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Old 02-17-2009, 12:31 PM   #8176
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Thanks! Looks like a guy could save 5.00 and dremel the screws 3 threads up from the bottom on the screw he already owns, that's all Losi basically did...
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Old 02-20-2009, 05:45 PM   #8177
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how do u guys get all them annoying air bubbles out of the shock cause i went up and down slowely a bunch of times and let it set for 10 minutes and a night and they are still there,and when i put the bladder on and cap then bleed them i know for sure they are still there but i dont feel or hear the bubbles and i flick it to like a needle to help them get out, does it make the rebond inconstant . and one of my shocks are kind of tight one going up and down and theres no plastic pieces left on the shock parts at all,and the o rings are fully seated in there in there is now rebond when i bleed them at all. its just one shock they are brand new. do u think they are swelded up or did they give my the wroung o rings. they are brand new
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Old 02-21-2009, 04:50 AM   #8178
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I'm looking at the setup sheet and for the front it has that bump steer up or down option an it shows like a pivot ball...where exactly is that located? Are those the ones on the steering knuckles?
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Old 02-21-2009, 06:12 AM   #8179
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I'm looking at the setup sheet and for the front it has that bump steer up or down option an it shows like a pivot ball...where exactly is that located? Are those the ones on the steering knuckles?


no they are on the anchorman links.
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Old 02-21-2009, 10:05 PM   #8180
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i know this has been asked before and i know its all a matter of personal choice, but hat engine/pipe combo get really good gas mileage and is also good power and not too heavy on the wallet?

ive been running mine electric for the last few years and i want to get back into the nitro seen and just wasnt sure whats the "best" combo.


thanx
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Old 02-22-2009, 01:51 AM   #8181
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I'm not sure what other people will say but my buddy runs a stock VSPEC with a 2050 pipe and gets about 11 minutes out of it. The new Losi RE11 is a 2050 clone but only costs $65. I have this setup ready to go for my new buggy but I'm waiting till spring to run it
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Old 02-22-2009, 06:05 AM   #8182
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On big tracks I get 12 minutes with my Orion Wasp CRF .21 with a JP3 , small tracks about 11 with RB S3 and JP3 . Some engines are really picky for pipes to get the best performance and fuel economy .
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Old 02-23-2009, 10:22 AM   #8183
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Sorry didn't want to read over a 100 pages. Ran my 8 for the first time yesterday while the Batts on the 8E were charging. I noticed the back end really wants to slide out under acceleration really bad. What is the easy fix thicker diff oil?
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Old 02-23-2009, 06:53 PM   #8184
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You can lighten the center diff oil, add kickup in front with the adjustable blocks, or both.




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Old 02-23-2009, 07:09 PM   #8185
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For the 8ight I don`t think you use the .050 wrench . It`s kinda an odd size but nice when you need it .

It is the same price if you buy the set of 4 or the three separate , so you mind as well buy the set and have the .050 incase you ever need it .
you need the .050 driver for the screw on the shock piston.
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Old 02-23-2009, 11:08 PM   #8186
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And the .050" for the linkage collars.
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Old 02-24-2009, 12:57 AM   #8187
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And the .050" for the linkage collars.
and for the clutch pin screws
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Old 02-24-2009, 09:33 PM   #8188
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man i can not get them dam air bubbles out of the eight shocks they are brand new and everything is smooth they go up and down smooth and i tap the shocks like a needle then i let them set for a long time and make sure the shaft all the down ,and when i put the bladder on there goes the bubbles when i take the cap off to see if they are gone, i now them air bubbles make the rebond inconsent do u guys do anything special to get rid of them .i know a couple of times i was getting no rebond how much rebond good for the front or is it the same as the rear.i was wordering whats the diffrence with the 2.0 radio tray does it use the linkage as the losi 1.0 eight
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Old 02-24-2009, 09:47 PM   #8189
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Quote:
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and for the clutch pin screws
Clutch pin screws are actually 1/16"
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Old 02-25-2009, 05:50 AM   #8190
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man i can not get them dam air bubbles out of the eight shocks they are brand new and everything is smooth they go up and down smooth and i tap the shocks like a needle then i let them set for a long time and make sure the shaft all the down ,and when i put the bladder on there goes the bubbles when i take the cap off to see if they are gone, i now them air bubbles make the rebond inconsent do u guys do anything special to get rid of them .i know a couple of times i was getting no rebond how much rebond good for the front or is it the same as the rear.i was wordering whats the diffrence with the 2.0 radio tray does it use the linkage as the losi 1.0 eight
Here's what I do. With shock all cleaned out. Pull shaft down. Put a little less than 1/4 of the shock with oil. Now, push the piston almost to the top of that oil and PULL IT DOWN QUICK. You'll release the trapped air under the piston, and with only a small amount of oil in the shock it will escape quickly. Now let all that air rise to the top. After it has all escaped, carefully fill it the rest of the way. Place the shaft at the desired rebound position. Make sure there is enough oil on the top so that when you put the bladder on it ouzes out. Put cap on. AND NEVER OPEN IT AGAIN UNTIL YOU ARE READY TO REBUILD IT! If you have built it right, you should have nothing to worry about... At least I don't.
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