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Old 10-06-2008, 03:26 AM   #7906
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The notchy mesh between the rear pinion and the rear ring gear is normal with a brand new kit/roller. Once you "break in" your 8ight the notchy play should go away.
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Old 10-06-2008, 06:49 AM   #7907
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The notchy mesh between the rear pinion and the rear ring gear is normal with a brand new kit/roller. Once you "break in" your 8ight the notchy play should go away.


I didnt feel like wearing my 2 gears together..so i shimmed it right outta the box....Zero issues commin up to a year now.....i also did buddy's the other day Outta the box and it went fine and dandy....i think i used .4-.5 worth of shims....but all cases will be a little different.
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Old 10-06-2008, 07:04 AM   #7908
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Originally Posted by jakeg1999 View Post
I am having the same problem and I am pulling my hair out over it. I have rebuilt the darn diff 5 times in the last 2 hours, putting shims in all locations. I have already stripped two screws that hold the diff case together and am getting very frustrated. The shims don't seem to work at all. The diff is smooth as is, but as soon as I put the screws into the box to bolt it to the rear end, it starts to get really rough. It's the two box halves pressing together that makes it rough....Any ideas? Is the HD box any better? I am getting very frustrated, and the worst part is the darn screws stripping, as I have to spend 20 minutes drilling them out.....
If you are using the aluminum bearing inserts, you need to sand the ends that face the bearing slightly. They will push against the bearing when you put them in the case and tighten the screws, making if feel notchy when it's together. Otherwise, it feels smooth in your hands when out of the case.
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Old 10-06-2008, 07:06 AM   #7909
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My race roller is brand new i am also very fed up starting to wish i had not sold mt x1-cr any more advice would be good as shimming dose not work for me either
underthethumbma, my 2 new rollers were the exact same way. I took the pinion and the ring gear out and checked for burrs. found nothing. put some grease on the teeth of both, put it back together and ran a tank driving up and down my sidewalk. after the tank was finished, the drivetrain was completely free. Everyone told me to do it this way, but it just didnt make sense. However, it works. Hope this helps.
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Old 10-06-2008, 03:57 PM   #7910
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Ok, thanks guys for your help....Shaving the outer plastic insert and adding two shims worked perfectly, now it's buttery smooth. I did have to get a new diff case after breaking off a second screw in it....I also picked up a new allan driver, and it seems to be much better....Thanks again for all your help....that was frustrating.....
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Old 10-06-2008, 07:17 PM   #7911
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Jake Im sure you find this truck to be awesome. Let us know what you think of it.
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Old 10-10-2008, 04:00 AM   #7912
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Thanks for the help i am down my local track sunday and will let you know how it went once again many thanks
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Old 10-12-2008, 12:46 PM   #7913
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I have been down my local track to day and run my new race roller my rear diff is still very notchey can anyone offer me some more advice
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Old 10-12-2008, 01:11 PM   #7914
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I have been down my local track to day and run my new race roller my rear diff is still very notchey can anyone offer me some more advice

shim it....i used the Kyosho .1 .2 .3 kit.
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Old 10-12-2008, 01:42 PM   #7915
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are these the ones t for Inferno 777 SP2 & ST-R

Included are four (4) 4x10mm shims, four (4) 5x20mm shims, four (4) 8x12mm shims and four (4) 12x16mm shims. what size ones shell i use mate
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Old 10-12-2008, 03:20 PM   #7916
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Originally Posted by underthethumbma View Post
are these the ones t for Inferno 777 SP2 & ST-R

Included are four (4) 4x10mm shims, four (4) 5x20mm shims, four (4) 8x12mm shims and four (4) 12x16mm shims. what size ones shell i use mate



these should do the trick

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/4067
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Old 10-12-2008, 07:07 PM   #7917
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quick question, I remember reading something a while back about using the mugen center cvd's on the 8ight. are they a direct fit or do they have to be modded?
also, what ackerman plates are you guys using? I got fed up with the stock one and didnt like any of the aftermarket ones I saw, so I made my own,
3mm CF with bearings instead of bushings
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Old 10-14-2008, 07:36 AM   #7918
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I'm not familiar with the Mugen driveshafts being used on the 8. I'm not saying it wouldn't work though.

As for the ackerman plate, good looking piece you have there. I have always used the long plate cause the short one gave the buggy quicker reaction time than I had. HaHaHa. Now, some people have said the buggy is too twitchy when the steering is tightened back up. I'm sure each driver has his preference though.

so let us know what you think of the comparison. Try each one for a couple tanks and switch back and forth. Post back what you think of it.
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Old 10-14-2008, 10:11 AM   #7919
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the plate is the long one, and there is a tiny amount of play from the bearings, but not too much, raced with it sunday and it was way better than the stock unit. (not just saying that because I made it) had a buddy try it out sunday on his buggy and he liked it too.
if I get enough interest I'll make up some more.
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Old 10-14-2008, 10:14 AM   #7920
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I`d be interested in two , about how much do you think you would sell them for ?
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