indaway

From what I have been told, they are just working on refining the car. I have talked to Todd Hodge about it. It sounds like they are just trying to improve the current design.

dsl

iTrader: (1)

HELP !

I got a new 8 buggy roller. Whenever I roll it back and forth with my hands, the rear diff is making a grinding noise.

I ran the buggy for 1 race day figuring it needed to be broken in, but after running about 6 tanks, the problem was still there.

I took the rear diff out of the case and it spins freely, but when I put it back in the plastic case it grinds once the screws are tightened up. If I don't tighten the screws, it doesn't grind.

A friend of mine went through the same problem and it was resolved when he replaced the new plastic rear diff housing.

I couldn't find a solution to this problem by shimming. Any suggestions?

tex1

iTrader: (4)

I have seen some diff cases that were molded wrong and the side grooves were shrunk up and not in the proper location. Get you a new rear diff housing and you should be fine. If that one fixes the problem then be sure to send your original back to Losi. They will send you a new one as back up.
Hope you get it resolved.
TEX

rescuemann

Has anyone had problems with the pins working their way out of the CV Shafts toward the outdrives? I have had this problem on both my truggy and buggy. I know the ones in the hubs have a set screw. I have only had it for about a month. Horizon sent me a set for the t and b. good customer suport, but I want to find out if there is something I can do to resolve the issue.

W.E.D.Jim

iTrader: (17)

Some TL bodies for you guys to check out, !

Thanks,
Jim
W.E.D.

spiti58

iTrader: (1)

those look awesome, great job w.e.d

rescuemann

Those are awesome. How do I get one

LosiMadMan

iTrader: (2)

Get a Bone saver and a set of Mugen pins and replace the pins in the CV Shafts.


http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/4355

Out of stock though!!

air8

iTrader: (7)

Also if you're referring to the F/R pinion CVDs then you can clean the threads and CV shaft of all dirt. Apply blue loctite to the threads. Then either put heatshrink on or GMK condoms. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/13168 Some people have had the CV cross pins work through using the heatshrink method. But I've not had a problem. I use the heatshrink method.

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

I put heat shrink on mine a little over a year ago, no problems.

abailey21

iTrader: (37)

As I'm sure I could search in here hours upon hours and find nothing so I'll ask the question that everyone can prolly answer in like 2 seconds...

I've heard, and seen now, that the stock shocks on the RTR 8 were pretty much leaking messes. Do they just need a good rebuild with new boots, o-rings-spacers and all the other seals, or was there some really easy super awesome fix that was found?

I'm asking cause I just picked up a used and I was told by the previous owner that "It's and original RTR and the shocks are crap" it has been obvious because the 4 puddles of oil in the bottom of the box.

So I need quick fix, and cost effective ideas on getting this into a reputable roller again.

Nik

iTrader: (1)

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/7812

these are what you need. First run kits came with black orings, newer ones have white. The white o-rings are far better seal.

abailey21

iTrader: (37)

thank you much man

abailey21

iTrader: (37)

As luck would have it, the dude I bought it from had a pack of the white
o-rings, pretty sweet I must say....simple fix, the way RC should be

mathsinstrument

iTrader: (4)

Has anyone tried converting the screws to metric using the RcScrewz set? how well does it fit?
I hail from a place where metric is more dominant and easier to get...