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Old 04-05-2008, 07:33 PM   #6511
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gotcha. I have an Aftershock that I am doing the upgrade and muggy modification. Should handle a lot better. I will replace the Diffs while I am doing all of the mods.
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Old 04-05-2008, 11:07 PM   #6512
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The Fioroni Tractive diffs are the same principle as the Xray Active diffs, and the BBF Tactyl Light II diff (which came first)
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Old 04-06-2008, 04:30 AM   #6513
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Default Losi 8ight/Mugen/Kyosho

I have just few questions for those that had different buggies as well as trugies : How would you compare Losi buggies/truggies to lets say Mugen’s and Kyosho equipment ????

I need Pro’s and Con’s


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Old 04-06-2008, 06:18 AM   #6514
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Originally Posted by rezenclowd3 View Post
The Fioroni Tractive diffs are the same principle as the Xray Active diffs, and the BBF Tactyl Light II diff (which came first)
You forgot the Terex diffs
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Old 04-06-2008, 06:43 AM   #6515
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I guess that you would have to check out the race stats. Losi 8ight has been at the top of the heap numerous times. It comes with great customer support throught Horizon hobbies. I asked myself that same question when I purchased my buggy and truggy. People to ask would be like Tex and Dommit. They both helped me a lot with tricks and tips. It is the only buggy with new technology. No e-clips and the front and rear differentials are offset which makes it rack real well. It handles like a dream. I would say that if you are planning to race anytime, I would buy the race roller and buy the electronics and engine to suit what you plan on using it for. I would say that if you dont like tearing things down and maintaining pins, clutches, and differentials this may not be the buggy for you. it is sort of high maintenance, but most of them are. I hope that this helped.
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Old 04-06-2008, 09:06 AM   #6516
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Quote:
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You forgot the Terex diffs
Nope, I didn't forget. I have never known about the Terex diffs. I will have to look for them.
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Old 04-06-2008, 09:07 AM   #6517
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I have my new LOSI diff cups, I ordered 3 new diffs from ebay..... I am taking the new diff gears and putting them in the new cups.... after this is done (i have done the center only) there is BIG TIME gear grind..... the diff is almost locked..... anyone else try these new cups ???

Thanks
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Old 04-06-2008, 10:31 AM   #6518
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Quote:
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I have my new LOSI diff cups, I ordered 3 new diffs from ebay..... I am taking the new diff gears and putting them in the new cups.... after this is done (i have done the center only) there is BIG TIME gear grind..... the diff is almost locked..... anyone else try these new cups ??? if not they will bind.

Thanks
You didn't assemble the diffs right..Check the dif and make sure the chamfered edge of all the inserts are all pointing to the outside of the cup facing away from the gears. If they are not or a couple are off they will bind.
That’s your problem I bet...
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Old 04-06-2008, 03:33 PM   #6519
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveJa View Post
I have my new LOSI diff cups, I ordered 3 new diffs from ebay..... I am taking the new diff gears and putting them in the new cups.... after this is done (i have done the center only) there is BIG TIME gear grind..... the diff is almost locked..... anyone else try these new cups ???

Thanks
Are you talking about the diff cups that have the inserts in them? If you are then you need to take the inserts to a belt sander or dremel and grind them a little bit. Basically you need to take the anodizing off of one of the sides. The first batch that losi recived had too thick of anodizing on them. The problem has been fixed.
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Old 04-06-2008, 04:20 PM   #6520
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Originally Posted by rezenclowd3 View Post
Nope, I didn't forget. I have never known about the Terex diffs. I will have to look for them.
They are the same, made in France:

http://www.sldracing.com/modules.php...howpage&pid=50
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Old 04-07-2008, 03:59 PM   #6521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckinator View Post
Are you talking about the diff cups that have the inserts in them? If you are then you need to take the inserts to a belt sander or dremel and grind them a little bit. Basically you need to take the anodizing off of one of the sides. The first batch that losi recived had too thick of anodizing on them. The problem has been fixed.
The ones he has should not have that problem..... only the first few batches were that way.... which I beleive were never put on the market.

If you purchased these at a hobby store they should be good to go.... You might have the problem that Losimadman stated... also do not run a shim between the pin and the o-ring on the outdrives.
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Old 04-07-2008, 08:25 PM   #6522
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I know this has been talked about a bunch.... and if I looked in the thread I could find it... but I need a answer soon.... and it would take a long time to find it in the thread..... so with that out of the way


clutch springs... soft to stiff ???



Thanks
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Old 04-07-2008, 08:30 PM   #6523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveJa View Post
I know this has been talked about a bunch.... and if I looked in the thread I could find it... but I need a answer soon.... and it would take a long time to find it in the thread..... so with that out of the way


clutch springs... soft to stiff ???



Thanks

Silver Gold black green...from hardest to softest.


Spring chart:

* Silver: .040 wire with 30 degree angle
* Gold: .040 wire with 25 degree angle
* Black: .036 wire with 30 degree angle
* Green: .036 wire with 25 degree angle
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Old 04-07-2008, 08:38 PM   #6524
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In the same boat as SteveJa

what are the softest to hardest shock springs?

thanks and sorry if its a question asked over and over
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Old 04-07-2008, 08:40 PM   #6525
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Actually black is the softest. The spring chart is wrong.

Hard ---------------->Soft
Silver, Gold, Green, Black
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