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Old 12-28-2009, 03:22 PM   #8581
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Thats the plan, we'll see how it turns out this time.
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Old 12-28-2009, 03:36 PM   #8582
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Originally Posted by Tate72 View Post
I need some advice, I have got a used 8ight to where the back of the chassis is worn down thin. It's not worn down all the way but I had to cut grooves in the back 2 screws to get them out. I would say it's less than half left. So my question is, until I get a new chassis for it will these work for now?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...si-8-8T-20-20T


Also I will ask here to. I can't seem to find a back plate on A-Main that I can use for the losi 427 motor to convert to a bump box. Does anybody know if the make one or where I can locate one at?
For the rear you can try the plates I would suggest using shoe-glue since the chasis is worn I would go with the older version not the new version since your chasis is worn they tend to bend easier since your chassis isnt true. Normal the tail wears the most making it hard too fasten since the front side is thicker.
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Old 12-28-2009, 04:13 PM   #8583
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Originally Posted by JEB21 View Post
blue loctite.

cleaned/sprayed them down with a bit of electric engine cleaner.

I'm going to rebuild tonite and soak in alcohol before assembling.
let us know how it goes.....should work just fine....i only use blue on those screw's..imo there's no need for red in this application.

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Originally Posted by nascarracer View Post
I know this is in here some where but can you use regular electric motors in my losi bump box?How do you change that pinion for the belt?thanks Lee
buy new pinion's and drill and tap for a set screw....its how i did mine.....what motor's are you using ?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ley-Set-8B--8T

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Originally Posted by bigjayjay1 View Post
For the rear you can try the plates I would suggest using shoe-glue since the chasis is worn I would go with the older version not the new version since your chasis is worn they tend to bend easier since your chassis isnt true. Normal the tail wears the most making it hard too fasten since the front side is thicker.
check the date of the post bigjay...Old thread that was revived by JEB. No harm done tho but im sure he's got his new chassis by now.
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Old 12-28-2009, 04:20 PM   #8584
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Integra what motors do you use in your box?I have alot of old motors(stock,19 or mod)
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Old 12-28-2009, 04:45 PM   #8585
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Integra what motors do you use in your box?I have alot of old motors(stock,19 or mod)


most anything will work....im actually Still running some Integy Crawler motor's that have been working for quite some time now.......they do turn on the slower side but i cant say they have ever hindered the ability to start a motor.

i also did run the stock motor's for over a year on lipo till one eventually let go and i swapped for the integy's.

Also I do run lipo which is definitely a factor in how much power your motor's will get....imo gel cells suck and so do nimh stick packs....with the price of lipo's now a days its a lot more common then it was a couple years ago....No need for any Regulator's or any Low voltage cut off's when you can get a 5000mah 4 cell for under 50$...you cant go wrong.
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Old 12-28-2009, 06:02 PM   #8586
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Yea I use two 2 cell packs and just burnt up my second set of stock motors trying to break in a new motor that is very tight.I just ordered those pinion gears so thanks for your help.Lee
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Old 01-24-2010, 10:12 PM   #8587
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Default Flywheel

Hi guys has anybody tred running the 8 2.0 flywheel?

I am interested because I'm setting up a spare motor for my 8T 2.0 and 8B 1.0.

I would like some feedback before I try it
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Old 01-24-2010, 10:41 PM   #8588
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Hi guys has anybody tred running the 8 2.0 flywheel?

I am interested because I'm setting up a spare motor for my 8T 2.0 and 8B 1.0.

I would like some feedback before I try it
The flywheels are the same thing. Just a different part number. It doesn't matter which one you order.
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Old 01-25-2010, 12:15 AM   #8589
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The flywheels are the same thing. Just a different part number. It doesn't matter which one you order.
Thanks I wasn't sure because of the part number thing and thought there may be some small difference between them
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Old 02-16-2010, 01:50 PM   #8590
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ok i have been lookin at the smart diff and was wondering if anyone has been running it in there 1.0 and how it does
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Old 02-17-2010, 04:13 AM   #8591
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What is this "smart diff" that MontanaMaxx is talking about?
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Old 02-17-2010, 04:42 AM   #8592
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What is this "smart diff" that MontanaMaxx is talking about?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...tDiff-8B-8B-20
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Old 02-22-2010, 01:31 PM   #8593
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What is this "smart diff" that MontanaMaxx is talking about?
I run the 2.0 smartdiff in my 1.0 center diff. Makes the world of difference.
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Old 02-22-2010, 03:15 PM   #8594
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Originally Posted by Joe Pasco View Post
I run the 2.0 smartdiff in my 1.0 center diff. Makes the world of difference.
Can you describe the world of difference? What sort of changes are you seeing, under what sort of driving conditions? I like the company descriptions, but I have never seen the product in use with a good before/after basis of comparison.

Seeing as you are using the center smartdiff, I would be particularly interested to know how it affects braking and acceleration, as well as turn in and cornering in general as you roll on and off the throttle. And anything else you would care to comment on as well!

Thanks in advance,
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Old 02-26-2010, 11:45 AM   #8595
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Originally Posted by JEB21 View Post
I'm blowing shocks out almost every time I hit the track. Essentially the shaft and the piston separate inside the shock body and the shaft comes out the bottom.

Are my screws holding the piston to the shaft not holding (I used loctite)?

or

is my sag not set correctly and the shock has too much potential for over extension?

Any tips or others have this problem? Thanks!
i had the same problem heres what you do.THIS WILL WORK. first set your droop measure 96mm for front shocks and 106mm for rear measure from top shock mount screw to bottom arm set screw. REAM the hole in the piston out so your screw can turn easily through the piston to the shock shaft.what happens is the screw is tight to the piston and that the piston turns it back out as it goes up and down. blue lock tight works just make shure you put it in the shaft and not the screw or it will come off when you tighten it down.
hope this helps.IT WORKED FOR ME
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