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Old 06-03-2009, 07:49 AM   #8431
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Default Losi 8 diffs

small video showing the diff locking up.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


Is it due to wear in the case or the gears or both?

Have greased the outdrive shafts and assemeled diff without oil but still pleanty on the gears and shafts.

If I press the outdrives into the case all is fine. If they are free to float they lock up but only from the casing output side.

The diff wasn't leaking oil so seals would appear to be ok.

Everything spins freely when not assemled as a complete diff
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Old 06-03-2009, 09:50 AM   #8432
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My guess would be the case, check to see if the case has a notch in it were the cross pins rest. That's why the came out with the HD diff case.
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Old 06-03-2009, 10:08 AM   #8433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gliptal View Post
My guess would be the case, check to see if the case has a notch in it were the cross pins rest. That's why the came out with the HD diff case.
+1
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Old 06-04-2009, 04:13 AM   #8434
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gliptal View Post
My guess would be the case, check to see if the case has a notch in it were the cross pins rest. That's why the came out with the HD diff case.
should the cross pins be a drop in fit or firm to slide in?

mine are firm to locate
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Old 06-04-2009, 04:51 AM   #8435
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+1 on the diff case
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Old 06-04-2009, 10:43 AM   #8436
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Quote:
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That's why the came out with the HD diff case.
and the part numbers are please???
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Old 06-04-2009, 01:17 PM   #8437
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PN: LOSB3528
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Old 06-05-2009, 09:03 AM   #8438
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Check your sun and planetary gears also and make sure the teeth aren't too worn or chipped, that could contribute also. I put the HD cases in mine a awhile back just to make sure I didn't have issues. Be sure you get the metals inserts in the right way.
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Old 06-06-2009, 01:14 PM   #8439
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Hi has any one run 3000 in the rear diff my currant set up is 5k front 7k center and 2k rear i am running on a very loose and dusty trace and when i power out of the corner i loose traction as the rear wheels just spin up will rumming 3k in the rear reduce this??
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Old 06-06-2009, 02:13 PM   #8440
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Lighter rear diff oil will be easier to drive on loose, dusty surfaces. Tire wear will become more inconsistent side to side.
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Old 06-10-2009, 06:36 PM   #8441
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what are you 1.0 truggy owners running for clutch/shoe setup. would the 2 alum / 2 carbon with gold and green springs provide enough punch for truggy?
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Old 06-10-2009, 07:59 PM   #8442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unsp0ken View Post
what are you 1.0 truggy owners running for clutch/shoe setup. would the 2 alum / 2 carbon with gold and green springs provide enough punch for truggy?


i personally run M2C clutch in truggy.....Reg hards on .9's and i run a Clockwork JPX.21

In buggy i run the Stock setup but might change out the stock alum's for KH or M2C but always keep the same stall.....gold and green.
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Old 06-11-2009, 02:02 AM   #8443
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Default Servo saver spring/nut position?????

I've searched and found a few references in this thread but......

The servo saver nut! I can't find anyway to tighten the nut all the way then back it off 2.5 turns. Short of Herculean strength or mechanical assistance, that little nut won't go more than a thread or two past the base of the tube.

Should the nut be screwed flush with the tube, then backed off, or definitely all the way to compress the spring, then backed off?

Does anyone run the nut so it sits below the tube, or will that not provide enough tension for the spring to hold the steering arms together? I'm paranoid that if it were to be any tighter, the first decent crash would see all the force transferred straight to the servo, breaking it.

* I should have made note of the original position (race roller) before disassembling it to replace the bearings!!

Thanks in advance for any help!
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Old 06-11-2009, 07:17 AM   #8444
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as long as the tension is there....it should be fine...but from personal experience...i know 1-2 threads is too loose...you need to get some Pliers and crank that nut further....dont worry about gouging it up too bad...you can always replace it.
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Old 06-11-2009, 07:21 AM   #8445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superlapS15 View Post
I've searched and found a few references in this thread but......

The servo saver nut! I can't find anyway to tighten the nut all the way then back it off 2.5 turns. Short of Herculean strength or mechanical assistance, that little nut won't go more than a thread or two past the base of the tube.

Should the nut be screwed flush with the tube, then backed off, or definitely all the way to compress the spring, then backed off?

Does anyone run the nut so it sits below the tube, or will that not provide enough tension for the spring to hold the steering arms together? I'm paranoid that if it were to be any tighter, the first decent crash would see all the force transferred straight to the servo, breaking it.

* I should have made note of the original position (race roller) before disassembling it to replace the bearings!!

Thanks in advance for any help!
that's weird. i've never had probs screwing in the servo saver nut, and i'm a skinny weakling .
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