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Old 07-29-2008, 10:54 AM   #7456
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Should it be possible to adjust the servo saver nut without removing the entire front end?

Also, how do I know if I've found a good servo saver setting? I did the fully tighten, then back out 2.5 turns and my servo didn't like that, I couldn't move the steering mech. by hand. I made sure nothing was binding. Now I'm going to look for a nice setting, but how do I know when I've found one?

This is a somewhat strange servo saver compared to what I've had on previous vehicles.
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Old 07-29-2008, 11:09 AM   #7457
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does anyone have the quick change engine mount for the 8ight? if u do please pm me, because i need to put it into solidworks for my senior project for college. YES i said SENIOR PROJECT! i convinced my instructor to let me do my 8ight in solidworks! any help would be appreciated.


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Old 07-29-2008, 04:38 PM   #7458
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Hi guys, with the clutch shoes has anyone got any info or knowledge of just running the composite shoes. Is it better or worse? If so what springs should I use
With all plastic/composite shoes, run all Gold springs. But make sure you run a new clutch bell. As a used clutch bell that has been run with Aluminum shoes have the aluminum embedded into the bell. The clutch would slip then and make it worse.

From personnal experience, the all plastic shoes last at least 4 times longer then aluminum/plastic combination.
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Old 07-29-2008, 06:20 PM   #7459
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Default Jumping

Got my 8ight handling great, but when I go over jumps, front likes to nosedive. How is the easiest way to correct this?
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Old 07-29-2008, 06:24 PM   #7460
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My 8T is starting to do the same thing...my 8B is fine though...I decreased some rear preload and it helped a little but like you I'd like to know if I can do anything else?
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Old 07-29-2008, 06:37 PM   #7461
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Got my 8ight handling great, but when I go over jumps, front likes to nosedive. How is the easiest way to correct this?
Nosediving is usually caused by too quick on the rebound. You can try a bit thicker shock oil in the rear to slow the rebound. Don't go too far though, otherwise your buggy may 'act' lazy.

Another cause can be excessive rear droop. 105-106mm shock length seems to work just fine with my track.
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Old 07-29-2008, 09:03 PM   #7462
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finally got my parts for my senior project and wanted to show some progress. heres the chassis so far in solidworks. anyone have any good ideas to speed up my process, cuz this took me about an hour.
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Last edited by jrr102486; 12-09-2009 at 09:14 PM.
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Old 07-29-2008, 09:13 PM   #7463
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Default loose rear end

k need some help my buggys rear end slides out super easy running 352 diff oil. 40 30 shock oil and all my set up is the drakes neo setup any suggestion will be helpful. and the the buggy bottoms out really easy set a all ride heights with gauge. my buggy just does not feel like everyone elses supension feels reall soft and buggy sit low 27mm front and 29 rear is this normal.
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Old 07-30-2008, 01:00 AM   #7464
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k need some help my buggys rear end slides out super easy running 352 diff oil. 40 30 shock oil and all my set up is the drakes neo setup any suggestion will be helpful. and the the buggy bottoms out really easy set a all ride heights with gauge. my buggy just does not feel like everyone elses supension feels reall soft and buggy sit low 27mm front and 29 rear is this normal.
Sure you moved the rear camber link to #4 and the A hole and shock location to #2? If so try a little more camber and a thicker sway bar for more side bite and weight transfer. Not all pro setups work everywhere. If this doesnt help roll the turn then mash the gas..LOL
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Old 07-30-2008, 03:29 AM   #7465
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Also guys, I just bought an 8T and the front tyres are pancaking (expanding) really badly. What is the best way to correct this.
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Old 07-30-2008, 05:49 AM   #7466
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If your front end is unloading, I'd check your centre diff. Make sure it has fluid in it. If it's just your fronts ballooning, this is often a case of centre diff being too thin, or possibly empty, causing the power to unload to the front.
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Old 07-30-2008, 05:51 AM   #7467
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Got my 8ight handling great, but when I go over jumps, front likes to nosedive. How is the easiest way to correct this?
I think that the obvious should be pointed out first: in-air throttle control. When I started racing off-road as a kid way back in the 80's, no one bothered to tell me that I had to stay hard on the throttle while in the air with my RC10 to get it to land flat.

I messed around forever with shocks/springs/rear wings, etc. until someone finally clued me in.

With a 4wd vehicle like these, you should be able to easily control the attitude of the car while in the air by using the throttle (to bring the nose up) or brakes (to bring the nose down).

If you are letting off the throttle while in the air, I don't think any adjustments you make to the car's setup will keep the nose from coming down.

Good luck.
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Old 07-30-2008, 06:59 AM   #7468
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What kind of wear are y'all getting from the stock clutch shoes? Less than 3/4 gallon and mine are toast, worn through to where you can see the inner hole the spring fits into. I put in some KHZ 6061 shoes that I already had but I hear they need frequent deburring.
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Old 07-30-2008, 02:02 PM   #7469
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I just got a new WS7III L2G. Mounted it up, started break-in. My flywheel keeps coming loose on the collet, can't figure out why. I'm guessing that I need a shim behind the collet, because the clutch nut is bottoming out on the threads before it can get a good grasp on the flywheel?

I am using the Losi collet and loctiting the clutch nut, but it has come loose twice during the first tank and a half of break in.

Is this a washer I should be able to pick up at a hardware store? I don't seem to have one that would fit...

Or perhaps the problem is something else entirely?

Anyone else who has the new WS7 on their Losi 8ight, did you have problems? How is yours set up?

Thanks.
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Old 07-30-2008, 02:06 PM   #7470
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Semple, did the RB come with a different collett? Some engines require you to use the one they came with, but I'm not sure about yours.
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