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Old 12-27-2006, 11:45 AM   #1156
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http://m2cracing.com/
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Old 12-27-2006, 06:00 PM   #1157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TEN,TEN,
hey SupermaxxRich, what is that ring thing on your cvd outdrive?
thanks,
tennison
it is not needed if you clean your set screw and threads properly and use good locktite. I haven't had pin come out in 4 hours run time but thought I'd throw those on there as a precaution
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Old 12-27-2006, 07:23 PM   #1158
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So I didnt buy into the "car is killing servos" thing...

Mine was set up perfect, no binding, EPA was right, no coil bind, throttle arm was pulling dead straight... And it Killed my $120 servo tonight. Pass the crow, im hungry.


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Old 12-27-2006, 08:51 PM   #1159
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How did you have your brake bias set? I think it strains the servo alot to have more rear brake bias because the disk and pad surface is much smaller. Try evening out the bias
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Old 12-27-2006, 11:42 PM   #1160
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FlyByWire

If (I'm sure you did ) have all of your adjustment done correctly, the only logical explanation would be chassis flex then. I know I have done all the proper adjustment too. (Haven't lost any servos) but I ordered this, just to add a little more protection.

When you send your servo in, ask for a explanation of the failure. I'm guessing a broken circuit board, and not a blow motor..

I'm curious what was the manufacture of the servo?

Good luck.

Steve

Maybe see you at the pit come Fed 20-25....
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Old 12-27-2006, 11:43 PM   #1161
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Hi guys, got my 8ight on Christmas. Welp, I took it to the track on
the 26th, and I lost the things that go in the front center CVD's. I
was lucky enough to find them on the track, and put them back in, only
to have the pin slide out again.

A buddy, Mike Czech, had a cvd pin from a TTR S3, it fits BETTER than
stock, it's flush with both sides of the cvd end (not sure what to
call it) and the flat spot is about 1.5 times as big as the stock
losi. I cranked the setscrew on that and it worked perfectly for the
rest of the night. Now I took my glow ignitor tip cover (rubber thing)
and cut it into 2 equal sized peices and pushed them over the cvd pins
and stuff. Seems like it'll work perfectly.

I did notice what people were saying about the rear being loose,
compared to other cars. I switched to this 8ight from my K2, it's a
whole 'nother beast. Alot of corner speed. I'm running a VSpec and JP-
3, great combo! I love it! So much power at tank 10 it's amazing. The
stock clutch didn't last long, it wore pretty fast. One night of
running and I think half my carbons were dust floating in the clutch
bell. I bought some KHZ 7075's and put them on with green/gold
springs, hope that works well. I run at Leisure Hours Raceway, indoor
hi-bite clay, blue groove etc.

Switch 2.0's work real well stretched over losi (bigger) rims.

Just wanted to put in my $.02, =)

Matt
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Old 12-28-2006, 01:28 AM   #1162
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FlyByWire What servo did you kill?
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Old 12-28-2006, 03:59 AM   #1163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyByWire
So I didnt buy into the "car is killing servos" thing...

Mine was set up perfect, no binding, EPA was right, no coil bind, throttle arm was pulling dead straight... And it Killed my $120 servo tonight. Pass the crow, im hungry.



Did you have the rubber grommets on the servo? ..... I killed a total of three $120 dollar servo's , I put those on and been good since. I think that brace will just make something else break, The tray must flex some where so by using the grommets you allow it to do just that.
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Old 12-28-2006, 05:13 AM   #1164
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I stopped breaking servos when I took the grommets off and fixed the brake bias so who knows

I still feel like one could go at any time though

Last edited by ldawg; 12-28-2006 at 05:27 AM.
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Old 12-28-2006, 08:36 AM   #1165
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I broke a 360 and a 359.

The first one may have been set up wrong, but I doubt it.

Rubber gromets were used in both cases.

I'll have my local factory driver take a gander at the next one before I run it.

A new one I heard was to check the diff brace, if it's too tight, it may cause the rear brake to drag.

I understand that in a buggy, these servo's get worked pretty hard.. Im just wondering why this buggy seems to be plagued with problems that Losi wont acknowledge or at least put out something about how to set up the linkage (since the by-the-book way obviously isnt right..)

Im not going to get a new car due to 2 broken servo's... but one more and this thing is in the dumpster.
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Old 12-28-2006, 09:01 AM   #1166
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Quote:
Losi wont acknowledge
Actually, a friend of mine bought the RTR,had the same issues, and Losi has acknowledged there's a problem...have you called them?

Quote:
but one more and this thing is in the dumpster
I understand your frustration, I felt it too. There's no reason to give up on the car, you should know by now how well it handles. We'll get it sorted, mine has been going strong for months now...
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Old 12-28-2006, 09:03 AM   #1167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R40Victim
Actually, a friend of mine bought the RTR,had the same issues, and Losi has acknowledged there's a problem...have you called them?



I understand your frustration, I felt it too. There's no reason to give up on the car, you should know by now how well it handles. We'll get it sorted, mine has been going strong for months now...

Yeah you were the first person I thought of.. haha..

Didnt you put some heat shield tape on your servo too? I may do that just in case as well... after I go through the linkage for a third time.
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Old 12-28-2006, 10:17 AM   #1168
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Flybywire,

The 359 & 360 have been the servo's with the most failure with this buggy. (that I've read) Not that they are not a great servo,(I like them a lot) but for some reason they have been majority failures.

You just may want to try another manufacture. HiTec, Ko, Futaba Etc. etc.

Myself, as well as a bunch of us local 8IGHT drivers are using the Hitec 5995TG servos for the throttle or both, and none have had any failure using them. There reg. around $114.00, but if you shop around on the web, you can fin them for $94.00. Just an FYI..

http://www.servocity.com/html/hsr-59...ra_torque.html
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Last edited by Steve Walters; 12-28-2006 at 10:29 AM.
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Old 12-28-2006, 10:32 AM   #1169
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Hey guys,

Please make sure your brake EPA is correct. If you have to much EPA then this is going to cause the servo to bind up and possibly fail. When applying the brake you want no deadband on your radio as you are pushing the brake. The throttle servo arm on the 8ight is a lot longer than other 1/8 cars. By the arm being longer you need less servo throw to go the same distance of throw as if the arm is shorter.

Another thing that I think is important is to cut the body vent hole that is above the throttle servo(I even cut up over the body vent hole by .125"(1/8") to get more air into the body). Then cut the back side of the body out slightly so you can get airflow through the body. This will also help with cooling everything.
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Old 12-28-2006, 11:03 AM   #1170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Walters
Flybywire,

The 359 & 360 have been the servo's with the most failure with this buggy. (that I've read) Not that they are not a great servo,(I like them a lot) but for some reason they have been majority failures.


Just put a 359 in the one I just built for my friend...LOL

The linkage is tricky to set up for sure. I had to shim up the servo horn and tweak stuff around quite a bit to get everything to fit and work correctly. I think the throttle EPA is down in the 30s and the brake EPA is down in the 50s, IIRC. I set them as low as I could and had the brakes dragging a bit, then backed off the "calipers" a turn or so.

The car seems to run really nice...and what the hell...LOL...Airtronics is VERY close to us...LOL If it does bite the dust, we'll make sure and get a full post-mortem.

I can't wait until the servo manufacturers add this buggy to the list of excluded uses under their warranties...LOL
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