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Old 08-03-2008, 11:48 PM   #7546
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Originally Posted by Jonro View Post
Ive run into a problem with my flywheel/collet/clutch. Im running a V-spec in my 8ight.

And i set my clutch up in this order: Collet > shim > rear bearing > bell > front bearing > shim > spacer > flat head screw.

Now its been running fine until today when i took it down to the local sports oval to realy open it up to finish break in, it got through about a tank then the fly wheel started to slip on the crank and i thought ok its just a lose clutch nut... no problem, ill go home and tighten it.

Well after getting the flywheel off there was a heap of fine gold shavings all over the front engine bearing and the rear of the flywheel so it looks like the collet has shaved down and is now not big enough to tighten the flywheel down onto, the nut runs out of thread.

Where did i go wrong for this to happen, it must of been they way i built the clutch, was i supposed to use the washer before the collet with the V-spec? because the bell had perfect end play without it with the way i built the clutch as stated above and i though they just included that for some engines that use a different length shaft.

Alot of people run V-spec's in 8ights, what order are people building their clutches in?

I can maybe get around the problem if i now use the washer before the collet(will then give the collet enough length) and play around with the shimming, but where did i go wrong?

Much thanks for any advice.
I don't think it's been asked, or mentioned previously. If someone has sorry.

You are using the LOSI provided collet right and NOT the OS one right ??

As that is very likely your problem if thats the case and no matter how tight you do it up or how much locite you use, it wont be right without a LOSI collet.

Again sorry if this has been covered , seemed to obvious

Rod
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Old 08-03-2008, 11:53 PM   #7547
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Originally Posted by MaTt 93 View Post
Hey Hey it's me again,
well im going to change my diff oil and was wondering if there is any difference between different brand oils. EG - mugen 3000wt to losi 3000wt
thanks
Matt

Losi diff fluid is measured in cps which it will be different then any other manufacture`s diff fluid that is measured in weight .
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Old 08-04-2008, 02:35 AM   #7548
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Originally Posted by Jonro View Post
Ive run into a problem with my flywheel/collet/clutch. Im running a V-spec in my 8ight.

And i set my clutch up in this order: Collet > shim > rear bearing > bell > front bearing > shim > spacer > flat head screw.

Now its been running fine until today when i took it down to the local sports oval to realy open it up to finish break in, it got through about a tank then the fly wheel started to slip on the crank and i thought ok its just a lose clutch nut... no problem, ill go home and tighten it.

Well after getting the flywheel off there was a heap of fine gold shavings all over the front engine bearing and the rear of the flywheel so it looks like the collet has shaved down and is now not big enough to tighten the flywheel down onto, the nut runs out of thread.

Where did i go wrong for this to happen, it must of been they way i built the clutch, was i supposed to use the washer before the collet with the V-spec? because the bell had perfect end play without it with the way i built the clutch as stated above and i though they just included that for some engines that use a different length shaft.

Alot of people run V-spec's in 8ights, what order are people building their clutches in?

I can maybe get around the problem if i now use the washer before the collet(will then give the collet enough length) and play around with the shimming, but where did i go wrong?

Much thanks for any advice.
Never had an issue with this, And I run V's. Washer,Collet,flywheel,flywheel nut,shim,rear bearing,bell,front bearing,shim,washer,threadlock,screw. The only other thing I do from the stock setup is add a machined aluminum spacer inbetween the two clutch bell bearings.It just rides in the bell to keep the bearings and bell more square.
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Old 08-04-2008, 02:51 AM   #7549
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Originally Posted by Briguy View Post
Losi diff fluid is measured in cps which it will be different then any other manufacture`s diff fluid that is measured in weight .

From what I've seen, almost all diff fluids are the same - measured in cSt (centistokes). They may vary a little, but I've yet to see one brand be totally different.

Now, Shock fluid is another tale all together. Some are measured in cTs, while others are "weight". Many times a 35wt will actually be 250cTs. Very strange how that's done.

But it appears there's more of a standard in the diff fluids. Then again, I've only messed with a few brands....
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Old 08-04-2008, 05:07 AM   #7550
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Originally Posted by Merciless View Post
I don't think it's been asked, or mentioned previously. If someone has sorry.

You are using the LOSI provided collet right and NOT the OS one right ??

As that is very likely your problem if thats the case and no matter how tight you do it up or how much locite you use, it wont be right without a LOSI collet.

Again sorry if this has been covered , seemed to obvious

Rod
Yea i used the losi collett i just dident tighten it enough the first time around, after rebuilding the clutch today and letting the thread lock cure ive taken it for a short run and it looks like its going to be ok but im going to take it to the local sports oval tomorrow and really open it up and see if it holds. I don't know if ive damaged the collet to much or not, hence all the brass metal shavings in my prior post but i will have to wait and see tomorrow.

cheers.
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Old 08-04-2008, 11:46 AM   #7551
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Default clutch shoe wear rates.

Hi Guys,

Thanks to all your help previously I solved my problem of clutch bearings failing. CHEERS

Anyway I have been getting low run times with my clutch shoes before they are worn out. I have been running 2 ally, 2 carbon, standard losi shoes with green springs on carbon & gold on alloy. Last week I managed to get a max of 2 hrs racing and they are worn out complete. I had a look at inside of clutchbell (14T) and its quite rough,

So my questions what tips and times do you achieve.

I have now got a new LOSI 14T clutchbell, 2 KHZ 7075 hard Alum shoes & 2 Dynamite Max Life Alum Shoes to try to see if this gives any better life.
What spring setups would you recommend.

Do you do any maintenance between races i.e. sand down the inner clutch bell to make nice and smooth again as new.

CheerS
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Old 08-04-2008, 12:36 PM   #7552
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first off : start by getting a 13t bell, it will be easier on the clutch

second, make sure to maintenance your clutch regularly. Filing the edges at a 45 and using some scotch brite on the inside of the bell and the top of the shoes goes a long way to longer clutch life. If the inside of your clutchbell is rough, and cant be fixed with scotch-brite, its time for a new one.


i always maintenance my clutch before i go to the races, and again before the main.. some would say its overkill but it only takes 5 minutes.
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Old 08-04-2008, 12:40 PM   #7553
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Originally Posted by MikeFriery View Post
first off : start by getting a 13t bell, it will be easier on the clutch

second, make sure to maintenance your clutch regularly. Filing the edges at a 45 and using some scotch brite on the inside of the bell and the top of the shoes goes a long way to longer clutch life. If the inside of your clutchbell is rough, and cant be fixed with scotch-brite, its time for a new one.


i always maintenance my clutch before i go to the races, and again before the main.. some would say its overkill but it only takes 5 minutes.

Actually you can clean up the clutch bell pretty dang good with a dremel with a drum sander .
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Old 08-04-2008, 02:00 PM   #7554
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Originally Posted by Briguy View Post
Actually you can clean up the clutch bell pretty dang good with a dremel with a drum sander .

X2...done it Many of times....and works like a charm...go in steps tho.....and pending on How bad the shoe's slagged out or if the springs were dragging then its time for a new bell.
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Old 08-04-2008, 02:30 PM   #7555
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Thanks for the tips so far.

I will fit the new clutch bell and shoes, any tips on springs to use.

2 KHX ALUM Hard
2 Dynamite Max Life ALUM

I've got a quick change mount so will pull the clutchbell off after qualifiers and Scotchbrite or Sand the inner surface to keep it nice and smooth,

What length of time do you guys get before your shoes are worn down???

Thanks
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Old 08-04-2008, 02:31 PM   #7556
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Originally Posted by btracing View Post
Hi Guys,

Thanks to all your help previously I solved my problem of clutch bearings failing. CHEERS

Anyway I have been getting low run times with my clutch shoes before they are worn out. I have been running 2 ally, 2 carbon, standard losi shoes with green springs on carbon & gold on alloy. Last week I managed to get a max of 2 hrs racing and they are worn out complete. I had a look at inside of clutchbell (14T) and its quite rough,

So my questions what tips and times do you achieve.

I have now got a new LOSI 14T clutchbell, 2 KHZ 7075 hard Alum shoes & 2 Dynamite Max Life Alum Shoes to try to see if this gives any better life.
What spring setups would you recommend.

Do you do any maintenance between races i.e. sand down the inner clutch bell to make nice and smooth again as new.

CheerS
if you have quick engine mount.. it will only take few mintues to do. I usually check them in between every races.. sometimes it can be the bearings, sometimes it can be the shoes cracking or hole has strenched out.. happen to me three times.

I have been hearing rumors about green and gold springs.. i run gold and silver as Mike T's setup. my clutch shoes lasted me two days (practice day and race day). I run 14tooth bell and a eb mod 0S VZB V-spec..
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Old 08-04-2008, 02:32 PM   #7557
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but yet, I still run factory shoes setup.. I heard about all 4 alums.. they didnt like it because it slips at begin of throttle.. So im sticking with carbon and alum shoes still. and its good to have extras..
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Old 08-04-2008, 02:41 PM   #7558
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A poorly tuned engine will eat up clutch shoes, it slips too much before engaging. I went through a set of losi shoes one evening at the track breaking in my motor. Since I've got a good tune on it the shoes have been lasting 3-4 race weekends.

If your running on a high grip surface its going to eat shoes faster.
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Old 08-04-2008, 08:33 PM   #7559
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What the hell is that hunk of plastic in the bottom of the fuel tank held in with a cap screw?
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Old 08-04-2008, 08:37 PM   #7560
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What the hell is that hunk of plastic in the bottom of the fuel tank held in with a cap screw?
I believe it is a spacer to make the tank legal .
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