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Old 02-16-2009, 07:20 AM   #8161
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I don`t see that being needed as neither of my 8ights have had issues of the screws backing out .
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Old 02-16-2009, 08:01 AM   #8162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjtamu View Post
+1 on the Losi hex drivers. Won a set at a race 3 years ago and wouldn't trade for anything on the market. You are also going to want a 1.5 mm hex driver (just get a cheap one for what you're going to do with it) and some 3 mm set screws. There are holes on the underside of the a-arm beneath the screws that attach the shock eyelet to the arm. After you attach the shock, run a 3mm set screw into the hole until it just snugs up against the screw. This will keep the screw from backing out. There are other ways, but that's the easiest.
the set screw's wont help unless you have the new 2.0 screw's with the cut-out For the set screw's to seat into.
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Old 02-16-2009, 08:37 AM   #8163
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X2 the Losi driver's are Top Notch....i Will recommend the nut driver's tho....they do make life soo much easier.
+3 on the Losi tools. Had them for 7 years and no problems!
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Old 02-17-2009, 12:21 AM   #8164
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thanks a lot guys!!

appreciate all the input n advice.

just a quick question before I buy the Losi tool set, is the 0.050" tool used for the 2-56x1/4 screws used to hold the shock piston on the shaft? if not, then what tool do I buy?

Also on the build, any suggestions or warnings? I know of the following:
-EPA + linkage + check for binding
-thread lock shock screws over night before filling with oil
-I have GMK condoms for the center CV's
-I got the X-treme carbon fiber radio top (for looks mainly )

anything else?

thanks again guys!
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Old 02-17-2009, 05:51 AM   #8165
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For the 8ight I don`t think you use the .050 wrench . It`s kinda an odd size but nice when you need it .

It is the same price if you buy the set of 4 or the three separate , so you mind as well buy the set and have the .050 incase you ever need it .
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Old 02-17-2009, 06:52 AM   #8166
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I've purchased and installed a new REAR ring and pinion. (Yes, I did get the rear one). From what I've heard there is supposed to be some break in on these.

The reason why I'm nervous is.

1) I installed the wheels
2) I removed ALL brake drag
3) Picking up the vehicle by the front and pulling it forward, the rear wheels are locked.
4) Picking up he vehicle by the front and pushing it backwards, the rear wheels are locked up.

I did have this on the starter box the other day to break in a new engine and the rear's were spinning in the correct direction and everything. Just seems like this should spin more freely, especially since this is new parts.

If they do require a break in period... How long is this? Does this seem inline with others that have replaced these parts?

Note:
This is not an issue with the diffs, it's definitely an issue with the ring and pinion.
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Old 02-17-2009, 07:04 AM   #8167
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That is pretty typical... Just run it as long as it's close and not extremely tight. I've heard of some of the ring and pinions being a little sketchy from Losi. Mugens have had the same issue... just tight tolerances that's all.
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Old 02-17-2009, 07:04 AM   #8168
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Originally Posted by Integra View Post
the set screw's wont help unless you have the new 2.0 screw's with the cut-out For the set screw's to seat into.
Works fine, haven't lost one yet. Running countersunk screws instead of cap head and then running a screw with a washer (the way the hinge pins are captured on the B4, etc.) is the best way but I keep forgetting to do that, LOL. Briguy, I don't know what your tracks are like, but if you run the tracks here it will happen. It's a common issue, and not just with the 8ight. Right front and left rear will back out. That's why Ofna (I think?) makes a package of 3mm set screws you can buy for just that purpose.
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Old 02-17-2009, 07:22 AM   #8169
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Ofna Actually makes left and right hand thread screw's for that exact reason.

when i tried the set screw's on my 1.0B they didn't hold worth a bean and backed out anyways...the screw's make the difference.
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Old 02-17-2009, 07:59 AM   #8170
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Since there are two holes in the arm one is unused. Put a SMALL counter sink type screw in the hole next to it so that it overlaps the cap head. That screw will never back out again. The screw must be small enough to not come out the back side of the hole and rub on the shock shaft eye.

On a truggy you can put longer screws on with a nyloc nut.
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Old 02-17-2009, 08:17 AM   #8171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertbird View Post
Since there are two holes in the arm one is unused. Put a SMALL counter sink type screw in the hole next to it so that it overlaps the cap head. That screw will never back out again. The screw must be small enough to not come out the back side of the hole and rub on the shock shaft eye.

On a truggy you can put longer screws on with a nyloc nut.
this works well... This is what I've done.
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Old 02-17-2009, 10:52 AM   #8172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertbird View Post
Since there are two holes in the arm one is unused. Put a SMALL counter sink type screw in the hole next to it so that it overlaps the cap head. That screw will never back out again. The screw must be small enough to not come out the back side of the hole and rub on the shock shaft eye.

On a truggy you can put longer screws on with a nyloc nut.
Yeppers, that's the best way. I still like it with the countersunk screw for mounting and then capture at with a caphead and washer. Saw someone's like that and it was very clean looking. Maybe I'll remember to do it before RCP TX this weekend, LOL.
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Old 02-17-2009, 11:57 AM   #8173
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get the 2.0 screw's and you'll never have to think about a screw backing out ever again.
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Old 02-17-2009, 12:00 PM   #8174
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get the 2.0 screw's and you'll never have to think about a screw backing out ever again.

Part number please...
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Old 02-17-2009, 12:09 PM   #8175
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Part number please...
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/30457
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