the CEN Truggy goes. My GO .25 engine + EFRA 2047 GO Pipe gave me confidence to race hard on this one, 30 minutes finals. I did a very good start securing 2nd position from the beggining, but after couple mistakes i was in 4th-5th position by mid race. After my 3rd pit pass, i started to climb positions and got secured again in 2nd position. So, great end in 2nd position and very happy with the track and engine combo, only bad part was tyre selection, i think other choice would be better suited for the track, i used Bowties on qualies and wanted to test Losi's ones that went very good on practice, but ended giving me a loose rear end during finals.

Here you have couple pics, and a video that a friend did of my truck (pink one).










Video : http://revver.com/video/1134837/8th-...-championship/




Equipment used in Buggy : GO .21 5 ports 6.5mm restrictor - GO 2047 Pipe - VP PRO 803 Tyres - OS P3 Plug - Power Save Racing Air Filters - VP PRO Wing - VP PRO 3 Shoe Clutch System - Maxy's Fuel 30%

Equipment used in Truggy : GO .25 6 ports 7mm restrictor - GO 2047 Pipe - Proline Bowties on qualies, Losi XTT's on finals - Novarossi C4 plug - VP PRO Airfilters - M2C Racing 4 shoe clutch system - Maxy's Fuel 30%

cya guys !!, hope to do it better next time !!!

chrobar

Well that just doesn't make sense. Are you sure that the carriers are not flipped around? The CVDs are the right ones? I don't get it..maybe some pics?
I don't have anything wrong with the rear CVDs. Are the outdrives you run the right ones? Maybe they're really worn/shaved to look new?

outtafocus

iTrader: (12)

Well, much to my own disapointment I have found the cause of my rear drive problem.

I am actually converting an extra buggy kit I had sitting around and was using what ever parts I could from that. I built the buggy diffs and used the buggy outdrives.
I have just realized that the TR uses a longer outdrive. Damn, now I need to go order more parts and start the diffs all over again.

Thanks for the help guys.

chrobar

Great job at the race Pato! Kind of a slow pit man though. Nice nonetheless!

chrobar

"Well there's your problem!" LOL. It's always risky trying to build a truggy with buggy parts not meant for a truggy.

DeastyBoy

iTrader: (2)

Dude...Give me a call...I'm sure I've got some you can buy/borrow until you get your own/spares....

outtafocus

iTrader: (12)

Instead of ordering the proper CEN outdrives I have decided to use parts I had on hand.

I didnt want to turn the truck into a Kyosho, but I made this work.
Kyosho Rear uprights/carriers and ST-R universals, this setup puts the drive bone deep into the Matrix buggy outdrive and requires no other mods, except to drill out the universal axle to accept the CEN pin. The Kyosho 17mm hubs will work perfect no mods.

I used the ST-R universal because thats what I had, but the ST-RR light weight ones would be ideal. Both are the same length.

Tree

iTrader: (8)

Well I finally got my BCE chassis TR Arena together.

TripleX-JT

iTrader: (1)

Looking good. How do you like the bead locks and have you ever had a problem with them. Also what brand are they.

Mcran

What center drives are those and can you give me the part numbers for the front and rear? Thanks, Mario.

lockmouth

iTrader: (33)

Mario, those drive shafts are the same one I was testing at the Futaba Race last year when I let Justin run my truck. They are Kyosho, the rear one is to long , but the front one fits perfect. I bent the rear one because it fit to far in the drive cup. You will need to shave the rear one flat and you should be ok. I'm liking the center aluminum dog bone with the light weigth center cups When the pins start showing any wear, I replace the pins with the mugen pins I'm all good again. They seem to last forever

PS. Have you seen the picture of the new buggy??

http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/xcga....php?album=136

KYOIFW308

KYOISW052

Tree

iTrader: (8)

I like the beadlocks but they are a bit heavy to use for racing They are made by Maximizer. I have been sending Maximizer several e-mails to convince them that they should make a beadlock wheel to accept the LPR and 38 series tires. They said they might consider it.

the center/front universal is I am using is for the Kyosho buggy

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/3989

The center/rear is for the Kyosho St-RR

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/14808

I think the problem with the Kyosho ST-RR universal binding with the BCE chassis conversion is due to the fact the the Hot Bodies beveled pinion gear is too long. I am using Kyosho ST-RR diffs and I haven's had a problem with binding or bending. I haven't really push the truggy that hard with the BCE conversion yet but I will definatley let you know if I do have a problem.