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Old 07-04-2008, 06:49 AM   #7246
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Originally Posted by Marz View Post
Just grab the Losi quick change engine mount dude.
Allows about 2mm forward movement, so you can use a normal clutch and clutch bell.

This is a nice option but be careful to make sure that you have adequate clearance between the carb of your engine and the center diff bulkhead. With OS' I had to dremel off a little bit of the diff brace and angle the carb a couple of degrees before I was comfortable that the carb slide wouldn't take a shot when the car flexed. That was with the stock mounts, there was not enough room to move the engine forward 2mm.

If you are having trouble with the Losi bells breaking off teeth then the gear mesh might be a little tight.
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Old 07-04-2008, 07:00 AM   #7247
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what is the size of the 2 clutch bearings? ima order those $1 bearings from amain....def a goooooood deal
Don`t know off hand , but they are listed in your parts diagram in the little sheet that comes with the manual .
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Old 07-04-2008, 07:39 AM   #7248
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inner 5x13mm
outer 5x10mm
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Old 07-04-2008, 09:45 AM   #7249
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Originally Posted by Geo Y-Rock View Post
Use the cvd condoms. If the set screw lets go, the condom will contain the pin.

GMK0119 GMK Supply "CVD Condoms" (Team Losi 8ight/8ight-T)

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ive found these to rust out the cvd no matter what kind of lube i used....im running no boots and just lubing when needed and preying the pin wont come loose.
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Old 07-04-2008, 09:48 AM   #7250
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ive found these to rust out the cvd no matter what kind of lube i used....im running no boots and just lubing when needed and preying the pin wont come loose.

Really ? I`ve had them on my buggy ever since they came out and I check them every time I go through my diffs and no rust at all . You must be going through water or mud , or storing it in an unconditioned area .
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Old 07-04-2008, 10:01 AM   #7251
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Really ? I`ve had them on my buggy ever since they came out and I check them every time I go through my diffs and no rust at all . You must be going through water or mud , or storing it in an unconditioned area .


my track is BONE dry 99.9% of the time....and i store everything in my basement shop....which is all AC'd.....so i dunno.

and on another note.....buddy's 5T's i just wrapped shrink around the center's....and i was lookin at his last night....and its all rusty too...but they were run 100% dry tho.
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Old 07-04-2008, 04:48 PM   #7252
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Is there a parts list somewhere that can make it easier for me to find out which bearings in what size and quantity I'd need to do a complete bearing replacement in my 8ight buggy?

I want to do a complete bearing replacement but can't find a parts list to tell me what sizes and quantities I need.


I guess I could always look through the manual and write down every bearing I see...

I figured Avid, etc. would have bearing sets for each car. Like Tony's screws has screw sets for each car.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 07-04-2008, 05:04 PM   #7253
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4- 8X14X4 outter wheel bearings.
4- 1/2"x3/4" inner wheel bearings.
6- 8x14x4 Flanged for diffs
4- 5x11-4 pinions
4- 6x10x3 steering rack
1- 5x10x4 clutch
1- 5x13x4 clutch


i think thats it...thats off the top of my head.
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Old 07-04-2008, 10:17 PM   #7254
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Originally Posted by Integra View Post
ive found these to rust out the cvd no matter what kind of lube i used....im running no boots and just lubing when needed and preying the pin wont come loose.
Yeah, I did have a little bit of rust also. Here in the Midwest, it's so humid. But the rust wasn't an amount that would cause damage. I little WD40 and you're good to go.
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Old 07-05-2008, 04:58 AM   #7255
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Ive run into a problem with my build, im up to Im building the front spindle and CV assembly(step B-05). IT seems like the axle dosent stick out far enough from the spindle to allow the pin to slide through the wheel hex and axle, the hole dosent open up enough but with the wheel hex off there is just enough room to get the pin through and i mean JUST ENOUGH its very tight.

Now ive made sure both bearings are in the spindle as far as they can go, they are fluch with the outer edges. So it seems like ether the axle is to short or they have put the hole in the axle too close to the spindle to allow the pin to go through or im doing something wrong but i really cant see what it is!

BTW: its happening on both spindles, axles and pins.

Here are some picks:
Click for larger image's



With the wheel hex on its even worse and there's no way i can get the pin to go through, what am i doing wrong? Or has losi screwed up and punched the holes out of alignment?
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Old 07-05-2008, 05:30 AM   #7256
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I can see one being screwed up but not both . Sure you have the cvds seated into the inner bearing correctly ?
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Old 07-05-2008, 05:42 AM   #7257
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i bet that the inner bearings are not seated all the way they should not be flush but recessed quite a bit! if you have new hubs you ussually have to push the bearing really hard to get it seat also check to make sure the inner hub is very clean!! hope this helps
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Old 07-05-2008, 06:49 AM   #7258
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Yep great advice, it was the inner bearing... i thought i had it in pretty hard but after i took to it with a small hammer with a rag wrapped around it a few times it went in another mil and the hex's and pins are in nicely now. It really dosent clarify how far in the bearings should sit in the instructions

Ty for the advice.
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Old 07-06-2008, 11:48 AM   #7259
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Default steel vs aluminum fly wheel

What kind of performace change will I see by using a steel fly wheel instead of the aluminum on an 8T?
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Old 07-06-2008, 12:41 PM   #7260
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Smoother clutch engagement since it takes longer to wind up.
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