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Old 05-14-2008, 10:36 PM   #6766
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The peg on my idle stop screw broke on my 427 engine. Anyone know of a replacement?
Did you search somewhere like amainhobbies or horizon hobbies? Usually places have replacement parts.
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Old 05-14-2008, 10:40 PM   #6767
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Someone had mentioned before that adding the 50t spur you the losi did not need any gear mesh adjustment and that the spur did not stick out the bottom of the chassis. However, i got 2 of them in today and the tip of the teeth (about 1mm) stick out the bottom of the chassis and i did have to move the gear mesh. I will be making a spacer to go under the center diff mounts so the center spurr is not sticking out the bottom of the chassis.

I wonder why they'd tell you that? The 48T spur comes awfully close to showing through the bottom. So...IDK.
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Old 05-15-2008, 07:16 AM   #6768
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Default Qoncepts Split Diff

Anyone know where to buy a Qoncepts Split Center Diff Mount for Losi 8ight And what they cost ? Or who else makes a similar item?

Jim
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Old 05-15-2008, 07:29 AM   #6769
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Yeah I searched, they do not have a screw specific to the stock engine, I did see idle stop screws, but they don't specify thread pattern and size so I don't know if it will work. I ordered a new carb, sucks to have to buy a new carb if there is a screw from another manufacturer that will work. If anyone has a 427 lying around as a paper weight I'll buy the screw off you and pay for shipping. Heck if anyone has a 427 lying around I buy the whole damn engine off you if your price is right. I'd like to tinker with moding the crank a tad. I then send the new carb back....
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Old 05-15-2008, 07:34 AM   #6770
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Anyone know where to buy a Qoncepts Split Center Diff Mount for Losi 8ight And what they cost ? Or who else makes a similar item?

Jim
http://www.qoncepts.com/

I've used them the past two years and they're great. A little pricey but it makes getting the center diff out and back in a bajillion times easier
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Old 05-15-2008, 08:35 AM   #6771
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Originally Posted by air8 View Post
I wonder why they'd tell you that? The 48T spur comes awfully close to showing through the bottom. So...IDK.
someone had said that losi had tweeaked the pitch of the gear a tad bit to get it the 50t the same size as the 48t. however, they were wrong.
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Old 05-15-2008, 08:45 AM   #6772
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Originally Posted by micrors4guy View Post
someone had said that losi had tweeaked the pitch of the gear a tad bit to get it the 50t the same size as the 48t. however, they were wrong.
If they change the pitch of the spur they would also have to change the bell to mesh properly...
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Old 05-15-2008, 08:59 AM   #6773
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If they change the pitch of the spur they would also have to change the bell to mesh properly...
Technically true, but the assumption that the mesh must be 'proper' may not apply completely.

For example, I can change to any of the available gearing on my 1/8th on-road car and never have to move the engine to adjust mesh. All the 1st gear pinions are the same diameter (15T through 17T), and all the spur gears are the same diameter (47T through 50T). The pitch just changes slightly to make it work.

Same deal with 2nd gear pinions and spurs. In the end, I can choose any pinions and any spurs and never need to move the engine.

I didn't believe this until I saw it. I'm sure there is a tradeoff in the form of geartrain efficiency and maybe even gear life, but those might be acceptable tradeoffs in 1/8th off-road as they appearantly are in 1/8th on-road???
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Old 05-15-2008, 12:34 PM   #6774
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Hmmm..maybe the guy that was saying that, figured the gear mesh would be loose and the "tweaked" 50t could fit. But like you said, he was wrong. And I couldn't see Losi doing something like that. Unless one of the drivers requested it. IDK. weird

So we know now the 50t sticks through the spur gear hole.
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Old 05-16-2008, 12:12 AM   #6775
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I already solved the ackerman slop problem.

1)Drill the ackerman holes to 1/4" and then press in sleeve bearings:
From McMaster-Carr: SAE 841 Bronze sleeve bearings p/n 6391K113
2)Then drill those out to 5/32"
3)Next insert new shoulder screws: McMaster-Carr: p/n 93985A524

Put a drop of after run oil on and you're done.
Has anyone figured out a way to use a bearing instead of a bushing yet? also which is better the revolution bearing or the rubber bearings on avid rc?
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Old 05-16-2008, 06:12 AM   #6776
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Has anyone figured out a way to use a bearing instead of a bushing yet? also which is better the revolution bearing or the rubber bearings on avid rc?
i just use a Carbon Anchorman and havent seen any slop in Months.
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Old 05-16-2008, 06:55 AM   #6777
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Originally Posted by desertbird View Post
The peg on my idle stop screw broke on my 427 engine. Anyone know of a replacement?
I think this might work. It's off the dynamite Mach 427

http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/D...ProdID=DYN0928
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Old 05-16-2008, 07:19 AM   #6778
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Originally Posted by BRETTMASTERJ View Post
Has anyone figured out a way to use a bearing instead of a bushing yet? also which is better the revolution bearing or the rubber bearings on avid rc?
I personally like the Revolutions bearings, which have a metal shield on one side, rubber on the other. (less drag than rubber on both sides, but still allows you to face the rubber to the "dirty" side to protect the bearings.) Just my $.02
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Old 05-16-2008, 08:09 AM   #6779
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Originally Posted by DOMIT View Post
I personally like the Revolutions bearings, which have a metal shield on one side, rubber on the other. (less drag than rubber on both sides, but still allows you to face the rubber to the "dirty" side to protect the bearings.) Just my $.02
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Old 05-16-2008, 08:38 AM   #6780
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Thanks C&B!
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