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Old 05-19-2008, 04:31 PM   #6811
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are u using loctite ? it should'nt move if u are.
I am using loctite.... the nut is not moving.... just that it gets harder for the servo saver to "break" or give..... like the 2 parts get stuck together.
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Old 05-19-2008, 04:38 PM   #6812
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I am using loctite.... the nut is not moving.... just that it gets harder for the servo saver to "break" or give..... like the 2 parts get stuck together.


when i build my saver's i put a small dab of grease on both sides and work the saver back n forth to make sure i got good coverage then wipe off the excess...this should allow the saver to work without binding...but those 2 parts do wear pretty good with a tight saver...so just have spares handy for when it gets bad enuff to replace.
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Old 05-19-2008, 04:55 PM   #6813
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that is kinda what I thought..... I have used pure graphite powder and that helps some....but it is always better with new parts....
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Old 05-19-2008, 06:03 PM   #6814
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ok guys i am having trouble here and can't seem to get it figured out. I am fairly new to my 8ight and the last time i did any racing was back when 1/10 scale electric ruled the world. That being said the rear end of my 8ight won't stay planted in the corner. My turn in is awesome but trying to come out of the corner the rear end kicks out and almost (or does) spins me out. I am running the links in the 2-A position, and i have the adjustable rear hinge pin brace so i can change to what ever. I am running 7-5-2 diff oil and 3 degrees negative camber. i really wanna plant the rear end better from the middle out of the corner any ideas?
You can shorten up your front shocks(less droop). This will not allow the rear of the car to dump over as much causing rear steer. The standard droop settings are 95mm shock length. You can shorten then up a .5mm at a time. Very easy adjustment.
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Old 05-19-2008, 06:29 PM   #6815
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Red face Check the spring....

It has very sharp edges that work and score the plastic and even the alum nut on the servo saver. Take a rough stone grind tip for your dremel and round and soften the edges of the spring. I rounded the ends of mine to almost a ball and they will wear much better on the plastic and alum surfaces. I followed this up with Traxxas lithium grease on both ends of the spring and it will stay good and consistant for at least a month of racing before you need to clean and reassemble.
The servo saver is the weakest link on the 8ight. They need to fix it to be like the Kyosho or new Xray 808 servo saver. I have emailed them about this to no avail. It is simply not designed correctly for the vertical movement required to make it work right. This is where most of the slop comes from in the Ackermann arm. When the saver flexes it twist the joints and the arm.
Next stop is the gearing and front end.
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Old 05-19-2008, 06:51 PM   #6816
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i never thought of the spring causing the problem... but now that I think about it.... it could.... i am going to have to look into that...... hhhmmm..... thanks for the tip... and yes i have to say i never liked the way the servo saver works.... it needs to be adjustable from the top... like a kyosho.....


thanks
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Old 05-19-2008, 06:57 PM   #6817
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Red face I like the top adjustment as well....

The most significant thing about the Kyosho servo saver is the fact that the steering rack stays and the arm going to the servo moves in the vertcal. On the Losi the rack twist because the right side is allowed to move vertical while the other side stays in place. Not very well executed from a design stand point.
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Old 05-19-2008, 07:31 PM   #6818
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The problem with having it reversed is that dirt gets built up inside the saver and causes it not to function.
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Old 05-19-2008, 09:43 PM   #6819
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dumb quwstion, but what is wrong with the gearing??

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Old 05-19-2008, 11:22 PM   #6820
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Originally Posted by cornerspeed View Post
You can shorten up your front shocks(less droop). This will not allow the rear of the car to dump over as much causing rear steer. The standard droop settings are 95mm shock length. You can shorten then up a .5mm at a time. Very easy adjustment.
+1 to cornerspeed

Very easy. Depending on how much droop you remove, you can make the car push coming out of the corners. Also don't forget about the tuning guide in the back of the manual. Tons of info, and lots of things to try.
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Old 05-19-2008, 11:24 PM   #6821
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dumb quwstion, but what is wrong with the gearing??

matt
huh? Not sure what you mean. Like, the diff gears? or gear ratio?
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Old 05-20-2008, 01:05 AM   #6822
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What brand of diff oil do you use? And does Losi sell their diff oil in a larger bottle than the single use tubes?
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Old 05-20-2008, 01:21 AM   #6823
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use XB8 hexes...
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Old 05-20-2008, 05:38 AM   #6824
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. losi View Post
dumb quwstion, but what is wrong with the gearing??

matt
Other buggies have started to develop a lower ratio for their gear boxes. A 10 - 43 (Losi 8ightT) in a buggy will change the drive characteristics of the car. What happens is the center diff moves at a much higher velocity for any given rolling speed in a corner. With the stock 13 - 43 gearing the center diff moves much slower for a given wheel speed.
The significance is the fact that the motor does not have to work as hard to bring the car up to desired speed after or during cornering. This means you can pull a much taller overall gear ratio. Less work on the engine also means better fuel economy. Ever wonder why a RC8 accelerates like it does? This is why.

My ratio is 11.22:1 overall. 10-43 in the boxes and 18-47 on the input.
All of my 8 minute motors have become 10 minute motors.
I can tune for runtime instead of punch.
If the car is at a dead stop like in an absolute hairpin, it is harder to break the tires loose.
It is like having passing gear when you are in traffic.
The taller overall ratio allows for greater straightaway speeds.
Bottom line is you can do more with less.

IMO - If Losi is not doing this by the Worlds...they will have their hands full with all of the new cars that are doing it.

Prediction- Kyosho, Mugen, Jammin and Hyper will be changing. RC8 and 808 are already there.

From the ground up, you can also do more if you reduce the rotating mass by comming out with a smaller spur gear. Losi would have a difficult time with this due to the forward spur gear design. It would be hard to get the engine that far over.

Now I'm getting all of my vents and nit picks out before the Worlds in hopes of getting a new car. I love my Losi! Just hope they see the light. The new cars are looking very good.

I'll never go back!
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Old 05-20-2008, 07:09 AM   #6825
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is it worth it to get the king headz extended engine mount instead of the non extended?
Yes... for 2 reasons:

1) Helps take the flex away from the hole for the flywheel and spur gear, so it is easier on the clutch bell and bearings.

2) The top mount plates are reversible... so you can use it with other clutch bells like Mugen. (moves the motor forward about 2mm)
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