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Old 04-23-2008, 05:39 AM   #6646
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Any tips for removing the clutch spring pins/bolts once they have been rounded. I tried to slot them, but that didnt work out to well.
Try to dremel a slot in the head of the screws. I had a RTR once upon a time with the two aluminum shoe setup and after a gallon of use almost everything was siezed together. I had to cut the clutch spring screws in half and use pliers to twist/remove them out the front and then push the other half out the back of the flywheel. Also some have been able to grab the head of the screw with a set of pliers and twist/remove. Good Luck.

When going back with the clutch pins use a small amount of loctite and don't overtighten the screws. Snug the screw and maybe go 1/8 turn more.
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Old 04-23-2008, 06:06 AM   #6647
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How many people here run the aluminum braces? Im trying to decide to get some for my 8ight
im running the plastics. I don't think you need aluminum unless your on a very smooth track.
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Old 04-23-2008, 08:16 AM   #6648
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"Right now is the worst time to switch! Kyosho & Jammin among many others, are about to come out with new cars due to the Worlds event. Who ever your friends are that told you the Associated is more forgiving should seriously have their head examined. Athletic and precise?..... Yes. Forgiving?..... Hell No."

I wholeheartedly agree, Tex. Despite that, I still want to try other teams' goodies, and so here's a shameless plug for my 8ight roller :

Losi 8ight for sale (warning dial-up users)
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Old 04-23-2008, 09:18 AM   #6649
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Kool New Stuff!!

LOSA3553 - Front/Rear HD Lightened Outdrives

LOSA3554 - Center HD Lightened Diff Outdrives

LOSA7730 - Buggy Molded Inserts. I've heard these are pretty dialed
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Old 04-23-2008, 09:38 AM   #6650
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Originally Posted by sleek the elite View Post
The instructions call for loctiting the motor screws with the included loctite, which I've done, but also spraying the screws with motor spray, which I didn't do.

The screws seem to be impossible to back out now. Any suggestions on getting them out ? and does spraying them first stop this from happening or do you just not loctite them at all (I only put a tiny amount on) ?
Loctite in a kit is red loctite (strong), don't use it. Use blue loctite.

Try to heat up screws, for example by high power soldering iron (100W or more). Spraying for cleaning, it's for better grip.
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Old 04-23-2008, 10:23 AM   #6651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by air8 View Post
Try to dremel a slot in the head of the screws. I had a RTR once upon a time with the two aluminum shoe setup and after a gallon of use almost everything was siezed together. I had to cut the clutch spring screws in half and use pliers to twist/remove them out the front and then push the other half out the back of the flywheel. Also some have been able to grab the head of the screw with a set of pliers and twist/remove. Good Luck.

When going back with the clutch pins use a small amount of loctite and don't overtighten the screws. Snug the screw and maybe go 1/8 turn more.

slot didnt work
time to go cut crazy hahahaa

i will probably get a whole new clutch set up to be honest along with the spur gear too

long wear shoes with silver springs all around sound good????
the previous owner here had aluminum shoes with silver springs
all around it looks like
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Old 04-23-2008, 11:42 AM   #6652
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Originally Posted by mackyrocks View Post
Hey,

I have an 8ight and so far loved it for the half of season I raced it. Everyone except me has sold their 8ight's at my home track, and most people are telling me to get a Jammin or Kyosho because they are easier to drive, durable and more people will have them. Or get the RC8 because it's a forgiving car. I really don't want to go through the hassle of a new buggy, and honestly never thought there was any wrong with my 8ight. I've only had the occasional problem from me having a brain fart and the car so far has not broken.

Are their arguments right or did they not give the car enough time?

Thanks,

Zach
The 8ight requires the driver to be very patient and very easy on the car. Although I'm sure anybody could tune any car close to how they want it to feel, the 8ight obviously favors this type of driving style.

Let me put it this way: last Sunday was the season opener at a track a few hours away from us. During qualifying I drove very relaxed, rarely went full throttle and was very easy on the steering. I TQ'ed over a field of 65 or so other cars, even against Losi/Kyosho/other manufacturers factory drivers. (I'm only a privateer)

During the main I found I had to make up alot of time and started really pushing the car. Full throttle, flicking the wheel on the radio all the way, that kind of stuff. I fell to the back of the pack quickly and got so frustrated I pulled the car off the track. I think I finished 11th overall.

The point is, again, that you need to be relaxed and in control of this car, rather than "fight" against it which is what some people find with cars such as the Kyosho, Mugen, Jammin etc.

I don't think the guys you mentioned gave the car enough time, though.
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Old 04-23-2008, 02:45 PM   #6653
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for the airfilters, it it better to oil both the inner and the outer or just the inner?
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Old 04-23-2008, 02:56 PM   #6654
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both
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Old 04-23-2008, 03:31 PM   #6655
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for the airfilters, it it better to oil both the inner and the outer or just the inner?

i do just the inner.
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Old 04-23-2008, 08:07 PM   #6656
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I oil the inner w/ foam filter oil and the outer w/ a light oil like after run (mystery oil). Outer is squeezed out... I replace the outer after every qual. and the inner is spotless...
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Old 04-23-2008, 11:37 PM   #6657
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My Soldering Iron wasn't hot enough, but I managed to get them using the heat gun
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Old 04-24-2008, 01:19 AM   #6658
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Be careful, don't melt any plastic parts on the chassis. Soldering iron makes more concentrated heat up, heat gun makes wider heat up.

You can try to place couple drops of acetone in each hole from engine side and seal them by scotch. Wait several hours and try to screw out.

Last edited by vlad_vy; 04-24-2008 at 01:31 AM.
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Old 04-24-2008, 09:57 AM   #6659
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Hey guys ! I had a real quick question about my new LOSI 8 . Just got a brand new car a couple days ago " this is my 1st Losi " and the rear diff ring and pinion are real tight . Is this normal ? I'm thinking it's shimmed a little tight from the factory when they are new so when it breaks in it is just right ? Have you guys found this too on your cars ? All the actual diffs are silky smooth but just the ring and pinionin the rear are real tight . Put about an hour run time on the car last night at an indoor nitro track and the car is flat out AWSOME !!!!! Thanks in advance for the help ...DAVE
I have the same issue as above on my brand new 8T race roller. It seems like there are quite a few people with the same issue, but no real resolution. Somebody mentioned sanding down the bearing inserts, but not sure (a) whether to do both the rear bearing inserts, (b) how much to sand off and (c) why I should have to be sanding a new car. Some people said it's normal but it sounds and feels like the diff and pinion gears are just not meshing up right at all. Clunky sound and feel. Not just the sound of new gears on new gears.

Also, I have tried the aluminum replacement bearing inserts but they make it even worse.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 04-24-2008, 10:18 AM   #6660
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The pinion coupler from the rear center driveshaft needs to be moved as far back as possible on the pinion shaft. The coupler has a little raised portion that is supposed to ride near the bearing for the rear pinion. The rear diff needs to be taken out so you can push the pinion gear forward and then attach the pinion coupler to the pinion shaft from the outside of the diff case. It doesn't need to be smashed against the bearing.....it just needs to be up against the bearing.


Also if these are new vehicles run them for several tanks and they will free up. This question is brought up about every two weeks on this thread. if you read back a few pages you will see how many times it gets asked. LOL. So you don't have anything to worry about. Enjoy the truck.
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