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Old 06-04-2008, 05:39 PM   #6991
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I have had two clutch screws lock into the shaft and then strip the allen hole. The first time I cut a slot in it and used a flat head to get a little more force and out it came. This time I purchased a screw extractor. Well, I drilled it, tapped the extractor like the instructions say and guess what the god damn head came off. So no biggie I think, I start drilling the screw out and will tap new threads. Well after I get in there I can see enough meat left so I put the extractor in and that damn thing busts off in there. Well, I can not drill out the hardened steel without severe damage to the crank.

What the heck am I doing wrong to get the clutch screws stuck I know you have to tighten the living crap out of it and use a LITTLE BIT of lock tight. Is it the screws are cheap metal? they are factory Losi clutch kit screws.

Help me understand how you get the clutch screw tight enough to not work loose butremove it if you need to do clutch maintenance....


Help! I can not purchase a new engine and continue to have this problem.
I use no locktite and just snug the screws up. Never had one gome out. If you are going to use locktite on them make shure to heat them up before trying to remove them.
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Old 06-04-2008, 05:45 PM   #6992
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i too have never used locktite on the clutch screw....
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Old 06-04-2008, 06:29 PM   #6993
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I used just a small drop of blue locktite and just snug the screws in, no need to crank them down when using the locktite.
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Old 06-04-2008, 06:48 PM   #6994
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Hmmmmm, ok I thought I read the clutch screw was notorious for backing out. So, no lock tight and just snug it down good? I suspect the heat is baking the nut in when I use just a drop of loctite and then wrench it down...

Second question, its the stock 427. Is it worth putting in a new crank with about 4 gallons on the sleeve and piston? I'm running novice class and most of the guys at the track have told me not to be worried about getting more power yet, just run that engine to the ground and learn to drive it good first. a new crank is 54 bucks the whole engine is only worth 153 new. I would suspect I'd need to come up with 300 for a quality pipe and engine.
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Old 06-04-2008, 10:19 PM   #6995
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If you can't save the crank I'd just replace it. Those engines are good for a long time if treated correctly. This may be a fluke, but I just replaced the P/S/R in my Mach 427 after 15+ gallons. On its last couple of race days I noticed that I had to start really leaning the top end so that it would perform. So since it was no longer holding the tune I replaced the internals. So, now I get to see how long a rebuilt one will last. I'm not expecting that same mark again though.
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Old 06-05-2008, 05:26 AM   #6996
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i have had the screews lock that the hex rounds off .all i do is cut a slot in it with a dremel and use a small hobby gas torch to warm the shaft .aways works for me .
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Old 06-05-2008, 07:24 AM   #6997
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bloodrush, yeah that's what I've done on the other screws that have been locked in, except not with a blow torch. With the clutch I tried the screw extractor because I can find a new screw at Ace hardware, but can not find that collar that goes around it without driving 80 miles. I wanted to hit the track this week and all I wanted to do was check the wear on my shoes.

I have had more screw heads and holes strip on this thing then anything else I have ever owened. If I only snug metal to metal screws without locetite they seem to back out. Pipe mount is perfect example, there again I use a small touch of locetite, wipe off excess; and the pipe heat must bake the blue loctite into RED Loctite Yes, I have tried heating it, with a 100w iron, before trying to unscrew it. Did that with the clutch screw with no luck. If I don't loctite the pipe mount screw that screw always backs out on me. I've had to dremel that one out at least twice. I think these Losi screw just suck, and maybe my drivers are getting a little worn and the combination is causing them to round out. I might try stainless and a new driver.
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Old 06-05-2008, 07:26 AM   #6998
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Ok folks have a question. I ran my race roller 8ight last night for the first time and everything went well until the very last tank of fuel. Long story short my throttle servo died. I just want to know if anybody else uses the 2 o-rings to support the rear of their radio tray. I installed them per the kits instructions, I also spaced my sevos up for additional clearance to. I am stoked because this was a brand new futaba 9351 servo, and I have never had one go out since I switched to futaba. It could be a fluke servo so I will put a new one in tonight and try again. I want to make this buggy work for me so any tips would be appreciated.
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Old 06-05-2008, 07:55 AM   #6999
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Originally Posted by jpz_67 View Post
Ok folks have a question. I ran my race roller 8ight last night for the first time and everything went well until the very last tank of fuel. Long story short my throttle servo died. I just want to know if anybody else uses the 2 o-rings to support the rear of their radio tray. I installed them per the kits instructions, I also spaced my sevos up for additional clearance to. I am stoked because this was a brand new futaba 9351 servo, and I have never had one go out since I switched to futaba. It could be a fluke servo so I will put a new one in tonight and try again. I want to make this buggy work for me so any tips would be appreciated.
You need to be VERY careful setting up your throttle/brake linkages with the 8ight

Make sure that @ full movement the servo's not pulling radio plate around !!

Also on throttle @ wide open you should still have some more movement left in the linkage ??

At full brake check that the radio plates not being pulled around and that you actually need all the throw you've got dialed in as a correctly set-up 8ight needs VERY little movement for alot of braking..........

After that check that the servo has some room around it in the radio plate as I found with my ACE's I needed to remove some material to ensure a small gap alround the servo......

with the above done my servo's are lasting

Rod
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Old 06-05-2008, 08:22 AM   #7000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpz_67 View Post
Ok folks have a question. I ran my race roller 8ight last night for the first time and everything went well until the very last tank of fuel. Long story short my throttle servo died. I just want to know if anybody else uses the 2 o-rings to support the rear of their radio tray. I installed them per the kits instructions, I also spaced my sevos up for additional clearance to. I am stoked because this was a brand new futaba 9351 servo, and I have never had one go out since I switched to futaba. It could be a fluke servo so I will put a new one in tonight and try again. I want to make this buggy work for me so any tips would be appreciated.
Somewhere back (pages, I believe was around pages 50-59), there was quite a discussion about throtle servo and linkage setup, someone posted very good pictures in how to do it right, I think I have a printed copy at home, I will look it up to give you the exact entry. Meanwhile you could search the thread and be lucky.
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Old 06-05-2008, 08:29 AM   #7001
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I run a futaba 3pk radio and my brakes are set at only 36% brake epa. I think that I might be able to reduce that percentage. As far as the throttle side I do have the end points turned back so that at full throttle you can still reach down with your hand and pull another couple millimeters worth of travel. I must admit that at full brake my servo tray does move slightly, but nothing excessive. Is a small amount acceptable or with the linkage set properly should there be no movement at all?
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Old 06-05-2008, 08:56 AM   #7002
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Originally Posted by jpz_67 View Post
I run a futaba 3pk radio and my brakes are set at only 36% brake epa. I think that I might be able to reduce that percentage. As far as the throttle side I do have the end points turned back so that at full throttle you can still reach down with your hand and pull another couple millimeters worth of travel. I must admit that at full brake my servo tray does move slightly, but nothing excessive. Is a small amount acceptable or with the linkage set properly should there be no movement at all?
It's sounding like you got the linkages set-up just about perfect

A small amount of movement in the tray is inevetable as it's SO flexible, I use the KH brace

You have deffinately got the servo far enough of the chassis ?? thats the only other thing I can think of ?? Maybe you've just been unlucky with a bad servo ???

Rod
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Old 06-05-2008, 09:03 AM   #7003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertbird View Post
bloodrush, yeah that's what I've done on the other screws that have been locked in, except not with a blow torch. With the clutch I tried the screw extractor because I can find a new screw at Ace hardware, but can not find that collar that goes around it without driving 80 miles. I wanted to hit the track this week and all I wanted to do was check the wear on my shoes.

I have had more screw heads and holes strip on this thing then anything else I have ever owened. If I only snug metal to metal screws without locetite they seem to back out. Pipe mount is perfect example, there again I use a small touch of locetite, wipe off excess; and the pipe heat must bake the blue loctite into RED Loctite Yes, I have tried heating it, with a 100w iron, before trying to unscrew it. Did that with the clutch screw with no luck. If I don't loctite the pipe mount screw that screw always backs out on me. I've had to dremel that one out at least twice. I think these Losi screw just suck, and maybe my drivers are getting a little worn and the combination is causing them to round out. I might try stainless and a new driver.
i hate stainless screws.. they seem to be to soft and break/strip very easily..imo
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Old 06-05-2008, 09:15 AM   #7004
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i hate stainless screws.. they seem to be to soft and break/strip very easily..imo
Where can I get titamium screws? I'd rather round off the driver then the stupid screws at this point.
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Old 06-05-2008, 10:55 AM   #7005
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Ti isnt the answer...the heads snap off instead...Tony's 12.9G Screw's are where its at.
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