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Old 04-23-2009, 10:09 AM   #8356
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Inserts should solve that but the diff still might require a bit of shimming....a couple .1's or .2's under the Flanged bearing on the Ring gear side will push the mesh just a hair out and take that funny feeling out of the mesh.
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Old 04-23-2009, 11:05 AM   #8357
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so the aluminum inserts and shims will fit in a 1.0? i thought they were only for 2.0 kits. if so, i'll definitely give this a try.
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Old 04-23-2009, 12:27 PM   #8358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unsp0ken View Post
so the aluminum inserts and shims will fit in a 1.0? i thought they were only for 2.0 kits. if so, i'll definitely give this a try.
The 2.0 ally inserts will not fit the 1.0 diff housing, they are slightly different but just get the 1.0 inserts... but the dimension haven't changed so you can still shim it.
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Old 04-23-2009, 01:17 PM   #8359
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1.0 alum diff insets WILL NOT work in the 2.0 case nor vice versa...they have different part #'s for a reason.
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Old 04-23-2009, 02:24 PM   #8360
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thanks guys, i just called a lhs and they have the 1.0 aluminum inserts in stock, as well as some gearbox shims. i'll give it a shot.
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Old 04-30-2009, 08:04 PM   #8361
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anybody have to grind there center diff assembly down a bit to allow smooth travel of the throttle body?

I'm setting up the throttle linkage on my 8 right now and the opposite side of the ball rubs on the diff housing if I want my linkage to be even close to parallel with the chassis.
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Old 04-30-2009, 08:08 PM   #8362
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Yes. This was what many people did to clear the carb slide when setting them up last year. For some reason some carbs will clear just fine and some won't. I have the most issues with the 1.0 Truggy, had to be sanded down. My buggy was never filed/sanded down to clear any carburetors yet.
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Old 04-30-2009, 08:26 PM   #8363
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yea, my carb barely clears. can't you reposition the carb to work better for you?
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Old 04-30-2009, 08:34 PM   #8364
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OF course you can. Just loosen the carb bolt and adjust the carb. Some engines have the carb slide on either side of the engine from the factory. So they have to be turned around. No big deal. Some engines are sent with the carbs loose so they can be adjusted when setting up your linkages and servo EPA's.
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Old 04-30-2009, 09:36 PM   #8365
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I figured sliding the carb a bit was the easiest answer. I guess thats better than taking a dremel to the diff housing.
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Old 05-01-2009, 01:13 AM   #8366
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I forgot to mention. The ultimate goal is for the servo to "pull the carb as straight as possible." So some carbs needed to be rotated enough to interfere with the center diff top plate. Usually sanding 2-3mm off the diff top plate is no big deal. It's easy. But remember to try to get the servo to pull the carb straight out and then straight back in.

Also set the EPA on the throttle side so when the servo is at full throttle, you still have about 2mm of carb travel left when pulling on the linkage. If you leave this 2mm of travel in the carb the carb will be just past wide open anyways. If this is hard to understand pull the airfilter boot off the carb. Look into the carb so you can see the barrel move back and forth. Pull the radio trigger to full throttle and notice exactly where the carb barrel is when the carb port is fully open. There is usually another couple of mm travel left after wide open. I hope this makes sense.

Maybe I should take some pics or something. It's been several months since this discussion has been brought up. I'd take some pics now but my cars and engines are packed up.
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Old 05-01-2009, 06:50 AM   #8367
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Dremeling the center diff top plate will let you rotate the carb for the best fit and it doesn't hurt anything. Mine's Dremeled right up to the metal insert. You want to be able to pull the barrel out as straight as possible, esp. with a composite carb and if using a TRS. My carb ball stud usually ends up about the 7 o'clock position after I'm done so that I get a nice straight pull AND the linkage is parrallel with the top of the servo case.
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Old 05-01-2009, 06:52 AM   #8368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by air8 View Post
I forgot to mention. The ultimate goal is for the servo to "pull the carb as straight as possible." So some carbs needed to be rotated enough to interfere with the center diff top plate. Usually sanding 2-3mm off the diff top plate is no big deal. It's easy. But remember to try to get the servo to pull the carb straight out and then straight back in.

Also set the EPA on the throttle side so when the servo is at full throttle, you still have about 2mm of carb travel left when pulling on the linkage. If you leave this 2mm of travel in the carb the carb will be just past wide open anyways. If this is hard to understand pull the airfilter boot off the carb. Look into the carb so you can see the barrel move back and forth. Pull the radio trigger to full throttle and notice exactly where the carb barrel is when the carb port is fully open. There is usually another couple of mm travel left after wide open. I hope this makes sense.

Maybe I should take some pics or something. It's been several months since this discussion has been brought up. I'd take some pics now but my cars and engines are packed up.

X2 well said Air.

I currently got no Cam...so no pics comin from here.
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Old 05-01-2009, 07:07 AM   #8369
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If you haven't done it already, go to the Losi site and download the addendum on how to set up your throttle linkage. It will explain everything we're talking about and then some.
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Old 05-01-2009, 08:51 AM   #8370
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i had to rotate the carb to the right side a little bit and i had to cut 2 coils off the throttle spring cause i could not get the losi spring alined with the carb without compress to much and the spring is way to stiff ,i did have to set the throttle epa to 60 % with the carb showing about 1/12 before wide open but its still full throtte the paper losi gives u tells u you dont want it fully open. i have the radio tray stiffer but if i went any higher i would stress the servo out and i flexed a lot know matter what i did. i would try that it works
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