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Old 11-08-2006, 05:50 AM   #661
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Did some testing last night during our local races. My motors were getting 240 - 250F every heat. Servo was coming off at 95 degrees. I run a 359 Airtronics for throttle. This shows that the motor is not heating the servo beyond its mechanical tolerances.
If some of you are getting heat then it can only be from a couple of issues.

Straining the servo while it is trying to stay centered. Cutting the throttle spring is not an issue. It is way thick. All you have to do is close the carb. If you use the return spring shown above then there is no strain once the carb is closed. This means you are pulling minimal current to stay centered. My spring on the rod is very light. When I put the kit spring back on my servo it buzzes when at neutral.

Carb is out of line. Make sure they are dead straight.

Your EPA on the brakes can be too high. If you close the throttle spring all the way when you apply your brakes then the carb is holding your servo. Readjust your brake end point linkage and EPA. Max EPA needs to have the coils not completely folding over on your throttle spring. If you don't hve enough brakes then adjust on the brake linkage side.

Voltage too high from your RX. Sounds crazy but some guys are running LiPo packs with no regulators. I have seen several smoke out.

Get that servo case up off the chassis. There are shims in the kit for the big servos.

Make sure the brakes are not binding.

Make sure your carb boot is moving past the center diff mount correctly. If not, you need to adjust your carb. For the RG motor which has a huge carb boot, I had to grind the back of the diff plate to get clearance. Otherwise the carb would have to be turned soo much that it would bind because it was being pulled at an angle.

BTW - I'm seeing a few problems with the switch installations. The wires are rubbing their insulation off going into the front box. The switch is very tight right there so BEWARE. I took my switch out.

Hope some of these help. Good news is these issues are not engineering. They are execution and setup.
TEX
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Old 11-08-2006, 06:28 AM   #662
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Good advice Tex and good advice Aaron. Sounds like it isn't heat then. It's very hard to see everyones rides through words so you can help them out with problems.

Aaron and all the rest of the guys I hope you get it figured out. I don't want to have to swerve around a bunch of dead soldiers with my Mugen cause the throttle won't go.

I'm just playin with you guys, I may still buy the Losi to see what all the hype is about. I just like to read other 1/8 scale posts to see what is going on. Keep up the good work Aaron and good luck to you guys with the servos. See you on the track...
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Old 11-08-2006, 07:02 AM   #663
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Is everyone's arm on the throttle servo parallel with the servo or is at another angle?
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Old 11-08-2006, 07:21 AM   #664
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mine isnt parallel. it is off due to the spring.
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Old 11-08-2006, 11:31 AM   #665
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Mine is parallel that's the way I've run it on all my cars. I also just picked up some Traxxas #3184 throttle springs that look to be a little softer spring than the stock to try.
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Old 11-08-2006, 12:39 PM   #666
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Any heat is bad for electronics period, add vibration on top of it and you've got fried servos. The throttle servo is 1/8" from the rear brake, and pretty close to the motor.
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Old 11-08-2006, 04:47 PM   #667
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I`, glad I found this thread> I was having problems with my rear brakes locking up do to the brake post lever getting stuck in the bushing.Just loosened it up about 1/4 of a turn from tight and it works fine.

I also run my servo horn a little off center and kept the spring the same lenght.

I am running a cheap RG and have no problems with the carb not opening smoothly or binding up

Thank`s Guys you`ve help me out alot.Now I can stop worring about fixing it and worry about not wrecking it.LOL
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Old 11-08-2006, 11:31 PM   #668
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I don't think my horn is parallel. It's close but...I don't think it's parallel at neutral. I didn't pull out my transmitter to check it today (I was in and out of the house and my stuff is packed away in the back of the house, haha) but I'll check some stuff when I run this weekend.

Scuba Steve - That's what we like to hear!

Brian - I hear ya. Jeremy and Bill, the customer service guys at Losi, are incredible. I'm glad you like the car and all seems to be going well, let me know if I can ever help you with anything.

Chad - These cars have proven fast enough...we might still be in contention, even after a pit stop to change a throttle servo! hahahaha
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Old 11-09-2006, 05:44 AM   #669
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Aaron,
Have you guys had any problems with the shocks leaking? Every car at the track seems to have this problem. What is your take?
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Old 11-09-2006, 08:58 AM   #670
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The arm on my throttle servo is almost perfectly paralell, and my shocks haven't leaked at all. I took my time and built it nice and easy.(I let the lock-tite cure for 24 hours before I filled them with oil) Maybe they rushed their shocks together like alot of the guys that were having them come apart. I'd suggest they go back through and make sure the O-ring seals are seated in there correctly as well.
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Old 11-09-2006, 10:12 AM   #671
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Mine leak also. There are others with the same problem. Some have it, some don't and some just don't see it because the boot is covering the shaft, hehe. They were properly built and put together carefully with the use of Associated Green Slime. I put new o-rings in the rear shocks and have yet to race to see if they still leak. The o-rings that I removed did not look bad or torn in any way. TKO is testing o-rings for the Losi and should have them available soon. Mine were leaking just enough to make the bottoms wet and didn't seem to affect dampening. I've just been cleaning and re-bleeding the leaky shocks for each weekend.
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Old 11-09-2006, 10:25 AM   #672
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Aaron- Thanks. Bill and Jeremy are great guys. Have you tried any changes on your car? Have you tried any of the red, black springs? The 2 - 2 toe and anti squat plate? Ive got my car pretty good, but just looking to see what ride heights and droop and shock lengths your running. Thanks
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Old 11-09-2006, 11:46 AM   #673
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tex - I've heard of that a few times and I think that most of it is probably builder mistakes. Tearing o-rings, not getting everything seated properly, etc. If the leaks were at the top of the shock, that might be manufacturing problems but it doesn't sound like so many people are having problems with the bottom of the shock leaking that I would guess it's a fitment problem. I'll still look into it, but that's my own guess for now.

Anyone having problems should try new o-rings, and build the shocks with Associated green slime (like Ridgeway said), and build the shocks dead, with no rebound. I know from experience on my own car that this works well. My shocks were rebuilt for the first time this past weekend, on Saturday, and the oil looked super clean, the shocks were still full, and there were no signs of leakage.

Brian - I've been running Adam's setup and haven't changed anything from that. I've never been one to really change much on a setup (unless it's severely off the pace) and instead get comfortable with the balance of the car (been running basically the same gas truck setup for what, six years? haha). Ride height on most of these cars seems to change quite often, so I may change that a little bit from race to race, but haven't adjusted anything else.
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Old 11-09-2006, 12:15 PM   #674
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Just asking, and im sure this has beed asked in this thread somewhere, but with the king headz alum shoes, do you run all 4 alum, or just 2 alum, and 2 carbs? And if so, what springs should be used? I have only run my Losi in a 1 5min Quil. and a 10min, and they still look good. Im trying to get it together early for next race season.

Thanks Guys!
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Old 11-09-2006, 12:39 PM   #675
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That's just personal preference. I haven't run the King Headz shoes but I'd still run them with two carbons. Unless someone who has run those shoes has any input, I'd assume run the stock springs at first and see how you like it.
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