Losi 8ight building and setup
#6616
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Stock on the Losi diff cases is 43/13 = 3.308/1 ratio. 8T = 43/10 = 4.3/1
Stock input ratio is a 48 spur to 13 clutch bell = 3.692/1 ratio.
The stock overall is 12.21.
With my 47/18 in the center I'm at 11.22 to one.
You would not think so, but it hits very hard. It does not break the wheels loose and the fuel efficiency is very good.
Hardly any throttle input needed to do the work.
The point is a lot of companies are going to this. I was just wondering if anyone else has tried it on the 8ight.
The trouble is I can't get a large Losi Clutch bell. 17 and 18 tooth preferrably. Would also like to have a 46 and 45 tooth spur.
Maybe in production run a 43/11 in the gear boxes??
There is a reason the AE car looks so athletic and hit hard comming out of the corner.
TEX
Stock input ratio is a 48 spur to 13 clutch bell = 3.692/1 ratio.
The stock overall is 12.21.
With my 47/18 in the center I'm at 11.22 to one.
You would not think so, but it hits very hard. It does not break the wheels loose and the fuel efficiency is very good.
Hardly any throttle input needed to do the work.
The point is a lot of companies are going to this. I was just wondering if anyone else has tried it on the 8ight.
The trouble is I can't get a large Losi Clutch bell. 17 and 18 tooth preferrably. Would also like to have a 46 and 45 tooth spur.
Maybe in production run a 43/11 in the gear boxes??
There is a reason the AE car looks so athletic and hit hard comming out of the corner.
TEX
#6617
Hey guys, I have read though a majority of this thread and have not seen much about a problem I am having.
I noticed last night at the track that my front gearbox cover screw holes were stripped out where the bottom of the front shock tower connects to it.
I have a new case to install and was thinking of putting a very thin layer of shoe goo behind the shock tower where it makes contact with the case and also shoe goo the screws through the shock tower into the case.
Does this sound like a good idea or have you guys found something else to work better?
Thanks a lot
I noticed last night at the track that my front gearbox cover screw holes were stripped out where the bottom of the front shock tower connects to it.
I have a new case to install and was thinking of putting a very thin layer of shoe goo behind the shock tower where it makes contact with the case and also shoe goo the screws through the shock tower into the case.
Does this sound like a good idea or have you guys found something else to work better?
Thanks a lot
#6618
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Hey guys, I have read though a majority of this thread and have not seen much about a problem I am having.
I noticed last night at the track that my front gearbox cover screw holes were stripped out where the bottom of the front shock tower connects to it.
I have a new case to install and was thinking of putting a very thin layer of shoe goo behind the shock tower where it makes contact with the case and also shoe goo the screws through the shock tower into the case.
Does this sound like a good idea or have you guys found something else to work better?
Thanks a lot
I noticed last night at the track that my front gearbox cover screw holes were stripped out where the bottom of the front shock tower connects to it.
I have a new case to install and was thinking of putting a very thin layer of shoe goo behind the shock tower where it makes contact with the case and also shoe goo the screws through the shock tower into the case.
Does this sound like a good idea or have you guys found something else to work better?
Thanks a lot
Another tip you can try: take a toothpick and some CA glue and work a little CA into the hole where the screw goes; make sure you get it evenly distributed. Let dry. Voila: just re-insert screws and you have brand new threads.
#6619
Some of the tower mount screw holes can be captured on the other side with a Nut...Screw the shoo goo and Bolt that sucker to the diff case.
#6620
Tech Champion
iTrader: (7)
Looks like I have the new tank blues. Purchased a new tank for no other reason than to get those "rare" bolt on fuel line clips. So now my engine keeps flaming out and it's hard to start again. Lots of air bubbles coming from somewhere. It's frustrating cause yesterday I had a good shot at winning a local race but under race conditions it wouldn't run for more than a couple minutes.
I'll check the tank and fuel lines tonight. Maybe it broke already or something. When plugging the pipe to prime the engines the fuel would start to move towards the engine and then just go back in the tank. There is a lot of stuff to check but this was my only change from last weekend to yesterday.
I'll check the tank and fuel lines tonight. Maybe it broke already or something. When plugging the pipe to prime the engines the fuel would start to move towards the engine and then just go back in the tank. There is a lot of stuff to check but this was my only change from last weekend to yesterday.
#6622
Hey guys ! I had a real quick question about my new LOSI 8 . Just got a brand new car a couple days ago " this is my 1st Losi " and the rear diff ring and pinion are real tight . Is this normal ? I'm thinking it's shimmed a little tight from the factory when they are new so when it breaks in it is just right ? Have you guys found this too on your cars ? All the actual diffs are silky smooth but just the ring and pinionin the rear are real tight . Put about an hour run time on the car last night at an indoor nitro track and the car is flat out AWSOME !!!!! Thanks in advance for the help ...DAVE
#6623
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Billy Maze (i think that is right) does the majic putty thing on TV. He says it stops all kinds of leaks. I can tell you it does work on Losi fuel tanks. I water tested mine. Mixed up some of this putty from TV and put it on. It has beeen flawless ever since. I did not believe it but it does work.
The Nirto does not bother it at all.
TEX
The Nirto does not bother it at all.
TEX
#6624
Tech Champion
iTrader: (7)
Check out the picture in the link. When the 8T RR came out last year it came with these fuel line clips. Now i think the buggy kit and roller come with them also. Not sure though. But the RTR B and T don't come with these clips. My tank is original from Nov. '06 so it didn't come with the clips. And 1 1/2 years on a fuel tank deserves a replacement. LOL.
I first put the tank on yesterday and haven't done any testing on it. Today I'll be cleaning the car up and the tank check is first. GRRR. IDK. I'll see in a bit what I find out. Hoping the tank is the prob and not the engine. I blew two glow plugs in one afternoon which is very unusual. Normally get lots and lots of runtime on the glow plugs.
Hey guys ! I had a real quick question about my new LOSI 8 . Just got a brand new car a couple days ago " this is my 1st Losi " and the rear diff ring and pinion are real tight . Is this normal ? I'm thinking it's shimmed a little tight from the factory when they are new so when it breaks in it is just right ? Have you guys found this too on your cars ? All the actual diffs are silky smooth but just the ring and pinionin the rear are real tight . Put about an hour run time on the car last night at an indoor nitro track and the car is flat out AWSOME !!!!! Thanks in advance for the help ...DAVE
#6625
Billy Maze (i think that is right) does the majic putty thing on TV. He says it stops all kinds of leaks. I can tell you it does work on Losi fuel tanks. I water tested mine. Mixed up some of this putty from TV and put it on. It has beeen flawless ever since. I did not believe it but it does work.
The Nirto does not bother it at all.
TEX
The Nirto does not bother it at all.
TEX
and u have done a Soak test already to confirm this ?...Nitro eats away at 99% of products...it may appear to be sealed..but in reality the nitro is Eating away at the product from the Inside out...Ive seen JB weld do it..so i doubt the magic putty will be much different....after all its a Mixable epoxy...and Dosent claim to be anywhat Fuel proof.
#6626
Any options for replacing the stock Losi fuel tank for something w/o the clunker thing inside?
Also, ran the buggy for the first time today and the clutch bearings let go half way through my main! I am very cautious w/ spacing/shimming/mesh so was wondering is the stock Losi metal shiel bearings are just junk? Or is there some other factor I am over looking?
Also, ran the buggy for the first time today and the clutch bearings let go half way through my main! I am very cautious w/ spacing/shimming/mesh so was wondering is the stock Losi metal shiel bearings are just junk? Or is there some other factor I am over looking?
#6627
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
I have tank tested it. It has been holding for about 6 months now. I also have a new one in case this one gives me problems. I thought it did the other day but I found it was a motor bearing. Good soo far. I'll let you know if I find anything else.
You want the clunker in your tank. I have seen many a Losi over on the lid for an unusually long time. They still run fine if you have the clunker set right. All of the other cars fall short in this department IMO. You do have to keep an eye on it though. If the hose gets pushed in too far or pulled out, there can be issues.
TEX
You want the clunker in your tank. I have seen many a Losi over on the lid for an unusually long time. They still run fine if you have the clunker set right. All of the other cars fall short in this department IMO. You do have to keep an eye on it though. If the hose gets pushed in too far or pulled out, there can be issues.
TEX
#6628
Tech Champion
iTrader: (7)
The Fuel Tank was NOT my problem. My Rossi N21B ate the con rod bushing. It came out in four pieces. Ooops. LOL. So I still have no major issues with this buggy. Keeps on kicking a** and I get faster each time out. LOL. Loving it. Now I just need another engine. Maybe it's time to get one of them GRP engines. Huh, Huh. I don't think so...unless someone knows about a half price blowout sale or something. J/K. I really liked this engine and I can't repair it for less than the price of a new one, but a new one would probably last the same amount of time before it suffered the same problems.