R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-09-2008, 05:08 PM   #7816
Tech Master
 
Fabulous's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: WI.
Posts: 1,137
Trader Rating: 42 (100%+)
Default

AKA IBeams best tire I have run so far.
Fabulous is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2008, 11:03 PM   #7817
Tech Elite
 
Drift_Buggy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,646
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

I stripped down my shocks on my race roller today as I am wanting to change the piston and stipped the screw head trying to get the screw off I read in the manual that it has been loctited on I was just going to use a dremel to get it off but what is usually the best way to undo them? By putting pliers over the shaft with a rag?
Drift_Buggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2008, 11:43 PM   #7818
K_B
Tech Master
 
K_B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 1,434
Trader Rating: 69 (100%+)
Default

You can try twisting the piston counterclockwise (like you would the screw) and that my loosen the screw. I've done that with other parts before. I also use a set of dikes to grab the threads at the bottom of the shock shaft, but a towel and pliers works too...
K_B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2008, 12:39 AM   #7819
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 419
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Has anyone tried the Dragon Racing CNC chassis for the 8ight? I'm in need of a new chassis and have seen these on ebay.

I'm sure the Losi Stock CNC and Tuned flex chassis will be better in quality. I mean, "you get what you pay for" My main question is for anyone who has tried or seen the Dragon Racing chassis:

Were there any major problems with it?
phixd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2008, 01:35 AM   #7820
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Texas
Posts: 156
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by phixd View Post
Has anyone tried the Dragon Racing CNC chassis for the 8ight? I'm in need of a new chassis and have seen these on ebay.

I'm sure the Losi Stock CNC and Tuned flex chassis will be better in quality. I mean, "you get what you pay for" My main question is for anyone who has tried or seen the Dragon Racing chassis:

Were there any major problems with it?
I remember someone mentioning these some time ago and someone using the words dragon racing and taco and them being closely related
vroom88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2008, 08:36 AM   #7821
Tech Master
 
Race-Wright's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Northern IL.
Posts: 1,325
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by phixd View Post
Has anyone tried the Dragon Racing CNC chassis for the 8ight? I'm in need of a new chassis and have seen these on ebay.

I'm sure the Losi Stock CNC and Tuned flex chassis will be better in quality. I mean, "you get what you pay for" My main question is for anyone who has tried or seen the Dragon Racing chassis:

Were there any major problems with it?
If you can not afford the Flex get the stock replacement. I herd the same about the Dragon chassis bending. Plus I donít think there is any significant weight savings.
__________________
Gary Wright
Midwest Nitro Series
"Keeping racing simple"
http://midwestnitro.com/
email: gary@midwestnitro.com
Race-Wright is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2008, 12:17 PM   #7822
Tech Apprentice
 
dodgeboy93's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 59
Default locktited shock shafts

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drift_Buggy View Post
I stripped down my shocks on my race roller today as I am wanting to change the piston and stipped the screw head trying to get the screw off I read in the manual that it has been loctited on I was just going to use a dremel to get it off but what is usually the best way to undo them? By putting pliers over the shaft with a rag?
try using a lighter on the shock shaft where the internal threads are then try to turn the piston off or dremel a slot in the head of the screw then remove.
usually the heat will soften the locktite so you can remove it
dodgeboy93 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2008, 12:17 AM   #7823
Tech Elite
 
Drift_Buggy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,646
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Can someone explain camber links. Changing the camber links would change the camber aswell? Is it another way of just changing camber if you don't want t adjust the turnbuckle?
My front tires are chewing out in the inside (mainly the right side)
Drift_Buggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2008, 01:25 AM   #7824
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 97
Default

Any camber hole you change to will require a link adjustment. Its just to drastic of a change. "your tires will have way to much camber - or + " The lower the inner hole, the more you increase roll center. The more parallel the link and arms are with one another the car will have less roll. Try just running the stock setup with less camber. Keep in mind too, the further you mount them inboard the more camber you will have when the suspension is traveling. Sure you dont have a right hand turn you always get on the gas in?
__________________
MBX6
X2
O.S. SPEEDs
Hitecs
M11
DSM
and a Retired 8ight.
MonkeyWrench is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2008, 01:44 AM   #7825
Tech Elite
 
Drift_Buggy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,646
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

The Roller front camber link is in #3 whereas the camber link is in #2 on the kit and most of the setups on Losi site are running it in the #2.
The Roller rear camber link is #1A, kit #4B and setups #4A
Drift_Buggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2008, 04:04 AM   #7826
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Downingtown, PA
Posts: 5,767
Trader Rating: 240 (99%+)
Default

Camber links are an confusing adjustment.
Think of it like this:
The shorter the link the less side bite (traction sideways)
The longer the link the more side bite (traction sideways)

The more parallel the link to the lower arms the less roll the car will have.
The more angled down the inner is the more roll the car will have.

Any time you make a change in length you must reset your static camber.

A shorter link like in most of the setups will allow the car to rotate through the corner and not scrub speed, then when you exit the corner the car should square itself with the front wheels and accelerate.

The longer link like you are running car do two things:
1) it can keep the rear planted in the corner and cause it to push coming out
2) it can keep the car planted in the corner then when you get on the gas to exit it can make the car spin out or continue the corner.

I would start with the easy to drive setup and adjust from there. I think the rear is set at 4A and the front at 3
__________________
***Team driver for Team Associated, Reedy, A-Main Hobbies, ProTek RC, AKA, Race Ready Products, Garcia Graphix and Integy***
Fred Perkins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2008, 08:38 AM   #7827
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 117
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Thumbs up

Is the losi 8ight worth holding on to or is it better to sell it to make way for the new buggy. I am concerned about parts being available and will it still be on the competetive edge with all the other new buggies coming out.
antone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2008, 08:47 AM   #7828
AE
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 254
Default

Parts for the current Eight won't be that hard to find. Losi has always supported non current models with plenty of parts.
Dyno Dan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2008, 08:52 AM   #7829
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 117
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Ok well thats good what about the new supposed 8ight 2.0 thats coming out. The new buggy is going to solve the issues that the current 8ight has and that is definitely going to be a huge advantage over the current 8ight
antone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2008, 01:44 PM   #7830
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 419
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

is it the standard in the 4 shoe clutch to run matching opposite shoes
for example: 2 carbon and 2 aluminum on opposite sides with springs to match
i mean, that's the stock setup.

Would it give a more gradual effect if lets say, you run 4 of the same shoes with 4 different springs: lightest to hardest? or is this a bad idea?

all input/criticism is appreciated.
phixd is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Losi 8ight Clutch building Cvdiver Nitro Off-Road 3 05-21-2008 04:47 AM
Team Losi 8ight Buggy with Brushless Setup RcOneNitro R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 9 04-20-2008 06:04 PM
losi 8ight-t package f/t for brushless lipo setup ColeT R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 6 03-02-2008 11:17 AM
Losi 8ight-t setup F/s ColeT R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 15 02-11-2008 08:51 PM
OS .21 V-spec Cluth Setup on Losi 8ight? RcOneNitro Nitro Off-Road 6 09-03-2007 01:07 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:23 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net