Losi 8ight building and setup
06-11-2008, 05:55 PM
#7067
Just bragging, but I got to. LOL.
I was able to run a full run at the Nats qualifiers without a stop for fuel. I had at least a 1 1/2 to 2 lap cushion. All the hard work I put into my drivetrain paid off.
I also posted a 33 mph speed at the trap.
Pissed my friend off.
I was able to run a full run at the Nats qualifiers without a stop for fuel. I had at least a 1 1/2 to 2 lap cushion. All the hard work I put into my drivetrain paid off. I also posted a 33 mph speed at the trap. Pissed my friend off.
06-11-2008, 06:42 PM
#7068
Just bragging, but I got to. LOL. I was able to run a full run at the Nats qualifiers without a stop for fuel. I had at least a 1 1/2 to 2 lap cushion. All the hard work I put into my drivetrain paid off. I also posted a 33 mph speed at the trap. Pissed my friend off.
I was able to run a full run at the Nats qualifiers without a stop for fuel. I had at least a 1 1/2 to 2 lap cushion. All the hard work I put into my drivetrain paid off. I also posted a 33 mph speed at the trap. Pissed my friend off.
06-11-2008, 07:00 PM
#7069
No mods really, just shaved the plastic in the diff bulkheads to make sure the diff assembly spins freely and does no bind/pinch the bearings. Plus I added Acer ceramic bearings. Also the newer the CV shafts are, the better.
06-11-2008, 08:08 PM
#7071
Here is what I have done so far.
I'm curiouse to see how this mill performs.
REar skid plate.
Front and rear braces. In the last picture you can see the CVD "condom".
Installed some OFNA break springs on all 4 screws. No more dragging.
Here it is abput 75% done. I'll be installing the electronics tomorrow consisting of JR 590 servos for both steering and throttle/break, 1500mah Trinity battery, and DSM-2 reciever using my DX3R.
The more I work on this buggy the more i like it. I cant waite to rip the track!
I'm curiouse to see how this mill performs.
REar skid plate.
Front and rear braces. In the last picture you can see the CVD "condom".
Installed some OFNA break springs on all 4 screws. No more dragging.
Here it is abput 75% done. I'll be installing the electronics tomorrow consisting of JR 590 servos for both steering and throttle/break, 1500mah Trinity battery, and DSM-2 reciever using my DX3R.
The more I work on this buggy the more i like it. I cant waite to rip the track!
06-11-2008, 08:52 PM
#7073
A couple of things I noticed if you're going to race that new ride:
Those plastic hindge pin brace covers will eventually break, I'd upgrade to alum braces with no cover. The front inner will probably be the first to go then the rear outer. Make sure you install a throttle return spring. Captured stearing ends mod to keep the stearing together. I even captured my upper links on the shock tower as I've popped those a couple of times.
I like those brake springs you have there, do you know the part number?
Those plastic hindge pin brace covers will eventually break, I'd upgrade to alum braces with no cover. The front inner will probably be the first to go then the rear outer. Make sure you install a throttle return spring. Captured stearing ends mod to keep the stearing together. I even captured my upper links on the shock tower as I've popped those a couple of times.
I like those brake springs you have there, do you know the part number?
06-11-2008, 08:58 PM
#7074
A couple of things I noticed if you're going to race that new ride:
Those plastic hindge pin brace covers will eventually break, I'd upgrade to alum braces with no cover. The front inner will probably be the first to go then the rear outer. Make sure you install a throttle return spring. Captured stearing ends mod to keep the stearing together. I even captured my upper links on the shock tower as I've popped those a couple of times.
I like those brake springs you have there, do you know the part number?
Those plastic hindge pin brace covers will eventually break, I'd upgrade to alum braces with no cover. The front inner will probably be the first to go then the rear outer. Make sure you install a throttle return spring. Captured stearing ends mod to keep the stearing together. I even captured my upper links on the shock tower as I've popped those a couple of times.
I like those brake springs you have there, do you know the part number?
06-11-2008, 09:04 PM
#7075
also Amain has the springs for the brakes... or just use ball point pin springs......
here
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/18893
06-11-2008, 09:04 PM
#7076
Check this thread out:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...tured&page=211
I used washers from Ace on mine.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...tured&page=211
I used washers from Ace on mine.
06-12-2008, 01:34 AM
#7078
Check this thread out:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...tured&page=211
I used washers from Ace on mine.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...tured&page=211
I used washers from Ace on mine.
I found that over time, as the plastics stretch and get loose, the washer on top of the 6.8mm ball joint will back out. As you turn the wheels back and forth while at full droop, the steering rod ends will put pressure on the underside of the washer and cause it to loosen the screw. Amain sells the Kyosho outer ball joints that are very similar to the CRC joints. I recently put the CRC joints on my buggy and truggy. It's an improvement too me.
06-12-2008, 06:47 AM
#7080
I had issues with the srings on the caliper's...when they would get dirty it would cause them to stick even more if the springs weren't there....i even went as far as to polish the rods they ride on..and it still bound up every once and a while.....i have since Ditched the springs....and if u take the time to set-up the linkage properly u should'nt have any brake drag anyways.