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Old 08-21-2009, 08:24 AM   #8551
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Chris RC

I see on your signature that you have a 1.5 buggy and was wondering how you like it I just got mine a little bit ago and have not had a change to run it yet. I was wondering how well it proformed over the 1.0 thanks

I have a 1.0 that I converted to a 1.5 using the BCE 2.0 chassis. This chassis completely changed the way the buggy handled for the better. I got more traction, stability, and steering all at once. Highly recommended. I am going to stay with the 1.0 machined towers as they are stronger than the 2.0 towers IMO.
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Old 08-24-2009, 05:31 PM   #8552
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I have a 1.0 that I converted to a 1.5 using the BCE 2.0 chassis. This chassis completely changed the way the buggy handled for the better. I got more traction, stability, and steering all at once. Highly recommended. I am going to stay with the 1.0 machined towers as they are stronger than the 2.0 towers IMO.


the 2.0 chassis does all that as well.....and what exactly consists of a 1.5 buggy ?
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Old 08-24-2009, 06:12 PM   #8553
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what do u need if u get that 2.0 chassis and put it on the 1.0 is it just longer cvds, when do u guys replace the clutch bell im still using my and im on my second gallon how can u tell i do clean it everytime etc after i race
it has the normal lines all inside the clutch bell from the clutch shoes
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Old 08-30-2009, 08:50 PM   #8554
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alright heres my question i have a quite abit of py in my small spider gear inside my front gearbox on my losi eight 1.0 im on my second gallon is that fine i have been running it like that for a while does i take away your speed or your torque away i heard that it could strip your gears out with that play
i tried some 5mm and 6mm metric washers from losi i tried the small ones and it does take the some of the play away but when the cvd axle pushes froward the gears start to to me smooth then when its not its smooth ,do i need to replace my gearbox or just get a new spider gear
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Old 08-31-2009, 03:33 AM   #8555
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i usually change out the oil and check the diff for loose gears every 20 hrs of runtime. you might want to crack it open and check them or maybe rebuild the whole diff while your at it.
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Old 08-31-2009, 08:47 AM   #8556
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Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
what do u need if u get that 2.0 chassis and put it on the 1.0 is it just longer cvds, when do u guys replace the clutch bell im still using my and im on my second gallon how can u tell i do clean it everytime etc after i race
it has the normal lines all inside the clutch bell from the clutch shoes

all you need for the chassis is the rear center bone......for the clutch bell....have you Always ran alum/comp combo ? if so chances are the bell is fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
alright heres my question i have a quite abit of py in my small spider gear inside my front gearbox on my losi eight 1.0 im on my second gallon is that fine i have been running it like that for a while does i take away your speed or your torque away i heard that it could strip your gears out with that play
i tried some 5mm and 6mm metric washers from losi i tried the small ones and it does take the some of the play away but when the cvd axle pushes froward the gears start to to me smooth then when its not its smooth ,do i need to replace my gearbox or just get a new spider gear


replace the cup's....if the gear's notch into the case it will cause issues.

what CVD axle are you pushing on ?
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Old 08-31-2009, 11:48 AM   #8557
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yes i always ran the alum/comp how long does the clutch bell last with all alum,the front cvd for the eight 1.0 the stock ones the cup does have lines alround the front of it ,so the small spider gear is fine and u dont want that back and foward play im gone to use the 5mm washer and replace the cup my rear is fine though
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Old 08-31-2009, 01:55 PM   #8558
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there's a fine line in clutching that will keep an All alum set-up alive and working well for its full life.....if you add too much stall on the spring's the shoes will overheat slag out and the CB could be DONE in a matter of minute's if you do it all wrong....you need to match the hardness of shoe with the spring to match the power your working with......the alum comp combo will ensure the alum shoes Never slag and leave any deposits On the bell....it will however need to be cleaned every once in a while as the comp shoes will leave a black film over the whole clutch.....when i service my stuff i have alcohol in a spray bottle i thoroughly clean my clutch with and you can see all the black junk coming off....its a wise idea to keep your clutch clean as it will pay off with longer life....and vented bells are a wise idea if you can work it.....I personally run them in truggy but use the stock losi bell's in buggy...its all personal preference in the end.
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Old 09-16-2009, 08:31 PM   #8559
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I need to replace my front CVDs, dogbones (everything) and i was thinking of getting the LOSA3520 kit. Is there a better/heavy duty one out there, other then the LOSA3520 one?
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Old 09-18-2009, 08:13 AM   #8560
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I need to replace my front CVDs, dogbones (everything) and i was thinking of getting the LOSA3520 kit. Is there a better/heavy duty one out there, other then the LOSA3520 one?
Anyone?
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Old 09-18-2009, 02:37 PM   #8561
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Originally Posted by big igg View Post
I need to replace my front CVDs, dogbones (everything) and i was thinking of getting the LOSA3520 kit. Is there a better/heavy duty one out there, other then the LOSA3520 one?


get the 2.0 spec version's....there a better material and will last a bit longer.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Set-2-8ight-20


2.0 parts are better in general.
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Old 09-18-2009, 07:06 PM   #8562
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Originally Posted by Integra View Post
get the 2.0 spec version's....there a better material and will last a bit longer.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Set-2-8ight-20


2.0 parts are better in general.
I had to order because the race is coming up soon and I ended up ordering the 1.0, I guess when they wear out I will order the 2.0. Thanks for the info
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Old 09-18-2009, 07:14 PM   #8563
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I had to order because the race is coming up soon and I ended up ordering the 1.0, I guess when they wear out I will order the 2.0. Thanks for the info

sorry bud....i didn't catch an email update to your first post....i surely would have linked you up then if i had seen it...again sorry for that.
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Old 09-19-2009, 04:25 PM   #8564
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sorry bud....i didn't catch an email update to your first post....i surely would have linked you up then if i had seen it...again sorry for that.
Oh no problem
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Old 09-25-2009, 10:30 PM   #8565
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i been running tko competition special high rpm with one side blue and the other black ,they say have the blue side in the front and the black facing the inside of the bell,well i been running with it with the black side in the front does it make a diffrence really if you have the blue side facing in the front,by the way these bearings are exllent they really can handle heat and high rpm
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