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Old 07-13-2008, 12:09 AM   #7306
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Sorry but i don't understand the benifit of have the brace on the buggy if one end isn't attached to anything Surely you'd be as well removing it completely ?

Rod

well i got told by one of the pros at the my local race tack that haveing the brace still attached at one end gives the buggy abit more support then haveing the brace all the way off.
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Old 07-13-2008, 12:40 AM   #7307
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well i got told by one of the pros at the my local race tack that haveing the brace still attached at one end gives the buggy abit more support then haveing the brace all the way off.
Hmm.. With my two screws out I can pull my rear brace straight up in the air??? I really think the rear brace "Using it or not" is all dependent on what type of track your on.
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Old 07-13-2008, 12:48 AM   #7308
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oh ok, yeah i think that having the rear brace out or unscrewed is more for bumpy tracks.
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Old 07-13-2008, 04:37 PM   #7309
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A few issues with my shock build on my new kit, its to do with the bottom cap on the shocks. Ive built all the shocks and i tightened all the bottom caps by hand snug and tight and after putting all the boots on there is a 1ml gap between the boot and shock body in each shock is this normal?

Related to this is the shock bottom cap o-ring(part no A5429), in all the shocks i put these in the bottom of the bottom cap first then all the white o-rings and spacers in the shock body then screwed the bottom cap on tight... is that correct? In the manual it has the shock bottom cap o-ring first in order so at first i tried slipping them onto the shock body first but they wont go over the threads very easily and looks like they will get damaged if forced so i put them in the bottom cap first then the rest in the shock body and screwed the bottom cap on. Hope that makes sense heh.

Lastly one of the rear shocks, the spring is rubbing on the shock body threads... i tried turning the spring around, its a little better but still rubbing, any advice?

Thanks for any help.
Bump on that question and i want to add another:
My rear bottom swing arms (unlike the front ones which move very freely)are stiff with the suspension off, ive tried loosening the sway bar mounts and set screws and also the screws that go through the rear pivot brace but its still not moving free, does it just need a little running time to loosen them up

Thanks for any help.
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Old 07-13-2008, 06:09 PM   #7310
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Hi. everybody. I have been running the 8 since 2 months ago.
My problem is that I have broken 4 steering servos in this time.
I have heard about this problem in the throttle servo. I Didn't have problem with the throttle servo but I am crazy with the steering servo.
Do you know what is happening with it?
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Old 07-13-2008, 08:20 PM   #7311
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Originally Posted by Jonro View Post
Bump on that question and i want to add another:
My rear bottom swing arms (unlike the front ones which move very freely)are stiff with the suspension off, ive tried loosening the sway bar mounts and set screws and also the screws that go through the rear pivot brace but its still not moving free, does it just need a little running time to loosen them up

Thanks for any help.


u stretch the orings over the body's....then put the cap on.......the springs should'nt matter with touching the body...as long as the spring isnt bent or outta shape somehow......as for the rear arms being notchy.....check the outer pins....I bet there all bent up if the rear end isnt free and floating
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Old 07-13-2008, 08:26 PM   #7312
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Originally Posted by Arushmen View Post
Hi. everybody. I have been running the 8 since 2 months ago.
My problem is that I have broken 4 steering servos in this time.
I have heard about this problem in the throttle servo. I Didn't have problem with the throttle servo but I am crazy with the steering servo.
Do you know what is happening with it?

servo saver too tight......binding steering rack....Old servo saver post thats all gouged up and wont allow any "servo saver action" ?
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Old 07-13-2008, 09:59 PM   #7313
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u stretch the orings over the body's....then put the cap on.......the springs should'nt matter with touching the body...as long as the spring isnt bent or outta shape somehow......as for the rear arms being notchy.....check the outer pins....I bet there all bent up if the rear end isnt free and floating
Thanks Integra, i will give those ideas a go.
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Old 07-15-2008, 07:08 PM   #7314
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Originally Posted by MonkeyWrench View Post
2. Scribe a small line with a x-knife in the tiny piston screw when you add the thread lock this will give the threads more bite.
Not new to RC but new to the 8ight. Are you cutting the line at one end of the screw or the other or all the way down the threads?

Other question.I set my linkage up per the addendum. It says the brakes
should "engage" with just over 1 mm of servo travel but I don't know exactly what they mean by "engage". My brake pads start to move almost as soon as the servo comes off center, but I can't feel any resistance until it's traveled more than 2 mm. Is this right or should the pads hit the disc with only 1mm servo travel? The gap at the screw heads on the pad was set per the addendum and the spring isn't fully compressed (about 9 mm left), and only using about 65% EPA to get full brake.
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Old 07-15-2008, 08:54 PM   #7315
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1. Just a "lite" scribe from the top to the bottom down the side of the screw. Hold the screw by the head with a pair of pliers and use lock tight. When I thread the screw into the shaft I can feel a slight resistance from the scribe.
2. I'm pretty sure that means the point where the brakes start to engage. But its not much further than that they actually should lock up.

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Originally Posted by cjtamu View Post
Not new to RC but new to the 8ight. Are you cutting the line at one end of the screw or the other or all the way down the threads?

Other question.I set my linkage up per the addendum. It says the brakes
should "engage" with just over 1 mm of servo travel but I don't know exactly what they mean by "engage". My brake pads start to move almost as soon as the servo comes off center, but I can't feel any resistance until it's traveled more than 2 mm. Is this right or should the pads hit the disc with only 1mm servo travel? The gap at the screw heads on the pad was set per the addendum and the spring isn't fully compressed (about 9 mm left), and only using about 65% EPA to get full brake.
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Old 07-16-2008, 12:41 AM   #7316
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Default more steering

need more streeing out of my buggy running easy to drive setup tryed drake neo 08 setup but my track has big jumps was to soft. what can i do to get most steering out of this thing. i am using alum steering hubs heard they give u more steering. drove my friends rc8 and thats the steering i like lots of steering never to much have steady hand not a problem like it fast and twichy using hitec 5955tg servo do i just need faster servo? new to nitro but not rc and new too this buggy got hd diffs and alum diff insersts anything else i should built proof?
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Old 07-16-2008, 12:46 AM   #7317
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Default best servo

what is the toqure needed in the steering servo for this buggy what is best servo for it?
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Old 07-16-2008, 07:00 AM   #7318
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Originally Posted by MonkeyWrench View Post
1. Just a "lite" scribe from the top to the bottom down the side of the screw. Hold the screw by the head with a pair of pliers and use lock tight. When I thread the screw into the shaft I can feel a slight resistance from the scribe.
2. I'm pretty sure that means the point where the brakes start to engage. But its not much further than that they actually should lock up.
Thank you sir. Been outta 1/8 for awhile (last car was a K3, LOL), looking forward to running again. Got 1 1/2 laps outta the 8ight before the press in pin on the front CVD bone (to the center diff, not the CVD end) fell smooth out. Car felt great for 1 1/2 laps with the Truhe setup on it though.

Mixedguy, just looking at the setup you're running it should give quite a bit of steering, but I don't have a lot of experience with the 8ight yet. Be sure the bump steer is mounted down and you have the 3/3 plate in the rear. Also, be sure your radio EPA is set so you're getting full lock turn on both sides, then back it off 3 or 4%. You might look at your tire choice and make sure you'r running what the fast guys are. There are just so many things that affect steering and it depends on where you want more. Are you looking for more turn in or mid-corner steering? As far as which steering servo, you're going to get a bunch of opinions. JR, Fu, Air, etc. all make good servos. 175 oz of torque or so is more than enough, I love digital servos for steering b/c they're so precise. I see lots of people go with very fast servos with a lot of torque and they'll actually move the tires so fast that they "scrub" rather than bite into the corner. I've turned steering speed down on several radios for people with happy results.
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Old 07-16-2008, 04:50 PM   #7319
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Originally Posted by mixedguy View Post
need more streeing out of my buggy running easy to drive setup tryed drake neo 08 setup but my track has big jumps was to soft. what can i do to get most steering out of this thing. i am using alum steering hubs heard they give u more steering. drove my friends rc8 and thats the steering i like lots of steering never to much have steady hand not a problem like it fast and twichy using hitec 5955tg servo do i just need faster servo? new to nitro but not rc and new too this buggy got hd diffs and alum diff insersts anything else i should built proof?
So was the steering with the Drake Neo '08 set-up good for you? or not?
Do you need more on? off? or center of the corner steering?

Increase the shock oil wieght or something if it was too soft for your big jumps.

You can go bump steer up and/or short ackerman link.
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Old 07-16-2008, 06:07 PM   #7320
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Just got my 1st LOSI 8B. Love It!!!! My question is what battery packs are you guys running. Whats a good pack and is Lipo worth the extra $ I also don't quite understand if you get Lipo I think you have to have some controller in the battery box. Might be wrong on that one I know one thing the losi batt box is small you probally only have room for the batteries. I'm about to make my 1st trip to the track and want to cover the things I can control. Like dead batteries. I am running a Nomadio react Rx & Tx. Any suggestions for 1st time out at the track are appreciated

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