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Old 04-17-2008, 09:57 AM   #6601
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Originally Posted by radio_car_racer View Post
Any Tips?

for keeping the small screw that holds the piston to the shock shaft from coming undone.

Need to be able to remove it also so you can change the piston if need be.
I can swap pistons at the track and have them not come off. Here is how I keep them secure.
1. clean the screw and threaded hole in the piston off with motor cleaner.
2. thread the screw threw the hole of the piston.
3. put locktite on the shock shaft hole.
4. screw the piston to the shock shaft and I normally use the piston screw to put the rod ends on the shock.
havent had a piston come loose on my yet.
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Old 04-17-2008, 10:06 AM   #6602
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hey i got a retarted question. after a long stint in electric racing I got an 8ight. Everything is going great except im haveing a problem with my brakes, everytime i hit the brakes I stall the engine, i have been screwing with the linkage and my endpoints , trim settings and cannot get it. I know there is a simple solution , any help here?
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Old 04-17-2008, 10:15 AM   #6603
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hey i got a retarted question. after a long stint in electric racing I got an 8ight. Everything is going great except im haveing a problem with my brakes, everytime i hit the brakes I stall the engine, i have been screwing with the linkage and my endpoints , trim settings and cannot get it. I know there is a simple solution , any help here?
Most common cause of this is using the radio (throttle servo) adjustments to set the idle instead of the idle stop screw on the carb (which you've already said you're doing).

When you put on the brakes you are actually closing the throttle further than your idle point.
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Old 04-17-2008, 10:57 AM   #6604
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Most common cause of this is using the radio (throttle servo) adjustments to set the idle instead of the idle stop screw on the carb (which you've already said you're doing).

When you put on the brakes you are actually closing the throttle further than your idle point.
what he said.

Remove the air filter from your car and look down the throat of the carb. Remove the carb insert if there is one and set the idle gap to arround 1mm. put the insert back in and reset your throtal epa's and trims. adjust the throtal lingage so the carb it fully closed at netural (this will be from the spring tension on the throtal side of the servo horn). then pull full throtal you only need the carb to open to where you no longer see the slider in the carb throat. Then put your air filter back on and go run.
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Old 04-17-2008, 11:01 AM   #6605
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Check the clutch too........
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Old 04-17-2008, 11:18 AM   #6606
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Originally Posted by R40Victim View Post
The first few times you hit large jumps, it will crack. The 8ight is designed to flex. I ended up elongating the mounting holes in my body so it won't rip it.
Thanks for the info. My E-CRT.5 (40mm longer than stock) rips the body mount holes badly, but I thought it was just from landing upside down. Maybe I need the aluminum chassis braces or rig up some sort of turnbuckle top deck.

As for the 8ight...I was under the impression that it was overly stiff in the chassis and that's what made it skittish on bumpy tracks. I was planning on grinding my chassis to match the new TFT 8ight chassis. Is it that the 8ight flexes lengthwise, but not laterally, and that's the reason for the new TFT?
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Old 04-17-2008, 08:12 PM   #6607
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Has anyone here tried the gearing ratios a lot of the other companies are going to? They are running truck gears in their front and rear with a different gear set in the center.
Right now I'm running basicly the same ratio as the Associated guys. 11.22/1 with 18 - 47 in the center.
Let me know if you guys have tried it.
TEX
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Old 04-17-2008, 08:14 PM   #6608
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unless you are running on a track with a sick blue grove i don't think changeing the buggy gears out for truggy gears would help any. The buggy accelerates well enought as it is why the need to change it. Any more acceleration and you will just be spinning the tires more.
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Old 04-17-2008, 08:52 PM   #6609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tex1 View Post
Has anyone here tried the gearing ratios a lot of the other companies are going to? They are running truck gears in their front and rear with a different gear set in the center.
Right now I'm running basicly the same ratio as the Associated guys. 11.22/1 with 18 - 47 in the center.
Let me know if you guys have tried it.
TEX
hey tex,

haven't tried it but I wouldn't mind hearing how you find it

adrian
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Old 04-17-2008, 09:31 PM   #6610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tex1 View Post
Has anyone here tried the gearing ratios a lot of the other companies are going to? They are running truck gears in their front and rear with a different gear set in the center.
Right now I'm running basicly the same ratio as the Associated guys. 11.22/1 with 18 - 47 in the center.
Let me know if you guys have tried it.
TEX
for indoor season on my el-8 i was running a 12/46 for summer im going to bump it up toa 14/46 and thats on a 2k kv motor
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Old 04-18-2008, 05:53 AM   #6611
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Red face This is what I have found.....

Changing to this ratio means you are running a taller gear. The ratio number is low but that just means the torque advantage is less where the engine turns closer to one for one against the output.
With the stock gears you run 12.21/1 ratio.
With the ratios from the truck gears the ratio is 11.22/1 which has less mechanical advantage from a dead stop.

What seems to be happening is when the car is going through the corner, the tires are rolling at a given speed (traction and angle of the corner determines this speed). For any given tire speed, the center diff is moving at a much higher velocity as compaired to the stock gearing. This means your motor does not have to work as hard when it is time to accelerate. It will hit like a sledgehammer once it is rolling.

I'm seeing a car that does not spin the tires as much from a dead stop, does not have any weired gyration during mid air corrections and has an increased top end. Due to the motor working more efficiently, my fuel milage has increased by good measure.
My 8 - 8 1/2 minute engines are now 10+ minutes easy.
My lap times are more consistant as well.

I certainly understand why all of the other companies are going to this.

Any thoughts?
TEX
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Old 04-18-2008, 06:38 AM   #6612
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if I wanted to use only 1 cnc front upright part..
which all would be the best...?

1 cnc carrier / plastic upright
or
1cnc upright / 1 plastic carrier part ??
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Old 04-18-2008, 08:58 AM   #6613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tex1 View Post
Changing to this ratio means you are running a taller gear. The ratio number is low but that just means the torque advantage is less where the engine turns closer to one for one against the output.
With the stock gears you run 12.21/1 ratio.
With the ratios from the truck gears the ratio is 11.22/1 which has less mechanical advantage from a dead stop.

What seems to be happening is when the car is going through the corner, the tires are rolling at a given speed (traction and angle of the corner determines this speed). For any given tire speed, the center diff is moving at a much higher velocity as compaired to the stock gearing. This means your motor does not have to work as hard when it is time to accelerate. It will hit like a sledgehammer once it is rolling.

I'm seeing a car that does not spin the tires as much from a dead stop, does not have any weired gyration during mid air corrections and has an increased top end. Due to the motor working more efficiently, my fuel milage has increased by good measure.
My 8 - 8 1/2 minute engines are now 10+ minutes easy.
My lap times are more consistant as well.

I certainly understand why all of the other companies are going to this.

Any thoughts?
TEX

so i am clear, (and i dont know the stock gear counts other than i am running stock with a 13 tooth bell)

you are gearing the diffs higher, front and rear, and running a smaller spur and bigger pinion....

to acheve the same ratio???

sorry for my ignorance
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Old 04-18-2008, 10:08 AM   #6614
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I think it's more like

gearing diffs : bigger main bevelgear/smaller little bevelgear
and 16T clutch bell with 44 T main gear
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Old 04-18-2008, 12:04 PM   #6615
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I found this post on undergroundRC and it sounds like a similar setup:

"truggy (8T) ring and pinion front and rear (pinion 10 teeth)(ring gear 43 teeth) stock is 13 pinion and 43 ring gear
16 tooth bell
all carbon shoes with gold springs
stock spur gear

the gear ratio puts you at 12.5 total gear ratio, in other words its like running a 12.5 clutch bell but the ring and pinion set up gives you tons of bottom, mid and top."

This interests me since I'm running the TL427 which is very torquey and I want to turn that torque into speed without sacrificing fast acceleration for jumps.
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