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Old 09-26-2006, 08:52 AM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davidka
There is no way to adjust rear toe/squat out of the box. Will losi offer plates to adjust this? Eck Tech makes a nice aftermarket setup for Mugens that use inserts to adjust toe so that there is only one block needed and inserts can be replaced inexpensively to keep the car tight. I hope they do the same for the Losi.
Here are a few part numbers that we missed for the Parts list:
LOSA1746 Rear Outer Pin Brace 3deg Toe/ 2deg Antisquat $11.99 Stock
LOSA1747 Rear Outer Pin Brace 2deg Toe/ 2deg Antisquat $11.99
LOSA1748 Rear Outer Pin Brace 2deg Toe/ 3deg Antisquat $11.99
LOSA1749 Rear Outer Pin Brace 3deg Toe/ 3deg Antisquat $11.99
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Old 09-26-2006, 09:55 AM   #92
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I noticed that the slight bind the gears have was greatly affected by how I torqued the driveshaft coupling onto the output shaft. There is a little play in the output shaft, and if it is smashed inwards torwards the ring gear when the coupling is cranked on, the gear mesh is a little tight inside, and a binding feel is the result.

I pulled the output shaft outwards, then gently put the coupling on and tightened it down without moving the shaft, and now it is as free as a bird.
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Old 09-26-2006, 10:08 AM   #93
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I did the same (pulled the output shaft outward). I still have a slight bind.
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Old 09-26-2006, 11:33 PM   #94
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Mine bound up also, but tightening the screws that hold the ring gear to the diff case fixed the problem. You really have to put more muscle into it than you think you would. Or you could take the gear off and sand the diff case on a sheet of glass or something very flat.
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Old 09-27-2006, 07:41 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich Trujillo
Here are a few part numbers that we missed for the Parts list:
LOSA1746 Rear Outer Pin Brace 3deg Toe/ 2deg Antisquat $11.99 Stock
LOSA1747 Rear Outer Pin Brace 2deg Toe/ 2deg Antisquat $11.99
LOSA1748 Rear Outer Pin Brace 2deg Toe/ 3deg Antisquat $11.99
LOSA1749 Rear Outer Pin Brace 3deg Toe/ 3deg Antisquat $11.99

NICE AVITARD!
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Old 09-27-2006, 09:10 AM   #96
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Why doesn't the buggy come with those?
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Old 09-27-2006, 09:18 AM   #97
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wow!! losi should give us a couple of bucks back for all this testing!! ha ha. i had some binding in my front diffs one of the planetary gears was binding to the planetary gear axle. work it around and it seems to be ok. my dogbone,cv coupling, rod and axle (1 side) is still binding but i'll look into it today. and the only other thing was step b-12. it looks like the bulk head spacer should go somewhere on the bottom. and you cant slip it under the chassis brace. I just pulled the chassis brace off again and that was it. with all these first batch set backs. i hope that someone from losi is checking out our feedback. i wouldnt run the thing untill everything is free and not binding. wouldnt want losi to say a person did put it together right when the binding problem chews up the diff gear and we need help with replacement parts. But thats why im taking my time with the thing.
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Old 09-27-2006, 10:14 AM   #98
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Anybody had any problems with the fuel line that goes into the tank leaking around that hole?
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Old 09-27-2006, 10:19 AM   #99
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i see the 8ight parts have made it to ebay already!!
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Old 09-27-2006, 10:23 AM   #100
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Yeah I've thought about parting out kits before but its a lot of listings and a lot of fees for a little bit of profit.
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Old 09-27-2006, 11:21 AM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastzach
Anybody had any problems with the fuel line that goes into the tank leaking around that hole?
no not yet but i see that as a problem. i was thinking that it was some type of nipple,but its juts a hole with a tube in it. its about an inch inside the tank should it be like that? there was also something rattling inside the tank.
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Old 09-27-2006, 11:22 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastzach
Anybody had any problems with the fuel line that goes into the tank leaking around that hole?
I've got over a gallon through mine right now and haven't had any leaking issues... just make sure that you use the large fuel tubing and not the medium stuff when you replace it.
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Old 09-27-2006, 11:24 AM   #103
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Well my build is comming right along. I'm basically to the shocks. After reading about people having the shaft reatainers come loose during races, I decided to build just the shafts, and let the lock-tite dry for 24 hours before submerging them in shock oil.

The center diff assembly was a real pain. Trying to get the brake cams, and the screws that hold it all together is a headache! You've got 6 things to line up, all this while the linkage and brake cam arms are all dangling...I guess you're supposed to install this thing in zero-G! I managed to finally get it on there, by removing the disk brake so I could even SEE the brake cam, in order to get it lined up and inserted correctly. The only pain then was to put the brake pad mounting screws back in at the correct depth.

Everything is working pretty smoothly, only the inner bevel gears inside the rear diff needed TLC to move freely. I can't wait to finaly drive the freakin thing!
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Old 09-27-2006, 11:33 AM   #104
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hey Brandon. should i pull the tubing so that its flush or a couple of mm in the tank? now i have about an in of tubing in the tank. i sure its like that for packaging.
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Old 09-27-2006, 11:42 AM   #105
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Default Fuel tank rattle.

The rattle in the tank is a clunker filter attached to the end of the fuel tubing. This helps keep fuel flowing even when the car is upside down. On thing that happens with silicon tubing is that it expands with Nitro, so the seal in the tank where the fuel line enters will expand creating its own seal to the outside.
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