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Old 09-25-2006, 04:04 AM   #76
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I think
the center-rear driveshaft going just 2 mm into the diff outdrive
is for easier maintenance with those 1piece center supports
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Old 09-25-2006, 06:15 AM   #77
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Hey all first a couple building tips. Be sure the rear clutch bell bearing is seated all the way in the bell, mine fit very tight and I thought it was in all the way but it wasn't. If with the bell on the engine you can see any shoe between the bell and the fly wheel the bearing is not seated. Second tip is round the ends of the clutch pins with a file or dremel, it will slide through the shoes, springs, and back hole in the flywheel much easier. Also be very sure you clean the threads with motor spray and locktight the screws that hold the pistons to the shock shafts. I had one come apart during the warm up for a main this weekend, luckily one of the guys was in the hobbyshop building his 8 and let me barrow one of his shocks so I could make the race. Ok I use the big Ofna blue box, I think it took me longer to set up the box than it took me to build the car I did have to bevel the edges of the flywheel slot in the chassis and had to mount the car way over on the left side of the box but it did work fawlessly all day Sat. Now for the driving report.....OH MY GOD THIS CAR IS GOOD....With the only change from the out of the box set up being ofna yellow foams the car was totally hooked up. I used all the fluids the kit came with and set everything just as it says in the manual. Amazing, now granted out track was in superb condition this weekend as we are preping it for our nitro challenge, the 8 does everything better than my old car (jammin, which I thought was very good). With only one day driving the car and using the stock setup I knocked a little over a second off my best lap time and set a new track record for 6min by a few seconds. The car is super stable, easy to drive and jumps better than any car I've seen, it pops off the lip, I was clearing everything with ease. The thing soaks up everything. One of the kids out at the track said "it just glides around the track" and I think that sums it up, it just seems like its floating over all the imperfections. Traction is awsome the only time the back end stepped out is when I was pushing the car and getting stupid with the throttle, and it steers easily as good as my old car which had a ton of steering. I could babble on forever, to sum it up the car is everything I hoped it would be and more. It's back to the drawing board for every other buggy manufacturer. If you don't go faster with this car than you're probably just over driving it. Stay smooth and in the groove and your lap times will be better with this car. Thanks, Jared F.
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Old 09-25-2006, 07:43 AM   #78
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Oh I forgot since there is no droop spec in the manual I set front droop at just less than full, and rear droop 1 full turn from full.
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Old 09-25-2006, 07:55 AM   #79
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Yeah there is no way this car will ever TQ all 4 rounds at the Nats with that center shaft angle...oh wait..


If it was going to be a problem, im sure Losi wouldnt have brought it out.
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Old 09-25-2006, 08:17 AM   #80
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I, too, had some burrrrrs on my rear diff plan gears. Front ones were fine (I know they are the same, just packed in different bags).

I was disapointed about the thin body. Oh well. can't complain. I usually swap out my 1/8 bodies for Proline or JC Concepts anyway. I would rather have a cheapo body and have some extra springs and swaybars anyday!

I'll be preording my 8ight Truggy the day Horizon makes it available!!
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Old 09-25-2006, 08:24 AM   #81
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There is a slight bind in my rear pinion/ring gear. Like either the pinion is a tiny bit out of round or the ring gear is slightly crooked. Anybody else find this? It is very slight but I am thinking of taking it apart and re checking to save the bearings from any strain while it breaks in.
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Old 09-25-2006, 08:33 AM   #82
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Well I figured since I was another of the first few to jump on the 8ight bandwagon and bought one right away I would sign up over here at RC Tech and post my thoughts.

Tony was referenceing my post from the S-grid about the screws backing out on the shock pistons. I did locktite them but I didn't wait long enough to let the locktite setup. In practice I had both the rear piston come out I re-built them and started qualifiers. Car works awesome. I used Drakes setup from this board for the Dirt and I could go on and on about the cars attributes but you'll just have to get your own and see for yourself how far superior this car is over some of the others out there. After the 2nd quailfier I noticed a front piston had come off and rebuilt it. I should have done the other front but was pushed for time. We ended up getting rained out for the mains and it was a good thing since I didn't touch the last shock. I tore all of them down on Sunday and it was held in by maybe 1 or 2 threads at the most.

This time I cleaned and locktited them and made sure they were TIGHT with a quality .05 driver from Wiha. I let them dry for several hours before I put them back together. Drake has another setup listed on Tech Talk.

This is what I have on the car now and will try it out this week if I can get down to Mills Pond for practice. It explains a little more about how to set the droop screws or at least how Adam does it.

"copied from Tech Talk"

Front:
2 degrees of toe-out
27mm ride height
-1 camber
stock castor
2.3 sway bar
54 pistons, 40wt oil
4.4lbs springs (same as what the kit recommends)
I set my droop by measuring the shocks when they are on the buggy. 3.680 from center to center.
long steering ackerman
bump steer washer down
#2 camber link
#2 - inside shock location
5000 diff fluid
Trinity 1400 mah battery

7000 center diff fluid

Rear:
3 degree of toe-in
3 degrees of anti squat
29mm ride height
-2 camber
hubs back
2.3 sway bar
55 pistons, 35wt oil.
3.1lbs (same as what the kit recommends)
I set my droop by measuring the shocks when they are on the buggy. 4.175 from center to center.
4-A camber link
#2- inside shock location
2000 diff fluid

Clutch:
2 alum with 1.0 / 30 degree springs
2 plastic with 1.0 / 25 degree springs
13/ 48 gearing
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Old 09-25-2006, 08:41 AM   #83
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My 8 is built but I have not raced it yet..... Two freinds of mine ran theirs this weekend they qualified 1 and 2 ...... They said the car is amazing to say the least!....I do beleive this will set a new platform for all the other company's .....
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Old 09-25-2006, 08:44 AM   #84
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On the starter box issue I use the small OFNA box. I had to trim the wheel a little to get it to clear. I will be milling out the chassis opening some with a Dremel. I don't really care about doing this as I have done it with every Mugen kit I've ever had. Take your time, make it clean and even and you'll be a happy camper when your try to start the buggy in the heat of the battle

I had a few screws that were a bit jacked up as in the head wasn't cut right for the hex wrench and one the wasn't cut out at all LOL

I had a few small burrs on the small diff gears but put it together anyway knowing they would free up quick with a little throttle and diff breakin as per the manual. They did and the drive train is now VERY free.

The tip posted above about the beveling the pins for the clutch shoes is a really good one IMO they were a pain in the butt to line up.

I will say I was 1 to 2 seconds faster with this car than I was with my Jammin. It is so different it will take some time to adjust my driving style to the car as it turns and jumps better than I can adjust for quickly. I wish I had a chance to race the mains as even with a bunch of wrecks I qualified 3rd and was looking foward to more track time with it. Although that shock would certainly have come apart right away.
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Old 09-25-2006, 08:54 AM   #85
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Couple minor issues I had with the build was a bad front axle and some screws that just suck.

The front axle looks to be mis-aligned in whatever machine stamped the pin holes. The holes are off center so the cv just binds up if I try to install the pin. Gotta wait for a replacement.

The silver (plated?) countersunk screws have hex slots that aren't cut very well or have excess coating on them, so you have to wiggle and work the wrench to get it into the screw head on a lot of them. Minor issue, but one I have not seen before on any car.

Also the rear diff is a PITA to squeeze into the diff case.

Everything else was cake. The more I look at the car the better I like it. The fat shocks are growing on me and the suspension feels like butter...
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Old 09-25-2006, 10:42 AM   #86
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I found that if you put the rear diff bearing inserts over the rear outdrives and mate the diff with the rear bulkhead, then put the rear bulkhead cover, it is much easier to line up the bearing inserts.

I don't think I'm a fan of the fuel tank, with the built in filter. I like to replace my fuel line every so often, and I think there is a chance of leakage where the fuel tubing passes through the tank. Different tubing has different outer diameters. If you get one that's a little too thin, you'r going to have problems.

I am a little bummed that the steering tierods (as mounted in the spindle) are not captured, or have a safety washer to prevent them from completely popping off.
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Old 09-25-2006, 11:26 AM   #87
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I've barely scratched the surface of mine. The one thing I've found so far that I really don't like is the Ackerman Steering Rack. It rides on mushroom shaped bushings, in stead of bearings. If anyone knows where i can find just the right bearings to replace them, please let me know. You nearly have to bind up the bushings to minimize the play. Mine is a little stiff, but I'm sure it'll "break in" as I drive. Besides that, I'm gonna use a steering servo with 130 oz + torque, so the 1 oz of drag shouldn't phase it at all...

Can't wait to drive this thing, if it does anywhere near as well as anyone whose driven one describes, I should be alot faster than I was with my old Mayhem...
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Old 09-26-2006, 05:53 AM   #88
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Anybody experience any binding in the rear ring/pinion gear? Mine is so slight I am thinking I'll just run it and let it break in.

There is no way to adjust rear toe/squat out of the box. Will losi offer plates to adjust this? Eck Tech makes a nice aftermarket setup for Mugens that use inserts to adjust toe so that there is only one block needed and inserts can be replaced inexpensively to keep the car tight. I hope they do the same for the Losi.
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Old 09-26-2006, 06:32 AM   #89
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David mine was bound up a little bit as well. It made a slight clicking when I rotated it. I took it apart a couple of times thinking one of the diff bearings didn't seat all the way. After several tries and messy rebuilds of the rear diff I said screw it I'll just run it in. After a few tanks it freed right up. I say run it and don't worry about it
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Old 09-26-2006, 06:59 AM   #90
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It is very likely that it's a tiny bit of flashing on a couple of the gear teeth. I can tell it is the ring gear but it is so little I should probably just run it like you said.
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