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Old 08-03-2008, 02:14 AM   #7531
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hi,
what's a good spring setup to use on all aluminium shoes on the clutch ????? And what springs, oil, pistons do you gys run in the front and rear shocks.
thanks,
Matt
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Old 08-03-2008, 02:34 AM   #7532
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Which quick change engine mount? the team losi one or the king headz one? The KHs one looks a little better because its extended for extra stiffening but would like to get some opinions on them.

Cheers.

Losi: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/16844

KHs: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/12776
I can't compare because I only have the Losi one. I will say I couldn't imagine my buggy without it, and I have had NO gear mesh problems what so ever.
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Old 08-03-2008, 07:12 AM   #7533
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hi,
what's a good spring setup to use on all aluminium shoes on the clutch ????? And what springs, oil, pistons do you gys run in the front and rear shocks.
thanks,
Matt
I've been using gold/silver with all aluminum. Anything under that (black or green) made the clutch come in just above idle. Maybe with the right engine, that'd be OK... but I didn't like it at all.

2 Losi Long wears with gold springs
2 Losi Blues with Silver springs

For shocks, I really like the following setup. But it depends on the track.

Front: Silver Losi 40 with 54's 95mm length
Rear: Green Losi 32.5 with 55's 105mm length
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Old 08-03-2008, 07:24 AM   #7534
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Ive run into a problem with my flywheel/collet/clutch. Im running a V-spec in my 8ight.

And i set my clutch up in this order: Collet > shim > rear bearing > bell > front bearing > shim > spacer > flat head screw.

Now its been running fine until today when i took it down to the local sports oval to realy open it up to finish break in, it got through about a tank then the fly wheel started to slip on the crank and i thought ok its just a lose clutch nut... no problem, ill go home and tighten it.

Well after getting the flywheel off there was a heap of fine gold shavings all over the front engine bearing and the rear of the flywheel so it looks like the collet has shaved down and is now not big enough to tighten the flywheel down onto, the nut runs out of thread.

Where did i go wrong for this to happen, it must of been they way i built the clutch, was i supposed to use the washer before the collet with the V-spec? because the bell had perfect end play without it with the way i built the clutch as stated above and i though they just included that for some engines that use a different length shaft.

Alot of people run V-spec's in 8ights, what order are people building their clutches in?

I can maybe get around the problem if i now use the washer before the collet(will then give the collet enough length) and play around with the shimming, but where did i go wrong?

Much thanks for any advice.
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Old 08-03-2008, 08:26 AM   #7535
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jonro get the kh mount...Much nicer then the Losi...the losi has too long of pins and can lead to a sticky motor if any dirt gets on those pins....i even went as far as to polish them up to make it slide on easier....it works..but the KH is just that much nicer....and u get the extra support from the finger mount......anyways....for the collet spinning on the flywheel.....just replace the collet and make Sure to use loctite on the crank nut....all that happened was the nut backed off and u kept on running it enuff to mess that collet up.....make sure to clean the front of the engine real good of those gold shaving's and maby even pull the backplate to make sure nothing made its way into the motor....good luck.
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Old 08-03-2008, 09:57 AM   #7536
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Integra, no hard feelings. I know your just kidding.

But as far as traction, I have had no issues. The track is wet down about every 20 minutes and the soil is awsome! Once it starts to dry up I just power drift around the corners...its reall, really fun!! Remender that I'm geared 3+ so that helps smooth out the bottom end so its not so blunt.

The OFNA blue box is awsome! I read the reviews on Amain for this one and the Losi one and the decision was obvious on which one people were happyest with. This new Jammin motor is tight as a frogs but and it had/has no problem turning it over.
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Old 08-03-2008, 10:29 AM   #7537
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Amain's review's are a Joke if u ask me....u got ideots arguing back and forth between review's and plain old N00bs who have NO CLUE what they are talking about....imo u cant use review's like that as any sort of basis on what people think.....imo it should be set up so u can ONLY review products u have purchased and have personal experience with.
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Old 08-03-2008, 01:01 PM   #7538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonro View Post
Ive run into a problem with my flywheel/collet/clutch. Im running a V-spec in my 8ight.

And i set my clutch up in this order: Collet > shim > rear bearing > bell > front bearing > shim > spacer > flat head screw.

Now its been running fine until today when i took it down to the local sports oval to realy open it up to finish break in, it got through about a tank then the fly wheel started to slip on the crank and i thought ok its just a lose clutch nut... no problem, ill go home and tighten it.

Well after getting the flywheel off there was a heap of fine gold shavings all over the front engine bearing and the rear of the flywheel so it looks like the collet has shaved down and is now not big enough to tighten the flywheel down onto, the nut runs out of thread.

Where did i go wrong for this to happen, it must of been they way i built the clutch, was i supposed to use the washer before the collet with the V-spec? because the bell had perfect end play without it with the way i built the clutch as stated above and i though they just included that for some engines that use a different length shaft.

Alot of people run V-spec's in 8ights, what order are people building their clutches in?

I can maybe get around the problem if i now use the washer before the collet(will then give the collet enough length) and play around with the shimming, but where did i go wrong?

Much thanks for any advice.
Sounds like the clutch nut wasnt tightened down properly to begin with and the slipping has caused the collet to shave down, i had the clutch nut come loose also, what did you use to hold the crank stationary while you tightened it down? I used the O.S crank clamping plastic tool and Cleaned the crank threads and used AE threadlock on the clutch nut and tightened it down really well, have never had a problem since, using the exact same shimming method you are using.
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Old 08-03-2008, 02:28 PM   #7539
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Originally Posted by Integra View Post
Amain's review's are a Joke if u ask me....u got ideots arguing back and forth between review's and plain old N00bs who have NO CLUE what they are talking about....imo u cant use review's like that as any sort of basis on what people think.....imo it should be set up so u can ONLY review products u have purchased and have personal experience with.
Glad someone else checked that out. I wish Amain would clear them out. I swear there's one guy that goes around to all of them.

I still use the review thing to find that one guy/gal that gives an honest opinion. One can usually tell.

But yeah, otherwise, it's pointless.

Oh well, it's the same with Hotels.com, or any news org. hehe. Opinion is the NEW Truth! (for some reason)
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Old 08-03-2008, 05:50 PM   #7540
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Originally Posted by NJA82 View Post
Sounds like the clutch nut wasnt tightened down properly to begin with and the slipping has caused the collet to shave down, i had the clutch nut come loose also, what did you use to hold the crank stationary while you tightened it down? I used the O.S crank clamping plastic tool and Cleaned the crank threads and used AE threadlock on the clutch nut and tightened it down really well, have never had a problem since, using the exact same shimming method you are using.
I don't have a tool to hold the flywheel, but I use a pair of pipe pliers (channel locks) to hold the flywheel while applying pressure towards the engine. This puts pressure on the collet while tightening the flywheel nut. This plus a small amount of blue loctite and I've never had an issue (knock on wood). And each time you take the flywheel nut off, clean the threads of the crank and nut. You want the dried loctite out of the threads so there is little resistance while threading the nut on.

I used to have the issue of the engine turing before the nut was fully tightened. I never tried to run the vehicle though. But I spent much time trying to get the f***er cinched down.
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Old 08-03-2008, 09:10 PM   #7541
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Thanks for everyone's help, yea it looks like i didn't tighten the flywheel nut enough when i first built it and its been grinding away at the collet ever so slowly until now its slipped.

I took the back plate off and used one of the losi plastic shock tools to lock the piston and stop the engine from spinning, cleaned the shaft threads and nut real well... this time i applied a fair bit of thread lock, locked up the engine and tightened it down real hard and it looks like the collet will be long enough still after all, although when i spin the flywheel back and forth it dosent feel the smoothest, there is a slight... i don't know ripple but only slight. The first time i built it it was smooth as butter but of coarse it wasn't tight enough, is this how its supposed to feel when its really tight?

Anyhow im going to let the thread lock queuer for a day then try running the engine and get a new collet in the meantime cause i think the one im using maybe a slight bit smaller due to all the shavings.

I definitely got it tighter than the first time around cause i locked up the engine this time witch allowed me to really tighten it down.
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Old 08-03-2008, 10:14 PM   #7542
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Just keep in mind with locktite fair bit is too much, you only want a small bit when ever you use locktite. And not ALL metal to metal connections need it. Clutch pin screws, clutch bell screw, and exhaust mount screws just dont need it (my opinion). The heat bakes blue lock tight into red on those parts and the allen heads just can not take the torque and strip out. Funny how motor mounts just don't freeze in like those other parts of the engine system do, I always loctite motor mounts.

Now, with that said, the flywheel screw can take more force, by removing the back plate wedging the conrod, and using a socket wrench to remove. Even then, you might want to hit it with a heat gun to save stress on the system when removing your flywheel nut. Heat the shit out of it. Good to hear you have your flywheel problem solved.
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Old 08-03-2008, 10:29 PM   #7543
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Just keep in mind with locktite fair bit is too much, you only want a small bit when ever you use locktite. And not ALL metal to metal connections need it. Clutch pin screws, clutch bell screw, and exhaust mount screws just dont need it (my opinion). The heat bakes blue lock tight into red on those parts and the allen heads just can not take the torque and strip out. Funny how motor mounts just don't freeze in like those other parts of the engine system do, I always loctite motor mounts.

Now, with that said, the flywheel screw can take more force, by removing the back plate wedging the conrod, and using a socket wrench to remove. Even then, you might want to hit it with a heat gun to save stress on the system when removing your flywheel nut. Heat the shit out of it. Good to hear you have your flywheel problem solved.
Well i hope its solved but i don't know yet, im going to let the thread lock cure for a day then reinstall the engine and see how it goes.
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Old 08-03-2008, 10:36 PM   #7544
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Yer as other users have said be careful with how much thread lock u use and you'll be right
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Old 08-03-2008, 11:42 PM   #7545
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Hey Hey it's me again,
well im going to change my diff oil and was wondering if there is any difference between different brand oils. EG - mugen 3000wt to losi 3000wt
thanks
Matt
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