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Old 06-19-2008, 11:52 AM   #1531
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I cant get on there.
Oh yeah, I forgot....you have to sign-up. It's painless.

Good site too...
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Old 06-19-2008, 09:08 PM   #1532
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I did sign up have a while ago and cant ever get nothing besides an error page to come up, but it lets me log in though. On another note I got the chassis today from Triplex and it barely looks used and the buggy guards are genious. I swapped everything out and all went smoothly and both bodies fit very well, I can see me using the airhose alot less now. I think I had slightly bent my chassis a while ago even know lookng at it I cant tell, because after I had a few hard hits I started actually exploding cb bearings. I tried many different brands and prices of bearings trying to figure out what the deal was and I hope I fixed it today. Thanks Triple
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Old 06-21-2008, 06:10 PM   #1533
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Ok this is frustrating, at the track today with the new chassis fom TripleX still after 2 5 minute qualifiers I blew my front clutch bearing. Now that I know its not the chassis and cant be my mesh because I have made it tight med and loose. I also have tried like 5 different brands of bearings at least. And I clean the grease out and use Acer Sin oil. and have tried it putting new bearings in with the stock grease IDK. Anyone have any help for me, it would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 06-22-2008, 05:00 AM   #1534
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Ok this is frustrating, at the track today with the new chassis fom TripleX still after 2 5 minute qualifiers I blew my front clutch bearing. Now that I know its not the chassis and cant be my mesh because I have made it tight med and loose. I also have tried like 5 different brands of bearings at least. And I clean the grease out and use Acer Sin oil. and have tried it putting new bearings in with the stock grease IDK. Anyone have any help for me, it would be greatly appreciated.
The only other thing I can think of would be end play. Check to make sure the clutch bell does not move back and forth on the crank. You may need to add a washer behind the flywheel. Good luck!!
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Old 06-22-2008, 08:45 AM   #1535
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The only other thing I can think of would be end play. Check to make sure the clutch bell does not move back and forth on the crank. You may need to add a washer behind the flywheel. Good luck!!
You actually need some clearance for the clutch bearings. You want the bell to move .5 - 1mm front to back.

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Old 06-22-2008, 11:04 AM   #1536
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I am running the Cen flywheel and mugen shoes and bell. The Cen bells need tons of shims the mugen doesn need any it hapens less with the Mugen bell and more since I went to alum shoes IDK.
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Old 06-22-2008, 11:33 AM   #1537
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I've used CEN bells and OFNA bells without problem, only bearing problem i got was during first race and found that my engine was not 100% parallel to the chassis, once i straight it out, no more bearing failure ...

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Old 06-22-2008, 12:27 PM   #1538
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You actually need some clearance for the clutch bearings. You want the bell to move .5 - 1mm front to back.

Colin
Thats correct,, you want some play but not a lot. To much and bearings will go quick. Sounds like that may not be his issue though.
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Old 06-22-2008, 03:55 PM   #1539
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My spurgear looks fine but I do have a spare, is that worth trying? I Just pulled the motor and plates to trim the shoes back alittle and I dont see anything wrong, except there was quite bit of material that needed trimmed back. Could that be an issue? It is my 1st alum clutch.
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Old 06-22-2008, 04:42 PM   #1540
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I am running the Cen flywheel and mugen shoes and bell. The Cen bells need tons of shims the mugen doesn need any it hapens less with the Mugen bell and more since I went to alum shoes IDK.
apart from a misalignment of bell and spur gear and assuming the clutch shoes and flywheel have been correctly fitted, the only reason i could see for blowing front clutch bearings would be incorrect shimming / bell attachment. I use the cen flywheel and supplied collet, blue ali shoes and gold springs and either the cen vented bell, the reckward tuning bell or the Kfactory bell. I only ever have had to run one .3mm shim between the flywheel and rear clutch bearing and one .3mm shim between the front bearing and the fixing nut (along with that tiny shim/washer that comes with the clutch shoes). You should be able to free spin the bell without any binding and little to no play between the bell and the front bearing. I have used ceramic bearings before but i have found that those protek sealed ones from a-main at $10 for 10 work perfectly well and at that price i run one set during qualifying and change them out just as a precaution for finals.
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Old 06-22-2008, 06:14 PM   #1541
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I didn't read all the way through the respnoses, so if this has been suggested I appoligize, but make sure your CB and spur are parrallel, if they are at an angle it puts side load on the bearings, which they arn't desgined to handle and they fail, also make sure your motor mounts are both mounted properly, they can mount the motor forward or backwards, depending what side of the motor you mount them on, and I've got two sets mixed up before, one side forward and one side back, which had the motor mount in the truck cock eyed, which puts side load on the bearings, I dont know if you got the truck used, or if you have more than one set of mounts, or maybe the factory mixed a pair up, but its worth checking, its a pretty noticable visual difference if one side is mounted forward and the other back when you are actually looking at them,

I would also make sure all your bracing bolts are tight, when I switched to the BCE chasisis I wans't running the extended motor mount plate, and I was getting too much chaisis flex and blowing bearings, if your brace mount bolts are loose it gives the same effect,
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Old 06-22-2008, 09:23 PM   #1542
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I am running the Cen collet and flywheel. Also gold springs, along woth a mugen bell and King heads hard Mugen shoes. I used the shims with the shoes, and found out with the mugen bell I dont need to use any shims. It does have the slightest bit of play like it should. I have never taken the mounts off the mill so I know they are fine, for maintenance I take off the mill with the plates attached. I dont see any miss alignement anywhere. Let me say that the only bearing that blows is the front one. I did a while back lose that tapered washer that came with the kit that goes on the screw and couldnt find a replacement. That couldnt be it could it?
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Old 06-24-2008, 05:22 AM   #1543
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I just ordered a Pro twister mods Go .21 5 port. Please tell me it will fit on the stock engine mount. I also need a new starter box, can someone tell me a buget friendly one that will fit the TR? Someone at my local track has the Venom box for sale with a battery does ayone know if that one will fit. I thought all universal ones will fit any buggy or truggy? This will be the 1st time I used a box on my TR should I dremel the chassis at an angle to let the wheel grab better?
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Old 06-24-2008, 07:26 AM   #1544
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Please tell me it will fit on the stock engine mount.
Well yes it will. IF you had the pull start I believe there are some spacers that need to be removed. Other than that just bolt it in.

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I also need a new starter box, can someone tell me a buget friendly one that will fit the TR? ...should I dremel the chassis at an angle to let the wheel grab better?
There are a couple good boxes for the TR. I've got the Ofna Truggy box. It would start a train I'm sure if it had to, but it takes some mods and finessing to get it to fit the chassis nice. The other is the OFNA chrome top. I've heard this too is a great box and apparently a little easier to make the chasis fit on. As for the chasis thing, I've not touched mine and had no issue getting flywheel to box contact, but thats me.

Just my $0.02, hope it helps.

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Old 06-24-2008, 08:25 AM   #1545
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Nobody knows if the Venom box will work and is it powerful enough?
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