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Old 05-20-2008, 07:59 AM   #6826
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ok...thanks....so you are basically saying we should run truggy gears in the diffs and put a smaller spur and larger pinion to get the same finals gear????


just trying to be clear....

thanks

Matt
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Old 05-20-2008, 08:23 AM   #6827
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Originally Posted by mr. losi View Post
ok...thanks....so you are basically saying we should run truggy gears in the diffs and put a smaller spur and larger pinion to get the same finals gear????


just trying to be clear....

thanks

Matt
Sort of... it is actually a slightly higher ratio overall than stock that he is describing... just slightly. Going down to a 17 tooth bell would be closer to stock. A big advantage here that isn't mentioned is the extra "meat" in the teeth area of the clutch bell... less breakage! I shread 14 tooth Losi bells like they're made of paper. I went to a 15/48 with a non-Losi bell this past weekend and it's holding up ok now, and the car STILL has more punch than I know what to do with... I think the higher overall ratio he has described how to get would calm the car down. (I'm running stock ring and pinions in the front and rear.)
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Old 05-20-2008, 08:26 AM   #6828
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It has very sharp edges that work and score the plastic and even the alum nut on the servo saver. Take a rough stone grind tip for your dremel and round and soften the edges of the spring. I rounded the ends of mine to almost a ball and they will wear much better on the plastic and alum surfaces. I followed this up with Traxxas lithium grease on both ends of the spring and it will stay good and consistant for at least a month of racing before you need to clean and reassemble.
The servo saver is the weakest link on the 8ight. They need to fix it to be like the Kyosho or new Xray 808 servo saver. I have emailed them about this to no avail. It is simply not designed correctly for the vertical movement required to make it work right. This is where most of the slop comes from in the Ackermann arm. When the saver flexes it twist the joints and the arm.
Next stop is the gearing and front end.
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if they need to change the gearing and the front end soo bad then why are companies useing the same gearing and front ende setups on their new cars.
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Old 05-20-2008, 10:36 AM   #6829
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Well, whatever you're trying to inquire about must be new or something. Amainhobbies doesn't have those part numbers.


Oh ok. Found them elsewhere. Why would you think they are longer?
There are instances where the dogbones may come out. I know that we can shim and fix them but I was wondering if they new ones (losa3553 and Losa3554) where longer and you did need to shim.
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Old 05-20-2008, 10:56 AM   #6830
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What brand of diff oil do you use? And does Losi sell their diff oil in a larger bottle than the single use tubes?
i use all mugen and have never had a problem. they held up all last year but i noticed about a week ago i REALLY need to redo them. but thats just cuz im so busy and havent had a chance to change it yet.
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Old 05-20-2008, 11:37 AM   #6831
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There are instances where the dogbones may come out. I know that we can shim and fix them but I was wondering if they new ones (losa3553 and Losa3554) where longer and you did need to shim.
Cota--did you see Matt Howard's post? #6784

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i use all mugen and have never had a problem. they held up all last year but i noticed about a week ago i REALLY need to redo them. but thats just cuz im so busy and havent had a chance to change it yet.

Iv'e been using the Mugen also. A long time ago in this thread, some suggested the Mugen oils were around 1,000 heavier than the Losi oil. Well, I'd like to test between the two. That and I can't seem to find the viscosity I'd like in Mugen oil. I drive the 8-T also so I'd like to have 9k or 8k Mugen oil. I can't find it though.

I've thought about getting a whole set of the Ofna oil cause they have about any weight you could think of. I realize everything would be different, but that's what practicing is for. LOL.
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Old 05-20-2008, 05:46 PM   #6832
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Default Question about building the Losi clutch

IS there a trick to building this clutch? I am having no luck. I have ruined one composite shoe, and stripped 2 screws. I am going to buy a new flywheel and assorted parts and start over. Anyone offer any help?
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Old 05-20-2008, 06:30 PM   #6833
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Tex , what clutch and brand of pinion are you running with that setup?
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Old 05-20-2008, 07:32 PM   #6834
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IS there a trick to building this clutch? I am having no luck. I have ruined one composite shoe, and stripped 2 screws. I am going to buy a new flywheel and assorted parts and start over. Anyone offer any help?
Try grinding/sanding a slight bevel on the end of the clutch pins. This will help it get through the rear of the flywheel. But don't put too much angle on and don't take off too much material. Try a slight bevel, work on putting it in, if it doesn't go then put a little more bevel on. Just keep doing this till you find the sweet spot.

Also be sure you're pushing the clutch shoe down against the flywheel so the holes for the pin line up all the way through. The clutch springs will keep the clutch shoe slightly off the flywheel so there is some tension already on the clutch shoes.
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Old 05-20-2008, 07:49 PM   #6835
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Can some tell me what weight the shock oil is that comes in the buggy kit (orange bottle) I can't see that they put any markings on the bottle. Thanks
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Old 05-20-2008, 08:19 PM   #6836
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Can some tell me what weight the shock oil is that comes in the buggy kit (orange bottle) I can't see that they put any markings on the bottle. Thanks
35 weight. Thats why it is orange
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Old 05-20-2008, 08:21 PM   #6837
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35 weight. Thats why it is orange
Thank you
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Old 05-20-2008, 08:25 PM   #6838
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Thank you
no problem
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Old 05-21-2008, 01:48 PM   #6839
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are the Losi 8ight CVD drive pins replaceable with a tool??

ive heard of people doing them to mugen pins:
http://radiocontrolcoslada.blogspot....-cvd-pins.html
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Old 05-21-2008, 01:54 PM   #6840
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are the Losi 8ight CVD drive pins replaceable with a tool??

ive heard of people doing them to mugen pins:
http://radiocontrolcoslada.blogspot....-cvd-pins.html


any pin can be pressed out...but the quesion lies in will it Hold in there once u press in a new pin....i tried cold pressing a pin out myself to only have the new 1 back out during the middle of a Race...could have been nasty is it worked its way out into the brakes...and yes i used the red permanent loctite and it still backed out. ...i just buy new 1's for the peace of mind.
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