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Old 08-13-2008, 07:10 PM   #7606
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I am having trouble getting max steering out of my eight. I am using a 3pk radio, and have the left at 100% and the right is between 65-70%. Anymore than that and it starts to bend the hell out of the servo arm and the linkage. Anyone have any ideas? Pro series race this weekend, and I want to get it right!
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Old 08-13-2008, 10:29 PM   #7607
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I am having trouble getting max steering out of my eight. I am using a 3pk radio, and have the left at 100% and the right is between 65-70%. Anymore than that and it starts to bend the hell out of the servo arm and the linkage. Anyone have any ideas? Pro series race this weekend, and I want to get it right!
I'm not sure what your exact problem is but "FIRST" make sure the front and rear screws that hold the hub and spindle to the a arm arnt hitting on the inside of the spindle when you turn them back and forth. If the screws are turned all the way in and to tight they will hit the spindle and you wont get full travel "lock to lock". Then if thats not it, make sure both turnbuckles are equal lengths and your servo sub trim is set to zero. Then put the servo arm on the servo, it should be perfectly straight and just fall on, reset the epas so spindles just touch the c hub.
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Old 08-14-2008, 12:15 AM   #7608
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I am having trouble getting max steering out of my eight. I am using a 3pk radio, and have the left at 100% and the right is between 65-70%. Anymore than that and it starts to bend the hell out of the servo arm and the linkage. Anyone have any ideas? Pro series race this weekend, and I want to get it right!
Also try disconnecting the servo horn from the servo and moving the steering components by hand. See if you can find any binding at all.

Check your servo saver nut. Sometimes they will back off and rub against the chassis, preventing equal steering.

Try checking the servo saver itself. If you're still running plastic on top and bottom, this will cause unequal steering. Many people put the aluminum servo saver top on to prevent this. With the plastic pieces dirt can get between them and grind away at the plastics, making them "sticky."

Also check your droop screws front and rear. If they are not adjusted equally they will affect your handling. And check your A-arm/hing pin operation. Make sure there is no binding there.

Several of my friends and I will be in Lincoln this weekend. I'm looking forward to it.
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Old 08-14-2008, 02:55 AM   #7609
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Also have u centered the servo or u might have to adjust your endpoints
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Old 08-14-2008, 04:37 AM   #7610
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i ran my 8-buggy for the first time last week and the car was great but i was having problems with nose-diving issues,i will try to work on the setup but since im new to offraod maybe some one has had the same problem,any advice will be appreciated..
Make sure your brakes arnt dragging or sticking. And stay on the gas a hair longer.
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Old 08-14-2008, 05:30 AM   #7611
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Also try disconnecting the servo horn from the servo and moving the steering components by hand. See if you can find any binding at all.

Check your servo saver nut. Sometimes they will back off and rub against the chassis, preventing equal steering.

Try checking the servo saver itself. If you're still running plastic on top and bottom, this will cause unequal steering. Many people put the aluminum servo saver top on to prevent this. With the plastic pieces dirt can get between them and grind away at the plastics, making them "sticky."

Also check your droop screws front and rear. If they are not adjusted equally they will affect your handling. And check your A-arm/hing pin operation. Make sure there is no binding there.

Several of my friends and I will be in Lincoln this weekend. I'm looking forward to it.
As long as it doesn't rain it will be a great weekend!
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Old 08-14-2008, 10:17 AM   #7612
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Just a quick question guys, I am sure this has been asked a bunch of time already. What parts are necessary to convert the RTR 8ight buggy to the pro version? Aside from the obvious the shock caps, shock towers, and chassis. Any internal pieces parts that are different? I appreciate any and all answers that are given
You'll need to change the shock caps too. I only know that because a new guy at my local track busted the plastic shock cap on his 8ight RTR. The ones from my kit version are aluminum. This won't affect performance, but the plastic ones could cost you a race if they break.
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Old 08-14-2008, 08:55 PM   #7613
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is anyone running a fuel filter? what brand/size/where? just bought an 8ight and 8t roller and doing them both gas. although i still think my e-8ight will get more use between the buggies tho.
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Old 08-14-2008, 09:21 PM   #7614
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This is the one I have used for the last 2 years, never has a lick of trouble with them.

http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idproduct=3133
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Old 08-15-2008, 01:52 AM   #7615
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Has any one found an easy way to change the fuel line and hold the fuel filter at the same time, how do others do it
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Old 08-15-2008, 03:41 AM   #7616
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Use a hobby knife. U are changing it. This way the filter stays alive.

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Old 08-15-2008, 06:30 AM   #7617
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Use needle nose pliers to grab the line inside the tank and pull out . Push new line into the tank and grab that with the pliers and pull up enough so you can put the filter back on .
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Old 08-15-2008, 08:20 AM   #7618
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Originally Posted by thecman26 View Post
This is the one I have used for the last 2 years, never has a lick of trouble with them.

http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idproduct=3133
thanx for the info. where did you mount it?
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Old 08-15-2008, 01:07 PM   #7619
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thanx for the info. where did you mount it?
I have it between the fuel line tabs on this side of the tank
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Old 08-16-2008, 02:15 AM   #7620
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Originally Posted by Nay0k View Post
Pink = soft
Red = soft/medium
Blue = medium/hard
Silver = hard
if it's losi comp's we're talking about it goes
silver= soft
red= hard
pink= clay m/s
blue m/h longwear
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