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Old 01-03-2007, 10:22 PM   #1246
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Waffle houses stop just short of Miami. I used to run a moroso. RC racing is alot cheaper and I can work on my car inside with a/c away from the moscitos. I would rather change servos than cams, these carbs are easier to tune and I dont have to fill any N2o tanks.

Waffle house rocks
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Old 01-03-2007, 10:40 PM   #1247
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Originally Posted by infanterene
Waffle houses stop just short of Miami. I used to run a moroso. RC racing is alot cheaper and I can work on my car inside with a/c away from the moscitos. I would rather change servos than cams, these carbs are easier to tune and I dont have to fill any N2o tanks.

Waffle house rocks
Can't argue with that...but while I love RC stuff, there's nothing like the feeling of pulling it all together and putting down a good pass with no broken parts. Going back to the track on the 14th...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufdZGwjGKP0

I really think it's a travel/EPA/linkage deal. I did Jerry's car as tight as I could, with minimum EPA to stop the car...it was bound up...then I loosened the "calipers" just enough to get it to roll. It only has JUST enough travel (throttle and brake) to get the job done.

Equipment = Grommets, no spacers at all, stock Losi hose and hardware, cut-down (almost in half) stock spring, washer under horn, stock throttle ball. Failsafe set to neutral (Spektrum) just in case. Sub-trim set to where the horn is slightly towards the carb...just past square.

I'm not saying that we have it licked yet...give it a couple more gallons...LOL...I just think it's a setup deal. I just wanted to let y'all know what we were trying and how it was doing. I'm more of a "minimalist" when it comes to troubleshooting stuff.
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Old 01-03-2007, 11:56 PM   #1248
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O.K. I've got 2 full gallons now on a 359
Waitin on it to blow or The AE car to come out, whichever is first.
I'm bettin servo.
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Old 01-04-2007, 02:23 AM   #1249
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I'm bettin servo.
Me too
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Old 01-04-2007, 07:18 AM   #1250
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Originally Posted by infanterene
I am really frustrated. I blew another servo today. I have my EPA right, my linkage aligned, Got rid of the big throttle return spring and cut my small throttle spring. I dont know what else to do. I think iam going to sell it and get something else. I love the way the 8 drives but I give up.

Its really a shame besides this the buggy 8 is awesome. To survive over 2 gallons at the track with a newby like me driving and not brake a single thing is incredible but this servo thing has me really down.

Anybody want to trade for another good buggy?
Have you tried using the grommets that come with the servo. If it is flex that is causing the problem then the grommets should isolate the servo from that flex. Just remember when you use them not to tighten the screw that goes through the grommet all the way down tight. Just tighten it down till it touches the top of the grommet. This way the servo can move in the grommets if put under a great load. I use these grommets along with having the EPA setup right, the little spring on the throttle cut 1/8 inch less, and deleting the large throttle return spring. I have not lost a throttle servo yet and I have over a full gallon on mine.
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Old 01-04-2007, 08:07 AM   #1251
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yes sport I have grommets.
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Old 01-04-2007, 08:34 AM   #1252
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I just lost my first throttle servo, and I thought I was in the clear after 2 and a half gallons.
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Old 01-04-2007, 08:47 AM   #1253
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man... people need to get over blowing throtal servos and start learning to set up epa and stuff. if you are blowing them you are doing something wrong somewhere in the set up, no matter if you think you are doing it right or not. Cause if you are blowing the servos you are doing something wrong.

we have about 10 or so losi's on any given race day where I run, and I have yet to see one blow a throtal servo arround here.
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Old 01-04-2007, 09:18 AM   #1254
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man... people need to get over blowing throtal servos and start learning to set up epa and stuff. if you are blowing them you are doing something wrong somewhere in the set up, no matter if you think you are doing it right or not. Cause if you are blowing the servos you are doing something wrong.
Actually, I had my EPA and linkage set up correctly the last 3-4 servos, and only one survived, and has survived for months now... I haven't seen a single shred of conlusive evidence that specifically explains why they die...yet...
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Old 01-04-2007, 09:47 AM   #1255
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I have been told that the servo gets hot because of were it sits. You can cut the hole a little bigger around the motor and that helps heat escape and use a servo with a heatsink. I am using a futaba 9451 and the hole bottom of it is an aluminum case. I have ran about 7 gallons on it and no trouble
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Old 01-04-2007, 09:55 AM   #1256
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Actually, I had my EPA and linkage set up correctly the last 3-4 servos, and only one survived, and has survived for months now... I haven't seen a single shred of conlusive evidence that specifically explains why they die...yet...

Maybe you should try setting them a different "correct" way. It's not like there's just one way to do it "correct".

What kills servos is stalling them. If the motor is getting full current and they can't move...they die. Some die pretty quickly, no matter what brand of car they're in.

Jerry killed a few JR servos in his old truggy by turning off his radio while his car was on...the Spektrum would failsafe and it wasn't set correctly (full brakes +++++) and it would kill servos sitting in the pits. One died on the track after 1 tank (9000S).

Normal braking with too much travel would do the same thing, it would just take a little longer. The current going through a motor goes WAY up when it's stalled.

You can smoke a starter motor in a 1:1 car in seconds if the motor can't turn...LOL...not that I would have ever done that. Even in electric RC stuff, the quickest way to kill a motor is to over-gear it. It'll smoke the windings, burn the brushes and the comm.
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Old 01-04-2007, 09:55 AM   #1257
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My epa are set right according to everyone who has checked it. last night someone suggested opening a hole in the body to let more air in. I am also going to put some heat tape on the side of the servo to isolate it from the motor/clutch heat.

I am actually talking to my car now and letting it know that this is its last chance.

Has anyone blow a servo with the kinghead aluminum peice?
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Old 01-04-2007, 10:01 AM   #1258
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You do know where the heat comes from in a servo...right?

From the motor being stalled...from trying to overcome a high load when there's maximum current and minimum RPM.

"Get there" current is a lot higher than "stay there" current.
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Old 01-04-2007, 10:31 AM   #1259
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Maybe you should try setting them a different "correct" way. It's not like there's just one way to do it "correct".
By correct I mean that the trigger is at full travel when the throttle is wide open, no radio tray flex at all. Same thing with the brakes, except minor tray flex. I must've been "correct" becuase the servo is STILL WORKING. It's the exact same type of servo I killed 4 times. The throttle arm and servo arm are lined up(carb arm twisted about 30 degrees off center). If you read back through the thread, you'll see all the steps I took...and the servo still lives!
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Old 01-04-2007, 03:17 PM   #1260
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Try using an good analog servo if you are using a digital one. Analogs are less critical of linkages being slightly off or incorrect. A digital servo will fight it till it burns out. If your servo is getting hot I doubt it has to do with the servo being close to the engine. The crankcase of the engine does not get extremely hot. It is more likely that it is being binded up somewhere an heating up internally.
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