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Old 10-18-2008, 02:07 PM   #7951
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Yo Integra, THANKS a lot man!
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Old 10-18-2008, 07:46 PM   #7952
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great timing on this one! now I know why my stearing took a shit
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Old 10-18-2008, 09:51 PM   #7953
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When i FIRST got the adjustable's I KNEW something was up when i matched it to the stock plates with the Toe/Anti setting's they had originally printed.....and supposedly these measurements were done by a Machinist...so we can be assured those are the 100% real #'s.
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Old 10-19-2008, 11:03 AM   #7954
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hi any info on the front braces would be good what dose kick up do?
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Old 10-19-2008, 03:42 PM   #7955
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Default Stripped Cooling head hex screw!

Hello. I was putting my cooling head back on the motor today after putting some after run oil in the cylinder I accidently stripped the head of one of the hex screws. Luckily it stripped when it was tightened down but now, the next time I have to take off the head I'm gonna be in a jam. The motor is the Mach 27 that came with my 8ight. Any ideas on how to get this thing out now? I have a set of bits and reverse screw heads for things like this but none are small enough to fit down the cooling head hole. It looks like there may be room to cut the screw off between the bottom of the cooling head and the top of the engine block, maybe with a flat copping saw blade. Anyone ever have this happen and if so, what did you do to get the screw out, short of buying a new engine?
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Old 10-19-2008, 03:53 PM   #7956
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Runaway Jim View Post
Hello. I was putting my cooling head back on the motor today after putting some after run oil in the cylinder I accidently stripped the head of one of the hex screws. Luckily it stripped when it was tightened down but now, the next time I have to take off the head I'm gonna be in a jam. The motor is the Mach 27 that came with my 8ight. Any ideas on how to get this thing out now? I have a set of bits and reverse screw heads for things like this but none are small enough to fit down the cooling head hole. It looks like there may be room to cut the screw off between the bottom of the cooling head and the top of the engine block, maybe with a flat copping saw blade. Anyone ever have this happen and if so, what did you do to get the screw out, short of buying a new engine?
take the others out drill the head out the bad screw then buy a new one
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Old 10-19-2008, 04:32 PM   #7957
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Baja my bad on the inserts for got to add 1's up in the front to get 3 antisquat.


More kick up will go thru the bumps better. It should act a little stiffer and support the front more. This will also change the effective caster. More caster should make the steering imput slightly less aggressive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Runaway Jim View Post
Hello. I was putting my cooling head back on the motor today after putting some after run oil in the cylinder I accidently stripped the head of one of the hex screws. Luckily it stripped when it was tightened down but now, the next time I have to take off the head I'm gonna be in a jam. The motor is the Mach 27 that came with my 8ight. Any ideas on how to get this thing out now? I have a set of bits and reverse screw heads for things like this but none are small enough to fit down the cooling head hole. It looks like there may be room to cut the screw off between the bottom of the cooling head and the top of the engine block, maybe with a flat copping saw blade. Anyone ever have this happen and if so, what did you do to get the screw out, short of buying a new engine?
If you can't get to the screw head you could always dremel the cooling head off and replace it with another one.
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Old 10-19-2008, 10:54 PM   #7958
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The time has come for me to service the diffs in my 8ight. Removing the middle and rear are pretty straight forwards but what is the deal with removing the front diff? I read somewhere that you have to remove that spacer and it makes it easier?

If someone would be so kind as to post the steps for removing the front diff in the most efficient way that would be a great help.

Much thanks.
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Old 10-19-2008, 11:02 PM   #7959
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Originally Posted by Jonro View Post
The time has come for me to service the diffs in my 8ight. Removing the middle and rear are pretty straight forwards but what is the deal with removing the front diff? I read somewhere that you have to remove that spacer and it makes it easier?

If someone would be so kind as to post the steps for removing the front diff in the most efficient way that would be a great help.

Much thanks.
Take the entire front end off and apart. Then dis-assemble to get the diff out. This way you can inspect all of the front end components.
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Old 10-19-2008, 11:09 PM   #7960
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The front is almost the same as the rear.

Take your front end off, 6 screws on the bottom of the chassis and 1 on the top of the chassis brace.
Then you will need to take the sway bar off like the rear.
After that you'll see there is 6 screws holding the front of the gearbox on.

Also look in your manual for the exploded parts view & instructions on how to assemble the front end.
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Old 10-19-2008, 11:09 PM   #7961
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I rebuild my diffs every 2 to 3 races. but I should be doing it more often, if i have time, so that it doesnt cause bad luck.
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Old 10-20-2008, 05:51 AM   #7962
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonro View Post
The time has come for me to service the diffs in my 8ight. Removing the middle and rear are pretty straight forwards but what is the deal with removing the front diff? I read somewhere that you have to remove that spacer and it makes it easier?

If someone would be so kind as to post the steps for removing the front diff in the most efficient way that would be a great help.

Much thanks.
There's a spacer that sits beneath the top plate thta your steerign rack is connected to, probably what you're talking about. Look in your manual, you'll see it. Just take out the 2 screws that hold it in, makes it easier to remove the front end.
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Old 10-20-2008, 05:59 AM   #7963
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I just remove the sway bar and diff housing screws and loosed the screws under the chassis enough to get the diff housing out of the hole and pop the diff cover and diff out .
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Old 10-20-2008, 04:49 PM   #7964
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The gearbox will swing out of the way with the swaybar still mounted. I don't like to mess with those tiny screws Lazyness I guess.

I too like to remove the whole front clip. That way you can inspect everything a little closer (like cornerspeed mentioned).
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Old 10-29-2008, 02:01 PM   #7965
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hey guys, anyone having problems with the fuel tank on the 8ight-t? I know they have the spring and lid on ebay for replacement, but is it a problem point?

Mine won't go to WOT. Gets to a bit less than half RPM and dies. Tried everything, then swapped in a different tank off my ofna, and it revved full throttle fine without issues

Fuel filter is good - used pipe tape, no leaks. Tested tank underwater, I may not be blowing hard enough but it was ok. I used a pressure vacuum thing (mity-vac) and got some bubbles at the lid, but that may have been too much pressure.

So far things point to tank (tubing is new..). Anyone else have issues with it? Just replace cap and spring and good to go? Opinions?

Thanks!
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