Integra

iTrader: (8)

are u sure u didnt install the inserts backwards...and maby Not notice the notchyness of the diff...then ran it till it blew up....cuz they do state in the manual that if u inserts them the wrong way the diff will bind up....and that + not noticing it right away could 100% cause catatrophic failure im sure......hey its a thought.

Semple

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, you are extremely helpful as usual.


So, how will I know with that Losi RX pack when it's time to charge? I've heard if you leave a lipo battery too long and it drops below a certain voltage, it'll dump in seconds and be impossible to recover?

Integra

iTrader: (8)

basically if your are running ALL DAY...like multiple hours of running....then i would highly reccomend getting a Dynamite Sentry to check the voltage througout the day....i can run for at least 1-1.5 hrs without even having to think about charging....but sometimes if i practice a little more then normal in the morning...ill have about 4-500 mah left...so pending on how long your race day is....it'll depend if u need to bother with a repeak or not....here's that Sentry thing

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/18740

TfnG

iTrader: (27)

i have another question...this one i cant find any answers to. i was running the buggy on my track tonight and everything is finally breaking in and running so awesome. so, coming around a turn and getting on the gas when NOTHING happened but revving engine and no movement. so i stopped...gave it a little gas a few times and the engies revs perfect, but the car does not move. you can see it kinda wants to creep but nothing really.

so i let the car cool down for 10 minutes or so and start it back up. the car creeps when you give it throttle but its like the clutch is slipping really bad? the buggy has close to a gallon ran through it now and its a completely stock RTR. i dont really see why this would be a diff problem...so im definitely thinking clutch? is there somewhere that shows how to check the clutch...or if there is any adjustment to the clutch? any ideas?

whoajoe

Maybe the pins that connect the center driveshafts to the front and rear diffs came out. A possibility.

badassrevo

iTrader: (12)

Since you are running the RTR clutch you are missing two shoes. Get a complete clutch set all four shoes and build it like thr kit version and go have more fun.

TfnG

iTrader: (27)

i figured the RTR clutch was weak. so whats the hot set up for a new clutch? ive seen lots on here saying something about using 2 gold shoes and 2 blacks? what brands are these? anything else i should replace while in there? anywhere i can find a guide or instructions for changing the clutch?

Matt M.

iTrader: (26)

check the flywheel

TfnG

iTrader: (27)

does anyone no where i can find a guide or instructions to doing this clutch change or checking the clutch and flywheel? im new to this nitro stuff, so im very unfamiliar with it.

Lars Johnson

iTrader: (5)

Do yourself a favor, Click here and download the Kit/Race Roller manual, maybe even print it out if you can. It is big (16.5 MB) but it is well worth it to have it near you when you're at the track. The Clutch Assembly graphic is on page 30. Typically, the best all-around clutch setup is: 2 Lightened Aluminum Shoes (the blue ones, LOSA9108) with Silver Springs (LOSA9115); and 2 Composite Shoes (LOSA9107) with Gold Springs (LOSA9114) - this is the kit setup. Adam's setup from the NeoBuggy race has 2 Alums with Gold springs, and 2 composites with Green springs (LOSA9113), which a few guys were running at the buggy nats last week. I know guys on here have tried 4 composites with all gold springs with success, and i've run all-aluminums with 4 Silver springs from time to time too, either Losi Long Wears - LOSA9109, or Dynamite Max Lifes - DYNP5188. It really comes down to the type of track you're running on, but the kit setup - 2 Aluminum w/Silvers, 2 Composite w/Golds - would be a good starting point.

As far as maintenance, check the inner clutch bearing from time to time, and use electric motor spray or something to keep it clear of Aluminum and Composite dust. Eventually, both bearings will need to be replaced due to the heat and dust that goes thru them, but you can go a while on the bearings if you check them every few runs.

Mike Elam

iTrader: (6)

Whats up Lars? he shooth me an email sometime this week. [email protected]

Mike

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

I put it together right cause I can read directions, and it was SILKY smoothe.... But thanks for your input. I was just wandering if anyone has heard anything about it? Curious... Cause 3 different people had diffs either blow up or lock up in the same race and same manufacturer... Thats all... Must just be a coincidence...

Integra

iTrader: (8)

i got about 8-10 losi's local to me....only 1 had a rear diff lock up...and it was a 8x14x4 flanged....all he had to do was replace it and it was like brand new....and if it happened to 3 people on the same day...thats messed...i kinda find it hard to beleive....where are the pics of this supposed diff ?

Matt M.

iTrader: (26)

thanks lars...

i can get a gallon or so out of my clutch, i rebuild it after every race day, clean the shoes and inner clutch bell with emery paper, i spray the bearings and put a drop of oil in....

i use 2 blue losi shoes and 2 composite with gold and green springs.....it works great....

Semple

iTrader: (3)

I had the same problem at one point, with the engine revving but the car not going anywhere. If I can remember correctly, my flywheel was spinning on the collet because the clutch nut came loose. Threadlock it, but I wouldn't recommend using red because you may never get the clutch off the flywheel again. I've had that happen.