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Old 11-14-2006, 09:14 AM   #736
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the team magic hippo is pretty awesome too. it is very light and no mods.

mugen works too without mods.


I am sure others but those are the two I know.
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Old 11-14-2006, 09:43 AM   #737
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I use the Mugen box... Best box Ive used for any car thus far.
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Old 11-14-2006, 09:49 AM   #738
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyByWire
I use the Mugen box... Best box Ive used for any car thus far.
Yep. I upgraded the motors in mine and it works even better!
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Old 11-14-2006, 09:52 AM   #739
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R40victim - which box is that? Is it red?

FlyByWire - Is the Mugen box the BII.

Are you guys using stick packs or a gel cell.

Thanks guys

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Old 11-14-2006, 10:05 AM   #740
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Ofna economy box I think is still black, just all black

The mugen is the B11, and it is purple

in the mugen box, it is so small you have to use stick packs.
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Old 11-14-2006, 10:19 AM   #741
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I use the mugen purple starter box, and it is the bomb. With 2 3300 battery packs. I broke in a brand new ws7x3 motor with no problem, and no cuts to my finger from useing a screwdriver get the piston unstuck. The only mod i had to do to my box was place a few washers under the starter wheel to lift it up(my box is about 3 years old with a beat up wheel) and it works perfect. Ofna chrome top box is good, but with a gel pack in it, it makes it pretty heavy compaired to the mugen box.The team magic box is really good to, but i havent really seen any in action.
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Old 11-14-2006, 10:21 AM   #742
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridgewaybodies
Yep. I upgraded the motors in mine and it works even better!
I was thinking about changing my motors, whats the best motors to upgrade to, and is the wireing different than the way it is already set up?
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Old 11-14-2006, 10:37 AM   #743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Etter
R40victim - which box is that? Is it red?

FlyByWire - Is the Mugen box the BII.

Are you guys using stick packs or a gel cell.

Thanks guys

Greg

Yep, its the BII. And yeah you use 2 stick packs which = lighter weight, and more voltage. I'll use mine till the motors blow up, then pick up some E-Maxx motors, and be even BETTER!!
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Old 11-14-2006, 11:32 AM   #744
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Has anyone used this starter box with the 8ight? If so how does it work?

Thanks
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Old 11-14-2006, 11:42 AM   #745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Etter


Has anyone used this starter box with the 8ight? If so how does it work?

Thanks

Just look back in this thread... starter boxes were duscussed in legnth a while back...

In general, the Magic and Mugen boxes are the $hit out of the box.. The others work well too, but with a little modification to either the chassis, or the rubber starter wheel.
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Old 11-14-2006, 11:56 AM   #746
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That starter box works great but I have already dremeled my chassis. Its a good inexpensive box. I think I got mine for $50, but you do have to use stick packs for it and its relatively light.
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Old 11-14-2006, 11:56 AM   #747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Etter


Has anyone used this starter box with the 8ight? If so how does it work?

Thanks
That box will work, but I had to remove the front support and drill holes in the top plate to relocate the posts. Otherwise the wheel sits too low in the box. It does work good though after the mod!
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Old 11-14-2006, 12:23 PM   #748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by layedbackguy
I was thinking about changing my motors, whats the best motors to upgrade to, and is the wireing different than the way it is already set up?
I went with these:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJ765&P=ML
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUU50&P=7

I believe the jumper wire that connects the motors need to be wired + & - configuration rather than + to +.
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Old 11-14-2006, 08:36 PM   #749
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hey guys im almost done with my build. Im new to nitro cant wait to get this running. Im trying to figure out the throttle/brake linkage. The carb ballend on my engine is angle way to the right, its butting up against the brake assemby cover. Is there a way to get this to turn the other way.

thanks guys
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Old 11-14-2006, 09:03 PM   #750
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Green, most likely you need a 1.5mm allen wrench and you can adjust it so it is level with the linkage rod. It should be the same hieght so the linkage is at a 90 degree angle to it, not going up hill or down, etc. Then if the carb arm hits the brake area, loosen the carb mount screw and turn the carb until everything clears. Keep in mind you should push down firmly on the carb neck while tightening the pinch bolt, to help avoid air leaks.

Recheck the linkage for proper angles, since it may need readjusting after turning the carb a little and your set.

Hope this helps

...Jim
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