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Old 03-02-2007, 06:03 PM   #151
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good job at the Nitro Challenge Gene. So what setup did you run at the race? did you use the mod for chassi flex you mentioned above? What tires did you run for this race?
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Old 03-05-2007, 01:55 PM   #152
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Default CEN Racing Wins Again!!!

At the RC Pro East Series Round 1 last weekend, I lead the 1st 20 minutes of the Pro Buggy A-main until my engine mounts screws came loose and I stripped my clutch bell.

I also lead most of the race and won 1/8 Pro Arena Truck with the CEN Matrix TR Arena.

Kyle Sokol made both A-mains with the CEN Matrix Pro & TR Arena also.

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Old 03-05-2007, 01:58 PM   #153
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I ran Hole Shots in buggy and Truggy.

Mugen 700 cps in the front sahock with #1 pistons
CEN 30wt in the rear with #2 pistons. Inside on arms and outer lower on towers.

7,000/15,000/3,000 cps in the diffs with my cross pins.

Rear hubs forward. shortest rear camber link. Lower hole on the front upper A-arm. Grind them at a 45' angle and use the outer hole in the ackerman plate. No front sway bar. 17mm hubs with Proline 1/2" offset wheels.
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Old 03-05-2007, 06:21 PM   #154
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Gene, what type of 17mm hex drives are you using with your TR? We will be running at our home track starting in June at night. I am thinking Holeshots for buggy and truggy. They should hook up awsome with the moisture coming back into the dirt.
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Old 03-05-2007, 06:40 PM   #155
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I just built my truck with Trinity 60wt oil in the front, with the #1 piston, and shock positions from your losi champs set up, and the front seems crazy stiff, and slow to react, is it supposed to be like that, or is the trinity oil just too thick compared to the 600cps stuff? It doens't seem right, but if its suppsoed to be that stiff I will try it, I am tempted to go to something like 80wt with the #2 though, the #1 just seems to be giving it way to much pack,
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Old 03-06-2007, 10:05 AM   #156
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I am now using Mugen 700. It is close to Losi 60wt. It should be just stiff enough to keep the front from bottoming out on a 1 foot drop. Make sure you are using the inner hole on the arm and the outer lower hole on the tower.
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Old 03-06-2007, 10:35 AM   #157
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you can use any 17 mm hex you just might have to shim it to fit i would suggest the matrix 17mm and then go from there
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Old 03-06-2007, 04:41 PM   #158
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Default Problem in my build up

I have the truggy assembled everything went together well...

the question I have is after assembling going through a final check I noticed that the nuts to the ackerman plate that hold on to the steering rods rub on the upper arm when at full droop... I have adjusted my stops to relieve the problem... its only a few mm's if more than one mm.

is this a design flaw or a build error.. I noticed all setups stated that they were running full droop...

Thoughts or concerns welcome
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Old 03-06-2007, 08:35 PM   #159
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well this has happened to other people and i think its just about checking it good cause i built mine and i have NOT one problem with it hitting.....but if that was your first build thatn it might just be a little mistake
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Old 03-07-2007, 05:09 AM   #160
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definately not my first build... im gunna have to tear it down and investigate
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Old 03-07-2007, 05:17 AM   #161
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flip it around so the nut is on the bottom, I had that problem too, it also depends what hole youve got the upper arm in too,
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Old 03-07-2007, 09:21 AM   #162
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yea put front upper arms in the top hole
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Old 03-07-2007, 09:26 AM   #163
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Use a button head screw and put the nut on the bottom.
For more steering, use the lower hole for the arm and use the rear ackerman hole. Grind down the upper arm at a 45' angle like you do on the Xray XB8 3D plate.
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Old 03-07-2007, 08:04 PM   #164
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thanks for the helpful info guys... I will be takin her out for the maiden voyage soon probly next week... just need a set of rubbers...
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Old 03-07-2007, 09:32 PM   #165
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what kind.....the stock ones???
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