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Old 04-06-2009, 12:53 PM   #8311
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Originally Posted by JEB21 View Post
Any suggestions on NIMH RX packs are you guys using? Good price from anywhere in particular? Something with quality cells.
Check Promatch. I bought a couple 1600 maH RX packs from them end of last year and the price was great.
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Old 04-06-2009, 01:10 PM   #8312
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So do you know anything about it or are you just pulling this from you a$$!!

Yes the tray is revised and different, only the centre rear shaft is longer and the guards haven't changed.
ummm, ok bitter boy.

It was an estimate, but let's see...

new body - 25
chassis - between 75-90
tray (and associated parts)- I dunno, 15?
rear drive - 10
guards (if you want new ones) -, what, another 10?

Tax and shipping? I think that can hit 170.

Thanks for being so constructive.
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Old 04-06-2009, 03:03 PM   #8313
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Thanks for all the help so far guys one more question, how do you think the rtr 2.0 will stack upwith the race roller 2.0. im pretty sure that the roller is better, but the rtr deal is great. you get everything even a starter box. Its 650 for the race roller and 700 for the rtr. idk it looks like the same with a little mor plastic to me.
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Old 04-06-2009, 03:54 PM   #8314
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Originally Posted by JEB21 View Post
Any suggestions on NIMH RX packs are you guys using? Good price from anywhere in particular? Something with quality cells.
im runnin the maxamps 1600 5 cell packs in my 8ight 2.0 and 8ight-t and the both work very good.

check it out:
http://www.maxamps.com/MA-1600-Receiver-Pack.htm
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Old 04-06-2009, 03:57 PM   #8315
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Thanks for all the help so far guys one more question, how do you think the rtr 2.0 will stack upwith the race roller 2.0. im pretty sure that the roller is better, but the rtr deal is great. you get everything even a starter box. Its 650 for the race roller and 700 for the rtr. idk it looks like the same with a little mor plastic to me.
from what it looks like to me is the same way your thinking. that and also if you already have a radio you could sell the DX3S for like 250 as well and then you could put that into upgraded parts or just keep for a new/ another toy to play with!
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Old 04-07-2009, 03:42 AM   #8316
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Questions?? engine lag on rev down

I just finished building my 1.0, installed a Novarossi .21, and started the break-in.

My problem is that after I release the throttle trigger the engine starts to rev down in a quick & normal linear manner (just like any other nitro engine I've had), but then it holds the revs for a few seconds (when it reaches 15-20% left to idle speed) and then finally goes down to rest at idle speed. The carb is fully closed by the servo, no binding. So, I believe its something with the mixtures, or the clutch, or an air leak maybe. Why aren't the revs going down all the way to idle speed in a quick linear manner??

Other than that, the engine seems normal. I was running the stock setup of silver/gold springs but the car needed to be revved really high to start moving, so now I have the silver/carbon shoes & gold/green spring setup (haven't tried it yet to see if it engages sooner). About half a tank of heat cycling (about 9 mins runtime). Carb high needle at rich (3.5 turns), haven't touched the low needle yet.

Help please

Thanks
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Old 04-07-2009, 06:42 AM   #8317
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Originally Posted by RockinRo View Post
I just finished building my 1.0, installed a Novarossi .21, and started the break-in.

My problem is that after I release the throttle trigger the engine starts to rev down in a quick & normal linear manner (just like any other nitro engine I've had), but then it holds the revs for a few seconds (when it reaches 15-20% left to idle speed) and then finally goes down to rest at idle speed. The carb is fully closed by the servo, no binding. So, I believe its something with the mixtures, or the clutch, or an air leak maybe. Why aren't the revs going down all the way to idle speed in a quick linear manner??


Help please

Thanks

Your HSN is too lean . Bring it back an hour each time until it stops .
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Old 04-07-2009, 08:06 AM   #8318
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Originally Posted by RockinRo View Post
I just finished building my 1.0, installed a Novarossi .21, and started the break-in.

About half a tank of heat cycling (about 9 mins runtime).
unrelated, but you've done (or are going to do) way WAY more than just 9 min of heat cycling to break in, right? Say, a half gallon (at least), instead of a half tank? Right?
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Old 04-07-2009, 09:29 AM   #8319
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Running a new engine lean is no good....
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Old 04-08-2009, 11:31 PM   #8320
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I doubt its lean, HSN is at 3.5 turns and bogs when on throttle from stand still, but i'll try richening it a bit and see...nothing to lose.

I've never owned a Nova before but just wondering what the HSN typically would be at when race tuned...give or take?

Kcdzim - I went through 9 mins of heat cycling so far buddy, didn't say I was done but thanks.

thanks guys
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Old 04-09-2009, 08:36 AM   #8321
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If it runs okay at speed and bogs from a standing start then it's your LSN that's fat. The run on you described is a classic symptom of an engine that's lean on top and fat on the bottom.

On another note, anyone have any tips on getting the spring posts in when changing clutch shoes? The first 2 are always easy, but when I put in shoe nos. 3 and 4 and it gets crowded, I always have a helluva time getting the spring post lined up and all the way into the hole in the back of the flywheel. Anybody have a tool they use to hold the shoe in place so it's aligned straight and you can get the pin through?
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Old 04-09-2009, 08:48 AM   #8322
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Is anybody running the +1mm wheel hubs on the 2.0?? if so how do u like them.
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Old 04-09-2009, 03:58 PM   #8323
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Originally Posted by cjtamu View Post
If it runs okay at speed and bogs from a standing start then it's your LSN that's fat. The run on you described is a classic symptom of an engine that's lean on top and fat on the bottom.

On another note, anyone have any tips on getting the spring posts in when changing clutch shoes? The first 2 are always easy, but when I put in shoe nos. 3 and 4 and it gets crowded, I always have a helluva time getting the spring post lined up and all the way into the hole in the back of the flywheel. Anybody have a tool they use to hold the shoe in place so it's aligned straight and you can get the pin through?
Here's what I do. On all four of the pins I slightly grind/sand a bevel on one side. Don't make a "point." Just a bevel on one edge. This will allow the pin to start into the back of the flywheel. I push the shoe against the flywheel as much as I can. The turn the pin back and forth a bit to work it into the hole in the back of the flywheel.

The clutch spring holds the shoe out of alignment slightly with the rear hole. After pressing the shoe agains the flywheel you can look through and see where you need to be with the alignment.
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Old 04-14-2009, 03:15 PM   #8324
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i have a question about the eight stock clutch i put enough washers where there is just a tick of play and it still spins freely ,do i need to have more play so the bearings will last im thinking since that the bearings are larger then most clutch bearings that it would be fine and last long
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Old 04-14-2009, 03:33 PM   #8325
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Hey tc5 man I put my clutch together as the book shows. I think it goes great! And never burned up a set of bearings.
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