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Old 08-25-2008, 02:07 AM   #7711
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Springs first. If it's too bouncy, increase dampening.

You must run a REAL bumpy track!
Yeah, it is pretty bumpy. Is there any point changing the rears at the same time? It only really feels like the front end
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Old 08-25-2008, 03:38 AM   #7712
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Where did you get those figures and what parts have you figured into your calculations? Seems a bit of a difference in the pricing not the way I thought it would be though.
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Old 08-25-2008, 05:17 AM   #7713
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I have a race roller and still running the race roller setup. I have ran the kit 4 times and now the front end seems really, really loose/soft dampering and bottoms out alot. What is best to do 1st? - Shock Oil, Pistons, Springs?
I just built a kit, and was looking at set-ups, the race roller should have the same springs set-up, but the diffs, are 3k,3k,3k i beleives, where th race car is 5,7,2.. oils should be the same in the shock.. 35wt.. make sure they are built rite, and check your ride height as well..
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Old 08-25-2008, 05:47 AM   #7714
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I just built a kit, and was looking at set-ups, the race roller should have the same springs set-up, but the diffs, are 3k,3k,3k i beleives, where th race car is 5,7,2.. oils should be the same in the shock.. 35wt.. make sure they are built rite, and check your ride height as well..
Yer, the RR setup is pretty well right 4 all. It is a basic setup, that is good 4 an average track. I have hardly changed a thing.
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Old 08-25-2008, 07:52 AM   #7715
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Yeah, it is pretty bumpy. Is there any point changing the rears at the same time? It only really feels like the front end
If the rear 'feels' ok, I'd leave it alone. As a general rule; only make one adjustment at a time. Then you're not left in the cold.

As Jabroni stated, check your ride height as well. That's a biggy. I end up running with the front shafts just below level, then shafts level in the rear. That gives a slight rake to the car.

You may also try bringing the front shocks in a little on the tower, or going to the outside on the arm.

Again, one thing at a time. You'll come across that 'sweet spot' for your driving style and track.
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Old 08-25-2008, 02:48 PM   #7716
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Old 08-25-2008, 05:35 PM   #7717
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Originally Posted by boostfiend View Post
If the rear 'feels' ok, I'd leave it alone. As a general rule; only make one adjustment at a time. Then you're not left in the cold.

As Jabroni stated, check your ride height as well. That's a biggy. I end up running with the front shafts just below level, then shafts level in the rear. That gives a slight rake to the car.

You may also try bringing the front shocks in a little on the tower, or going to the outside on the arm.

Again, one thing at a time. You'll come across that 'sweet spot' for your driving style and track.
What tool does everyone use to measure their ride height or is it just going by sight with the dogbones? To set your ride height do you push the buggy down and wait for it to rebound back up and measure it then or just put it on the ground. I have skid plates on both front and rear. Should I keep them into consideration when doing the ground clearance or just not worry about them? (there 3mm thick)

Last edited by Drift_Buggy; 08-25-2008 at 06:07 PM.
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Old 08-25-2008, 11:35 PM   #7718
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Old 08-26-2008, 04:25 AM   #7719
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Since I use the quick change engine mounts, the stock mounts are free'd up. I put an engine mount screw in the original mount and adjust the screw till it just touches the bottom of the chassis. Then measure from the bottom of the mount to the top of the screw head. that's my ride height measurement.

Drop the buggy from about 10" high and then measure front and rear. I try to use a flat surface, like a counter top, or solid table.
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Old 08-26-2008, 07:20 AM   #7720
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Since I use the quick change engine mounts, the stock mounts are free'd up. I put an engine mount screw in the original mount and adjust the screw till it just touches the bottom of the chassis. Then measure from the bottom of the mount to the top of the screw head. that's my ride height measurement.

Drop the buggy from about 10" high and then measure front and rear. I try to use a flat surface, like a counter top, or solid table.
I did something similar you this, however with a rtr mount i found at the track i red locktited the screw in. one at 27mm for the fron and rear at 29. Since this is where i normall start with ride height for every track i use that for quick measurements. Then i have an AE ride height guage for when i need to make adjustments
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Old 08-26-2008, 11:22 AM   #7721
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Originally Posted by Drift_Buggy View Post
What tool does everyone use to measure their ride height or is it just going by sight with the dogbones? To set your ride height do you push the buggy down and wait for it to rebound back up and measure it then or just put it on the ground. I have skid plates on both front and rear. Should I keep them into consideration when doing the ground clearance or just not worry about them? (there 3mm thick)
I pump the shocks to see where they 'settle'. About 5 times, forcing both compression then rebound. Then I'll go by eye for ride height. Once I get close, I use calipers to even the sides.

I don't use skid plates, so I couldn't answer you there.
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Old 08-26-2008, 11:50 AM   #7722
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what is everybody running for the front anti dive on thier cars i have the adjustable hingle pin braces and just was wondering what the " norm " is
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Old 08-26-2008, 01:31 PM   #7723
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what is everybody running for the front anti dive on thier cars i have the adjustable hingle pin braces and just was wondering what the " norm " is
I assume you mean rear anti-dive. I'm also running the adjustables and using 3t/3a. I really like the setup, seems a lot more nimble than 3t/2a.

If you're speaking of caster/kickup - I'm still running stock with the alum. adjustables.
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Old 08-26-2008, 04:36 PM   #7724
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i installed some aluminum bearing inserts for the rear gear box today and the mesh is very tight and i mean tight!!....everything is lined up well and there is no slop on the pinion and coupler. i ended up having to put a couple thin spacers on the two top screws between the gearbox halves to have the mesh smooth out...
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Old 08-26-2008, 04:41 PM   #7725
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i installed some aluminum bearing inserts for the rear gear box today and the mesh is very tight and i mean tight!!....everything is lined up well and there is no slop on the pinion and coupler. i ended up having to put a couple thin spacers on the two top screws between the gearbox halves to have the mesh smooth out...
you may want to replace your rear gear box as it probably wore from the plastic bearing retainers.
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