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Old 04-14-2008, 01:15 AM   #6556
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
Madman,
That is on the truggy correct? On both my 8ight and 8ight T, the only real wear I have found is on the front center more so than on the rest. The only reason I saw for it was because of the angle that drive line hits the center diff. Not too big of an issue to me, but if left unchecked could be a very bad thing.
Sorry I'm at work comming to the end of a 48 hours in 4 days swing so I'm getting pretty tired. Anyways I bent a CVD output drive shaft on the front of my LST2 the other day and looked the part up and it came up for the 8ight and 8ight t
Just forget that last part in my post. I may have messed the part # up or something the computer at work isn't letting me open up the parts explosion for the LST2 so i can't see what I did wrong.
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:22 AM   #6557
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Has anybody ever had the teeth on their clutch bell actually fall off during a race? This happened yesterday. I was going to replace it when I saw all the broken little teeth sitting in the chassis. Pretty bizarre if you ask me.
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:40 AM   #6558
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I have heard of that happening. No one really knows for sure what the cause was but it's generally believed to be a combination of chassis flex and too tight gear mesh. After I heard about it I backed out my mesh just a touch and never had any trouble.
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Old 04-14-2008, 08:07 AM   #6559
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Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
I have heard of that happening. No one really knows for sure what the cause was but it's generally believed to be a combination of chassis flex and too tight gear mesh. After I heard about it I backed out my mesh just a touch and never had any trouble.
had the same thing happen, and like david said, i just backed out my mesh a bit.
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Old 04-14-2008, 09:33 AM   #6560
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Originally Posted by MattP View Post
My buddy is using the stock losi engine mounts with a werks clutch. The crankshaft screw comes close to the tank but it does clear.
After i rebuild the eight i will try running the buggy with the werks clutch in it. I will keep you guys posted on how it does.
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Old 04-14-2008, 09:33 AM   #6561
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Default Hex size, front spindle

Can someone tell me what size hex driver is needed for the set screw for the front spindle pins? It's part# 6299 in the 8ight-t manual? SAE? Metric?
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Old 04-14-2008, 01:01 PM   #6562
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Originally Posted by desertbird View Post
Can someone tell me what size hex driver is needed for the set screw for the front spindle pins? It's part# 6299 in the 8ight-t manual? SAE? Metric?
i know its standard since its a losi, and i *think* it is either 5/64 or 3/32.


hope that helps
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Old 04-14-2008, 01:04 PM   #6563
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Default clutch shoes for Mach 427 - short track

I need to replace my shoes soon and want to get some input from the experienced 8ight racers out there.

I'm running the stock Mach 427 (and probably switching to the
JP-2 pipe to try to tone down some of the low end torque) with pretty much the standard set up and crime fighter tires.

My local track is pretty short, not that many jumps, and is usually a bit slippery with some loose dirt, but banked corners.

What shoes and springs would work best?

If possible, I would also like them to last.
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Old 04-14-2008, 01:14 PM   #6564
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Originally Posted by stevoreno007 View Post
I need to replace my shoes soon and want to get some input from the experienced 8ight racers out there.

I'm running the stock Mach 427 (and probably switching to the
JP-2 pipe to try to tone down some of the low end torque) with pretty much the standard set up and crime fighter tires.

My local track is pretty short, not that many jumps, and is usually a bit slippery with some loose dirt, but banked corners.

What shoes and springs would work best?

If possible, I would also like them to last.
I'd try a combo of green and black springs to calm the hit down. I drove my 8 for a short while with the Mach and did a lot to calm it down. JP-2 was my first move also. Then I tried to find lighter weight shoes but not much was available last year so I just used green springs and if it hit too much then I'd drop down to the black springs on all four shoes. Most of the time I used green and black with the King Headz 7075 shoes.
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Old 04-14-2008, 01:17 PM   #6565
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Originally Posted by stevoreno007 View Post

If possible, I would also like them to last.
Oh, try to invest in a quick change engine mount. I know the price is sort of high but if you intend to run this often you will be very happy that you can pull the engine in 45 seconds to check things over. So regular inspection and maintenance can be increased by using the quick change mount. Mostly inspection for your type of drivng and track will determine the maintenance required. Try to check your shoes after each weekend of running. You'll develop a schedule eventually.
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Old 04-14-2008, 01:22 PM   #6566
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Originally Posted by desertbird View Post
Can someone tell me what size hex driver is needed for the set screw for the front spindle pins? It's part# 6299 in the 8ight-t manual? SAE? Metric?
If these are the screws that ride inside the bushings on the lower part of the spindle carrier, then they use 3/32" hex driver. 3/32, 5/64, 3/16, .50 These four sizes are used on the Losi 8 and T. This will cover every screw as far as hex drivers go.
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Old 04-14-2008, 01:22 PM   #6567
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I have a small problem... I broke the tip of my hex driver inside the set screw that holds the pins in the wheel hex. I cant get it out I would like to save the hubs and not dermel it. I need to get it out so I can replace my hub bearings. Any ideas would be great.
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Old 04-14-2008, 01:29 PM   #6568
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Eeeew! Crappy. If I had to do this I would probably start with trying to drive the pin out with A LOT of force. The pin would be junk. But you might be able to get a hold of the set screw from the back side once the pin is out and you can take the hex off. You'd be lucky to get that out though.
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Old 04-14-2008, 01:37 PM   #6569
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Originally Posted by BRETTMASTERJ View Post
I have a small problem... I broke the tip of my hex driver inside the set screw that holds the pins in the wheel hex. I cant get it out I would like to save the hubs and not dermel it. I need to get it out so I can replace my hub bearings. Any ideas would be great.
#1. try using a magnetic screw driver to pull the tip out
#2. try tapping the wheel hex gently to knock it lose
#3. last resort use a pin punch to punch the pin out of the wheel hex then you maybe able to coax the set screw out with a bit of luck

other than that sorry

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Old 04-14-2008, 01:37 PM   #6570
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if you are able to get the pin out you will be able to pull the hex and drive shaft out. then just replace the drive shaft.
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