Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road
Losi 8ight building and setup >

Losi 8ight building and setup

Community
Wiki Posts
Search

Losi 8ight building and setup

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-03-2008, 04:38 PM
  #5911  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (75)
 
sickboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Corona, CA
Posts: 2,078
Trader Rating: 75 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by rezenclowd3
With my C6BB and 8mm stock venturi (I usually use a 7mm or 6.5mm) I got anywhere between 9min to 9min 30 seconds using the timer in my 3pks. The longer 9min 30sec was when I had to turn-marshal myself during practice. I love the clunk in the Losi tank!! Of course, run time varies very much so with throttle control, tune and track design and length. We have quite a few slower speed jumps with significant air time.

My old WS7II would get closer to 7 minutes. Im hoping the Ninja lives up to its hype on run time, but that will be awhile till I run it since I have a spare piston, sleeve and conrod for my C6BB. The Ninja will mainly be a backup when the C6BB is being maintained.

I will be using an 053 pipe with the Ninja, but the Nova pipes are not very durable. Has anyone tried the Dynamite, Ofna or Werks based 053's? Price is not a concern as I usually buy based on performance.
ninja 2053 twist-lock pipe and long header. kinda pricy, but if you want the best 053 pipe, there it is. i have had mine for over a year, not even one tiny ding on it anywhere. indestructable.
sickboy is offline  
Old 01-03-2008, 05:00 PM
  #5912  
Tech Addict
 
chuckinator's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Tucson, Az
Posts: 624
Default

Originally Posted by Integra
a trinity Drake Platinum is the same as a Picco Evo 2...or the JPX version...and stock for stock the motor's Rock....modded is another different animal.....To date it is THE HIGHEST dyno'd .21 on the charts 1.8 HP...lets see a Nova or C6BB do that.
I do belive that the sleeve is a little different between the Drake and the Evo 2. The timing may be differnt as well. But basically they are the same just not exact.
chuckinator is offline  
Old 01-03-2008, 05:40 PM
  #5913  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
 
rezenclowd3's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Solvang, CA
Posts: 2,367
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Problem is a dyno says nothing about drive-ability. Also, there still is no standard for dyno-ing these small motors. HP alone means nothing.
rezenclowd3 is offline  
Old 01-03-2008, 05:40 PM
  #5914  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (8)
 
Integra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 12,489
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by chuckinator
I do belive that the sleeve is a little different between the Drake and the Evo 2. The timing may be differnt as well. But basically they are the same just not exact.


No there the same....Trust me.....buddy has Modded Many of Picco's, JPX, Drake versions....and shamefully None of them are "tweeked" by the driver's as they all claim to be...
Integra is offline  
Old 01-03-2008, 05:51 PM
  #5915  
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
 
tex1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 1,156
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Thumbs up

We carry the 053 pipes and the Dynamite and Sportworks ones are definitly worth their weight. They preform awesome considering they are just Nova clones of old proven designs.
Dynamite's hard anodized 053 is $50 with a header.
Good stuff.
TEX
tex1 is offline  
Old 01-03-2008, 05:55 PM
  #5916  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
 
rezenclowd3's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Solvang, CA
Posts: 2,367
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Well then, I may just get the Dynamite 053 for my local tracks and the Ninja 053 when I hit up Revelation, Sun Valley and The Dirt. The Ninja pipe looks good though...
rezenclowd3 is offline  
Old 01-03-2008, 06:39 PM
  #5917  
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Lincoln Park-Chicago
Posts: 881
Default

Originally Posted by rezenclowd3
Well then, I may just get the Dynamite 053 for my local tracks and the Ninja 053 when I hit up Revelation, Sun Valley and The Dirt. The Ninja pipe looks good though...
Got to agree. depending on the track, I run a Dynamite 086, Sportwerks 053, or Vantage BU120L-04 pipe. The Dynamite and Sportwerks pipes are from the same manufacturing facility I'm sure.
satoch is offline  
Old 01-03-2008, 09:23 PM
  #5918  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
 
Jon Kerr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: San Diego
Posts: 9,659
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by rezenclowd3
Problem is a dyno says nothing about drive-ability. Also, there still is no standard for dyno-ing these small motors. HP alone means nothing.
I don't trust dyno stats ever. Even electric in touring cars. They don't mean crap and a lot of time they're complete BS. I remember seeing some engine, I can't remember which one, but it claimed 2.8 hp. I was just getting into nitro racing and thought, "OK, I guess that's pretty normal." Then I see things written like above talking about the highest dyno'd engine at 1.8hp. I just know my EB mod V-Spec with a JP3 is plenty of power and decent fuel efficiency. I don't care what the actual HP is.
Jon Kerr is offline  
Old 01-03-2008, 09:56 PM
  #5919  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
 
rezenclowd3's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Solvang, CA
Posts: 2,367
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

MMMM OS V-Spec. Another engine I would like to try. The price for the OS is GREAT at this time at many shops.
rezenclowd3 is offline  
Old 01-04-2008, 07:05 AM
  #5920  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (11)
 
Maximo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,901
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by rezenclowd3
You should be checking your diffs after every day of racing. When at a big club race like Revelation when there is a large enough break, I will also quickly check the diffs then as this will harm the diff gears. Like I said previously, usually I have to toss 1-2 diff cups every race day, but they are NEVER that bad. Usually mine only get bad enough where you can just start to feel the notch the cross pin makes.
are you doing donuts with your car or something ? that kind of wear that quickly is always from someone abusing their diffs and allowing them to unload violently......I mean that kind of diff wear is not from normal track driving, that wear is from excessive diff action..... Do you get a kick out of ballooning your inside wheel ?
Maximo is offline  
Old 01-04-2008, 07:08 AM
  #5921  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (11)
 
Maximo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,901
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Here is the only way someone is going to wear out a diff that quickly...



And not to fan the fire, but Integra's Picco engine is a whole bunch more powerful then a C6...He's not joking or making things up, the Picco he runs is unlike any .21's you've likely ever seen before...
Maximo is offline  
Old 01-04-2008, 08:05 AM
  #5922  
Tech Master
iTrader: (89)
 
SCUBA STEVE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,872
Trader Rating: 89 (99%+)
Default

What kind of CA does he use!.......
SCUBA STEVE is offline  
Old 01-04-2008, 09:40 AM
  #5923  
saw
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 158
Default

the diffs will start to notch in one day if the track is rough i always check my center and rear cup before the mains hopefully losi will get the plastic problem straightend out. my car is a first gen car and all of the original parts have lasted longer than their replacement parts. my original front a arms last ten times longer than my replacements. the replacement had a noticiable bow after one month
saw is offline  
Old 01-04-2008, 09:44 AM
  #5924  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (162)
 
Brian Miskolczi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Maryland
Posts: 4,219
Trader Rating: 162 (100%+)
Default

Saw- That is exactly what I experienced. The arms bowed and the diffs notched. The plastic mix is alot softer.
Brian Miskolczi is offline  
Old 01-04-2008, 11:39 AM
  #5925  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
 
rezenclowd3's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Solvang, CA
Posts: 2,367
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Maximo
are you doing donuts with your car or something ? that kind of wear that quickly is always from someone abusing their diffs and allowing them to unload violently......I mean that kind of diff wear is not from normal track driving, that wear is from excessive diff action..... Do you get a kick out of ballooning your inside wheel ?
Well, as you can see, from above posts,s ome others also have the same problem. I ONLY race. I do not bash, I do not do donuts, I do not see how high I can fly etc. I drive with a very smooth throttle finger developed from racing 10th stadium truck.

Maximo: Your statement with the pic is very wrong, it IS NOT the ONLY way someone will wear diffs that quickly. I believe after my 13+ gallons that it has to be the soft plastics. (Even with several FULL rebuilds)

Anyway, enough arguing has happened based on how much MY diffs wear. I know it happens, it happens to several others on this thread, no use trying to prove anyone wrong. You won't be able to diagnose the cause IF it is due to my maintenance since most likely you won't ever see my vehicle. I visit Revelation once in a while and if someone wants to take a look at my vehicle when Im there, I am 100% for it. I am tired of replacing diff cases. You'll be able to pick me out 'cause my body has my screen name and real name on it, on an internal vinyl.

I would be ECSTATIC if someone pointed out that I was building my diffs wrong. (I'd be embarrassed, but ecstatic nonetheless.) I highly doubt it though, as nothing binds, nothing sounds funny, and the driveline is VERY free.

Last edited by rezenclowd3; 01-04-2008 at 11:54 AM.
rezenclowd3 is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.