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Old 07-30-2008, 02:26 PM   #7471
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i think u just need a washer....No your local hardware store will NOT have the proper size or thickness of washer u need....go to your LHS and buy some proper shims.
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Old 07-30-2008, 02:55 PM   #7472
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My WS7 came with a collet, but I can't get it to work with the Losi clutch. It moves my flywheel too far forward, and once you get the bearings and clutch bell on, the bell is too far forward on the crank.


I found a shim in my toolbox that I put behind the collet, but the only way I can use that and still get clutch bell endplay is to go without any shims anywhere else on the clutch setup. Will this cause problems for me with a bearing sitting right on the clutch nut? Will I need to go get a proper, thinner shim?
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Old 07-30-2008, 03:14 PM   #7473
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You need to use the Losi collet. The XXX-NT ones are the same ones used for as the 8ight's. http://losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA9376
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Old 07-30-2008, 03:45 PM   #7474
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Yeah, I have tried those. They are too small. They hold for a short while before breaking loose. With one of the shims they come with, I can't get any play at the end of the clutch bell unless I go without shims. The RB collet is too big.
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Old 07-30-2008, 03:55 PM   #7475
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Gotta use the losi collet - it's a different length to work with the losi flywheel.

Is the nut coming loss or the flywheel spinning on the collet?

If the flywheel is slipping on the collet, I suspect you are not getting the nut tight enough since the collet is a taper/press fit. Make sure you are using a crank locking tool so you can get the nut tight.
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Old 07-30-2008, 04:11 PM   #7476
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dski View Post
Gotta use the losi collet - it's a different length to work with the losi flywheel.

Is the nut coming loss or the flywheel spinning on the collet?

If the flywheel is slipping on the collet, I suspect you are not getting the nut tight enough since the collet is a taper/press fit. Make sure you are using a crank locking tool so you can get the nut tight.
Unless the collet needs spacing as already suggested. I believe that is the problem. The clutch nut is simply unable to be tightened enough as the thread stops to soon, so the collect is spaced forward bringing it closer to the thread on the shaft therefore allowing it to be done up tightly

This isn't unusal ............

Hope you get it sorted

Rod
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Old 07-30-2008, 05:02 PM   #7477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Semple View Post
Yeah, I have tried those. They are too small. They hold for a short while before breaking loose. With one of the shims they come with, I can't get any play at the end of the clutch bell unless I go without shims. The RB collet is too big.
Ok you need to use the Losi collet with a washer behind it,this should work,if not email James at Underground rc.com he ran a losi for a while with RB engines.Hope this helps!
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Old 07-30-2008, 05:04 PM   #7478
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I think I have it figured out. The finished product doesn't allow for very much clutchbell end play, but I'm hoping it's enough. I degreased and polished the collet, flywheel and crank, then put it together with the shim that seems too big. I used a really thin shim between the clutch nut and the larger bearing. I also had been trying to make it work with the screw at the end of the crank that was supplied by RB. I switched back to the Losi screw and cone type washer and it seems to be okay. But like I said, the play is minimal, but the flywheel probably isn't going anywhere without the crank.
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Old 07-30-2008, 05:15 PM   #7479
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By the way, thanks for the help, guys. It really is appreciated.



On another note, how are you guys removing your engines from the quick change mount? I don't have a ball driver, so the only way is to take the cooling head off, or risk stripping out the screws. Do you guys have the appropriate size ball driver?
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Old 07-30-2008, 05:26 PM   #7480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Semple View Post
By the way, thanks for the help, guys. It really is appreciated.



On another note, how are you guys removing your engines from the quick change mount? I don't have a ball driver, so the only way is to take the cooling head off, or risk stripping out the screws. Do you guys have the appropriate size ball driver?



Rd logics is the ball driver's i use...they work like a charm.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/7153
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Old 07-30-2008, 08:01 PM   #7481
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Does anyone make a different battery box cover for the 8ight yet?
It seems like one should be out by now.
I just got the Ballistic 2700L 5AA and I'd prefer not to have the corner of the cap sticking up. I have some extra caps and I was thinking about using epoxy
to join a short and tall together and dremel out the center of the lower one.
Sorry if its been covered
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Old 07-30-2008, 08:15 PM   #7482
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When using the Losi clutch you must use the Losi flywheel, collet, and shim. When you don't is when you start running into problems.
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Old 07-30-2008, 08:29 PM   #7483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjtamu View Post
Here ya go. 8ight working on the surface of the moon, LOL. They hadn't watered since the week previous, I guess thinking they were going to get rain when Dolly hit further south. Didn't happen and it was super dusty. Thanks for the help on the clutch springs. Tight corners were the real problem, with it hitting so far up in the mid-range it would push every time I tried to give it throttle in the middle.
holy cow look at that clay..all cracked up like old peoples skin.. man wheres the dry skin lotion??? haha
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Old 07-30-2008, 08:42 PM   #7484
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Have you removed the foam padding from bottom of redceiver box. I had to do this and dremel out the raised portion that the screw from the bottom screws up into to get mine to fit, but it will go in there.
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Old 07-31-2008, 04:39 AM   #7485
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Guys , what is the difference between the race roller and the new
competiton kit ?

Couldn't find anything in the specs apart from the $100 more difference in some stores for the competition kit.
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