air8

iTrader: (7)

Hmmmm... That sucks. If you never changed the servo brand then cutting the excess would be ok. But, if you change brands anytime down the road you might need that extra 1-2mm. How bad is it rubbing on the body? And are you leaving that 1-2mm of extra play at full throttle? Like when you're full throttle you can still pull the linkage another mm or two? Might have to see what the more experienced racers have done to remedy that one.

tex1

iTrader: (4)

If Losi would just take the diff case tool and mold in a metal side plate into that particular side of the slot, it would fix the problem. They could use hardened steel shim material. This is a two operation tool anyways to get the metal bearing supports in.
TEX

tex1

iTrader: (4)

Put a 3mm spacer under your front body mount and tighten it back down. It will lift the body just enough to clear the pipe nipple and throttle linkages. It also makes the nose fit better without destroying the body.
Fixed.

TEX

air8

iTrader: (7)

Wow. That was simple. Never dawned on me to do that. Nice tip.

dodgeboy93

hello guys,
long time reader first time poster... great job guys on this thread so much info if you read it all and apply it we all could be pros!!!!!
i have a question tho #losa9155 quick change engine mount .. can you use a starter box with this part ????

rezenclowd3

iTrader: (17)

Yes, a starter box will work fine.

watty

Hi guys, i have a quick question for you.

a few of us are having trouble with the rear suspension binding up after a run. when you press down the back of the car, it stays down. this may be due to dirt getting into the wishbone pivot points, but its happening a lot, to a number of losi 8ights. we have tried reaming the wishbones, and adding a small peice of foam behind the diaphram in the shocks, this has made them slightly better, but it is still a problem. has anyone else had this problem? if so what did you do to cure it?

thanks.

gtsum

get the m2c rear toe plates...it really, really frees up the suspension and you will notice your ride height will remain much more constistant throughout the race day

Maximo

iTrader: (11)

Actually the Ninja 2053 is not a 053...the 2053 is a whole different tuned pipe...the 053 is a 2 chamber pipe, the 2053 is a 3 chamber........... as well a 053 makes more power and TQ then a 2053.....

gtsum

yep, what he said^^^^^^^

speedy2

iTrader: (1)

M2C also makes rear suspsion rods that are 0.2 mm thinner
and free up the arms...

Integra

iTrader: (8)

i say bent hingepins....thats the only real way the rear end would lock down like that...Unless its the shocks or something...but i have a feeling your rear inside and outside pins are Bent to all hell.

RETRO RC

there are a couple of things you need to check,

#1 as mentioned above hingepins check both inner and outer for bends.

#2 shock seals - as these get old they tend to become hard and restrict the movent of the shock shaft, especially with ultimate shock seals.

#3 the shock shafts may also be bent

in the past if I've found my shocks not returning properly these are usually the reasons

Adrian

micrors4guy

iTrader: (50)

short video of a lap at my local track my friend shot before the battery on the camera went dead. Was only able to get about a lap and a half. Batterys die when he goes to flip me back over.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5gg8Bqu93A

ShotGunn

iTrader: (7)

Hey if i bought a losi 8ight pro an put a rtr motor mount on it with a roto start engine, would it work.
I hate the starter box idea