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Old 11-16-2006, 10:23 PM   #781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron
Topher - No blanket fix yet. You brought up a good point with getting the carb to pull out smoothly throughout the travel.

just wondering......are the servos that are going bad, are they digital.....or anolog? or has it made a difference?
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Old 11-16-2006, 11:10 PM   #782
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Quote:
Originally Posted by *Topher*
Aaron,

Any news on what Losi is doing or suggesting to fix the throttle servo issue? I had several people check my setup over and it wasn't straining the throttle on the brakes but the one thing we noticed was once the servo pulled the carb out over half way it had to work harder because the carb was at an angle. I tried reducing it as much as possible but couldn't get it perfect like it would be in other cars.

By the way the car handled great.
Your slide might be slightly gummed up with fuel residue. Try adding a couple drops of afterun oil on the slide and see if it works smoother.
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Old 11-16-2006, 11:30 PM   #783
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I have ruined 2 nice servos so far 94357,94360. I have the 94359 on there now with a smarter linkage setup and it seems to be fine.

The two fixes I used on mine was not aligning the servo arm parallel but putting some angle away from carb. I still have plenty of throw to open carb.

I also made the rubber tubing on the brake linkages 2 mm longer than the manual says so that the arm does not have to travel so far to engage brake and sent the opposing side(throttle) so far back into carb.

EPA on brake and throttle seem to in great shape with no noticible flex in radio tray or on motor or brakeparts.

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Old 11-17-2006, 05:30 AM   #784
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridgewaybodies
Your slide might be slightly gummed up with fuel residue. Try adding a couple drops of afterun oil on the slide and see if it works smoother.
It is a new engine that was just broke in.
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Old 11-17-2006, 05:36 AM   #785
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Topher-alot of people are experiencing the same thing. You need to play with the angle of the carb, and the position of the slide, the piece where the ball cup pulls the slide open, you have to loosen it slightly, and then open and close the carb by pulling on the servo horn, and manually going through the full range of the slide. Hope this helps.
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Old 11-17-2006, 06:14 AM   #786
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Miskolczi
Topher-alot of people are experiencing the same thing. You need to play with the angle of the carb, and the position of the slide, the piece where the ball cup pulls the slide open, you have to loosen it slightly, and then open and close the carb by pulling on the servo horn, and manually going through the full range of the slide. Hope this helps.
exactly
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Old 11-17-2006, 06:36 AM   #787
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Cheapshotcough cheapshot.

Thats the only issue ive had with the car, and once you have it right its set it and forget it.

The car handles like a dream, and is super consistant, and the harder you drive it the faster you go. You do not have to drive it hard to go fast like amny other cars. It drives like a 4wd electric buggy, very smooth and handles rough and loose tracks very well, ill be trying it out this weekend on high bite clay, where I run slicks, ill report back and let everyone know how the car works, and the changes ive made ti make it better.
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Old 11-17-2006, 08:51 AM   #788
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What is the size of the inner bearing on the 8IGHT clutch?

Here's a link to the two bearings. I need the size please. (Larger one)

Is there also a ceramic bearing available too (Aftermarket)

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/8947

Thank you!

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Old 11-17-2006, 09:01 AM   #789
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The inner bearing is a 5x13x4. All of the speks on the hardware are in the back of the manual.
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Old 11-17-2006, 03:30 PM   #790
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dirtracer - I haven't seen a pattern as far as digital or analog servos failing more often.

big chris - That sounds golden. Please let me know if you have any problems with your car set up that way.
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Old 11-17-2006, 09:21 PM   #791
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I was told there's a new motor mount with some really neat features. The first, is it's a two piece, making it easy to pull the motor for cleaning, and to reinstall, and it's longer, and should reduce flex in that area. The second big feature, is you can flip it around, making it easy to run a standard clutch(meaning if I needed to I could run any old 3 shoe clutch). I found this one at A-main...anybody know if this is the one?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/9527
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Old 11-17-2006, 09:33 PM   #792
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I can't tell if the mounts that the engine go on are symetrical or not (if they are not, that would facilitate the means to move the engine forward). The one I have heard about is a King Headz part. It has the flip flop feature. It might not work with some engines, there is VERY little room for the carb to move forward in the center diff/brake area.
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Old 11-17-2006, 11:42 PM   #793
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Hi fellas, I can see that the question im about to ask has been touched on, just wanted to see if there is any clues on a fix or not.

Ive heard the 8ight is having a problem with keeping servos in them? This I hope is not too serious of a problem becuase I was really counting on getting one this month and beg. to get back into racing with this car. I looove the design and ive heard so much good about how it handles. Just lookin for some insight! Thanks!!
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Old 11-18-2006, 12:29 AM   #794
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R40Victim
I was told there's a new motor mount with some really neat features. The first, is it's a two piece, making it easy to pull the motor for cleaning, and to reinstall, and it's longer, and should reduce flex in that area. The second big feature, is you can flip it around, making it easy to run a standard clutch(meaning if I needed to I could run any old 3 shoe clutch). I found this one at A-main...anybody know if this is the one?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/9527
Yea, i can confirmed that a well known co will be coming out with new Losi engine mount with such special mount. check my blog there.
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Old 11-18-2006, 04:28 AM   #795
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king headz is making the engine mount you are thinking about R40. from what i read, they are sending the first run of mounts to the anodizer soon so i would imagine they will be available not long after they get them back in from anodizing.

runnin rc10: from the sounds of things, there are several factors that have contributed to the servo issues. i think that if you mount the servo so it is at least 3mm off the chassis, use the rubber grommets, make sure your linkage is free and lined up well with the carb, maku sure your not bottoming out the spring on the throttle side, have the brakes setup up so they engage as soon as the servo starts to travel in the braking direction, limit your EPA to only lock the wheels up if you slam the brakes on hard (be sure that when you apply the brakes that the servo isn't torquing the servo tray, if it does this, back off your EPA), and lastly be sure to use a high torque servo. the brakes stall out the servo just by the nature of how they work so using a servo that has very high torque will ensure you aren't overworking the servo. if the servo is super strong, stalling it out work bother it as much and it won't have to work as hard as a servo with less torque.

hope that makes sense. if i've misstated anything, someone please correct me!!!

adam
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