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Old 06-02-2008, 05:02 PM   #6976
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Default screws

has anyone ever changed the screws and nuts for metric ones?if so what for what cheers
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Old 06-02-2008, 11:08 PM   #6977
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Originally Posted by Semple View Post
Will I be able to find one at Home Depot, etc?
I found a setscrew at Lowes that worked for me. It wasn't an M4 but it was close enough to work and I needed something that day. I took the pipe and hex drivers to the store with me to make sure I found one that would work.
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Old 06-03-2008, 12:13 AM   #6978
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hey i am going to replace the pins in my front drive shaft, what is the mugen or x-ray part number....

thanks

MAtt

Either
MUGC0271 Mugen 3x13mm Joint Pin
or
MUGC0270 Mugen 3x12mm Joint Pin
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Old 06-03-2008, 02:12 AM   #6979
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the wheels spin at idle yes but not all the time somtimes they do and others they sit still werid. what kind of play do u all use for the clutch bell and spur gear read u want it lose so that how i am running it should i do the paper thickness as the manual says. i did put the shoes on the right direction too. what info are u looking for be gald to give it too u. need to know if this thing is supose to have side to side play and what other bells u can use with losi clutch. one more thing i am running ninja .21 bo1a motor and it rubs on gas tank any fix using fatory engine mounts i pulled the tank forward with a zip tie but would like a good fix not a rigged fix. o and does any one know what pipe works best with this motor
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Old 06-03-2008, 07:48 AM   #6980
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My front two diff case mounting screws are stripping... Don't get excited, shes fairly ugly, has no tits, and only does it when I'm getting ready to screw her....

Is there a trick to restore the threads and get a little more life out of the diff case; I hate to just dump the biach? Then once I do get a new case is there something to reduce the likelyhood of the new biach from stripping on me?
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Old 06-03-2008, 08:37 AM   #6981
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Moving the arms forward does more than just help the front of the car from digging into the ground. You are changing wheelbase, weight distribution, steering ackerman, driveshaft angles, and probably a few more things. The total change of doing that may result in positive or negative results on the track. For some it may work better than for others. My point is when you make modifications like that try to understand what it's doing so if it's not behaving on the track like you expected you know why.

I'm all for making modifications. Some people say nothing on my car is stock. They may truly never know.

desertbird: You can try some CA but that is a high stress area and I wouldn't expect it to hold. You could also try drilling it out and using a larger screw. The best thing would be to get new diff cases. Just don't overtighten the screws, they only need to be snug.
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Old 06-03-2008, 10:17 AM   #6982
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the wheels spin at idle yes but not all the time somtimes they do and others they sit still werid. what kind of play do u all use for the clutch bell and spur gear read u want it lose so that how i am running it should i do the paper thickness as the manual says. i did put the shoes on the right direction too. what info are u looking for be gald to give it too u.
I would say there is no clutch problem as regards to the wheels turning. If they are spinning pretty fast, then the idle is too high.

>5mm to 1.0mm endplay is fine. You may want to do the paper thing for the gear mesh till you get the hang of how much backlash you need for the gears.

If you put a spacer between the flywheel collet and the front engine bearing, that may be your problem with the clutch too close to the fuel tank. ERemove that and re-assemble and correct the shimming. Should be good to go if that was the case.

Off to the NAT's.
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Old 06-03-2008, 10:19 AM   #6983
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good luck to all thoes going to nats.
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Old 06-03-2008, 10:19 AM   #6984
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Clutch bell to bearing slop can be reduced by swiping some CA on the bell for where the outer bearing races contact.
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Old 06-03-2008, 08:06 PM   #6985
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Default thanks the help

tried what u gues said going to track tom and tell u all if it work just rebuil the buggy it will be its first run was having on the problem on my 8t. what stater box does everone use on there buggy have ofna crome top with blue bottom to heavy looking for smaller box with lots of touque cuz I only run high end motors with lots of pinch grp .21 heard losi box motors burn up any suggestions
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Old 06-03-2008, 08:22 PM   #6986
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Originally Posted by desertbird View Post
My front two diff case mounting screws are stripping... Don't get excited, shes fairly ugly, has no tits, and only does it when I'm getting ready to screw her....

Is there a trick to restore the threads and get a little more life out of the diff case; I hate to just dump the biach? Then once I do get a new case is there something to reduce the likelyhood of the new biach from stripping on me?

I have used 3mm screws same length in my diff cases for a long time.. you do not even need to tap / re-thread......
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Old 06-04-2008, 12:32 PM   #6987
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This interesting I just checked out extreme rc cars magazine website and they caught losi testing a electric powered 8. http://www.rc411.com/
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Old 06-04-2008, 01:17 PM   #6988
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This interesting I just checked out extreme rc cars magazine website and they caught losi testing a electric powered 8. http://www.rc411.com/
That is interesting. But I'd be more interested to know if they were actually testing one, or wether one of their guys converted one and let others drive it. Obviously I don't have a clue, but I know those 1/8 E8's haul ass.
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Old 06-04-2008, 02:34 PM   #6989
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All of my stuff is packed and being shipped to the Nats. I need to take some new pics because my others are to big to post on here. I did pack my camera as well.
Actually if you look at the new 808 front arms on their website, the front of their arms are cut back 4mm and they use shims to hold the arm where they want it. This is basically what I did to mine. It almost looks identical. I put the 3mm Xray shim in the back of the arm and it gives you instant front end clearance.
I'll take some more pics.
Take care,
TEX
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and good luck for the Nats kick some a$$

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Old 06-04-2008, 05:36 PM   #6990
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I have had two clutch screws lock into the shaft and then strip the allen hole. The first time I cut a slot in it and used a flat head to get a little more force and out it came. This time I purchased a screw extractor. Well, I drilled it, tapped the extractor like the instructions say and guess what the god damn head came off. So no biggie I think, I start drilling the screw out and will tap new threads. Well after I get in there I can see enough meat left so I put the extractor in and that damn thing busts off in there. Well, I can not drill out the hardened steel without severe damage to the crank.

What the heck am I doing wrong to get the clutch screws stuck I know you have to tighten the living crap out of it and use a LITTLE BIT of lock tight. Is it the screws are cheap metal? they are factory Losi clutch kit screws.

Help me understand how you get the clutch screw tight enough to not work loose butremove it if you need to do clutch maintenance....


Help! I can not purchase a new engine and continue to have this problem.
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