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Old 03-21-2008, 07:49 PM   #6421
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Has anyone tried converting the screws to metric using the RcScrewz set? how well does it fit?
I hail from a place where metric is more dominant and easier to get...

RcScrewz suck...there stainless steel Junk.....the stock screw's are Significantly better...and imo its not worth trying to convert to metric....Get a Tony's 12.9 kit and be done with it.
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Old 03-21-2008, 10:32 PM   #6422
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Something on the new Flex Tuned chassis, it's not flat,do you guys think this is correct,I have one normal chassis that is also like this.What should I do straighten it or just leave it.Doesn't make sense??

Check my mod on clutch tool
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Old 03-21-2008, 11:11 PM   #6423
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Mater: Hey man when I use to run losi's about a year ago or so, people were asking about that same issue. Well to come to find out there was no issue to begin with. The chassis is fine so just go ahead a run it. It's designed specially that way. No worries man it's fine,
Josh Kurth
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Old 03-22-2008, 04:05 AM   #6424
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losi8ight Thanks,that helps allot
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Old 03-22-2008, 06:13 PM   #6425
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RcScrewz suck...there stainless steel Junk.....the stock screw's are Significantly better...and imo its not worth trying to convert to metric....Get a Tony's 12.9 kit and be done with it.
Tony's 12.9? Where can I get that?
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Old 03-22-2008, 06:51 PM   #6426
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www.tonysscrews.com
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Old 03-22-2008, 06:51 PM   #6427
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http://www.tonysscrews.com/main.sc

Tony is on RC Tech frequently. If you have any probs just let him know. He's quick to reply.
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Old 03-22-2008, 06:52 PM   #6428
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Doh!!!! You beat me. LOL.
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Old 03-22-2008, 07:12 PM   #6429
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http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/7812

these are what you need. First run kits came with black orings, newer ones have white. The white o-rings are far better seal.
And get the aluminum shock caps... stronger.
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Old 03-22-2008, 07:22 PM   #6430
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Speaking of aluminum shock caps....
Below the shock caps there is a small gap to the shock body. I do my best to keep dirt from falling in the shock oil when removing the cap. Well, today one of my friends used a rubber balloon to cover that gap and looks to be working great. The size of the balloon makes it easy to pull over the shock cap yet tight enough that some people thought it was heat shrink. Time to head to the party store for me.
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Old 03-22-2008, 07:39 PM   #6431
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Speaking of aluminum shock caps....
Below the shock caps there is a small gap to the shock body. I do my best to keep dirt from falling in the shock oil when removing the cap. Well, today one of my friends used a rubber balloon to cover that gap and looks to be working great. The size of the balloon makes it easy to pull over the shock cap yet tight enough that some people thought it was heat shrink. Time to head to the party store for me.

Hmmm... not a bad idea. We've used "balloon animal" balloons instead of the regular (ex$pen$ive) "shock shaft condoms" for a long time. They work great! Now you found yet another use for balloons... cool!
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Old 03-22-2008, 07:53 PM   #6432
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I unscrew the caps a turn or two and then brush the threads with a tooth brush before completely removing them to prevent that (dirt in shocks).
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Old 03-22-2008, 08:03 PM   #6433
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i seal the top cap with 1211....makes for a nice seal and easily cleanable with the wipe of a finger....also easily removable with the scrape of a fingernail.
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Old 03-22-2008, 08:18 PM   #6434
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I unscrew the caps a turn or two and then brush the threads with a tooth brush before completely removing them to prevent that (dirt in shocks).
That's exactly what I have been doing. Unscrew a turn, then brush, unscrew a turn then brush.
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Old 03-23-2008, 10:06 AM   #6435
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I noticed this too. Also if you screwed the cap all the way down it will cut the seal and make it leak. I took all of my shock bodies and turned them on a lathe to take a little off the top. Now there is less than a 25% crush on the seal the bladder makes. It works perfect when you tighten it all the way down. I also use the black orings that come when you buy shock seal set. I just wrap them around the base of the shock cap threads and they work very well for providing a little extra tension on the shock threads.
I need to take a picture of this and send it to the Drake.
He's busy kicking a$$ at the Neo Race over in England.
Later,
TEX
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